Men’s watches are timepieces that reflect the style and expertise of the brands. The best men’s watch brands include luxury automatic, mechanical and quartz watches to suit all budgets.
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Best watch brands for men: from the affordable brands to the top luxury watch brands
Swiss watches, with prestigious brands such as Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet and Omega, are often considered the pinnacle of high-end men’s watches, offering quality, refined design and advanced watchmaking technology.
However, other non-Swiss brands, such as A. Lange & Söhne, Jaeger-LeCoultre and Seiko, also offer exceptional timepieces for watch lovers. Sports watches, including diving watches, chronographs and aviators, are popular with men, with brands such as TAG Heuer, Breitling and IWC offering robust, reliable and elegant models.
Vintage watch collectors and enthusiasts appreciate brands such as Zenith, Longines and Tudor, offering models inspired by iconic designs of the past and modern technologies.
In this article, we’ll explore some of the best men’s watch brands, highlighting their features, history and flagship models, to help collectors, enthusiasts and those in search of the perfect watch discover the must-have brands.
PS: for the moment, we haven’t yet referenced young brands or micro-brands, but we will do so as we update the site
Best watch brands: from the best affordable watch brands to the most prestigious luxury watch brands
Entry-level :
Casio: Reliable digital innovations
Timex: Affordable, classic durability
Orient: Japanese mechanical watchmaking
LIP : French elegance and history
Seiko: Japanese precision and versatility
Citizen: Sustainable, ecological elegance
Yema : French sports watches
Bulova: American design and precision
Victorinox: Rugged Swiss functionality
Luminox: Luminous military watches
Invicta
Mid-range :
Tissot: Swiss style and accessible performance
Certina: Swiss robustness and precision
Hamilton: the fusion of American and Swiss innovation
Longines: Swiss elegance and sporting heritage
Oris: Swiss independent mechanical watches
Mido: Swiss watchmaking inspired by architecture
Glycine : military and aeronautical watchmaking tradition
Sinn : technical and reliable German watches
Junghans: modern German design and precision
Steinhart: affordable Swiss watches
Stowa: timeless and precise German classics
Squale: renowned Italian divers
Eterna : Swiss innovation and rich heritage
Edox : sporty and elegant Swiss watches
Maurice Lacroix: contemporary and elegant Swiss design
Frédérique Constant: the Swiss watchmaker of accessible luxury
Raymond Weil: Swiss passion for music and watchmaking
Meistersinger: German watches with singular design
Laco: Authentic German pilot’s watches
Baume&Mercier : Swiss elegance and quality since 1830
Ebel : Swiss architecture and iconic designs
Eberhard : Timeless Swiss sports watches
Fortis: Swiss watchmaking for space exploration
Movado: Avant-garde style and Swiss innovation
Nivada Grenchen: Renewed vintage Swiss watches
Doxa : Iconic Swiss diving watches
Raketa : Russian watchmaking and the conquest of space
Vulcain: Innovative Swiss watches with mechanical alarm clock
Nomos
Rado
Montblanc
High-end watches
Breitling: the aeronautical spirit in luxury watchmaking
Tag Heuer: the fusion of precision and motorsport
Omega: watches for the conquest of space
Tudor : bold design and Swiss quality
Zenith: watchmaking innovation and elegance
IWC : reliable, refined watches
Panerai: Italian diving watches
Chopard: where jewelry and mechanics meet
Jaeger-Lecoultre : Unique mechanical complications
Cartier: Timelessly elegant watches
Ulysse Nardin: Top-of-the-range nautical watches
Rolex: Prestige and quality watches
Bell&Ross: Robust professional watches
Blancpain: Watchmaking expertise since 1735
Bréguet : Classic and refined watches
Bulgari: Italian watches with Roman design
Glasshütte
Universal Genève
Luxury
Audemars Piguet: Iconic luxury watches
Patek Philippe: Timeless watchmaking masterpieces
Richard Mille: Avant-garde and daring watches
Jaquet-Droz: Automata and watchmaking expertise
A . Lange & Söhne: German watchmaking prestige
Laurent Ferrier: Elegant and discreet watches
Parmigiani Fleurier: Creativity and sophistication
Piaget: Ultra-fine watches and jewelry
Franck Muller: Original designs and complexity
FP Journe: Innovative and exclusive watches
Best affordable watch brands
Casio
Casio was founded in 1946 by an engineer, Tadao Kashio. He started with an electronic cigarette holder, then created a calculator in 1954. In 1957, they founded Casio Computer and launched digital watches with innovative functions that became very popular. The most famous watches are the G-Shock, short for Gravitational Shock: they are designed for intense outdoor activities for sportsmen and soldiers. Beyond the promise of being unbreakable, they offer the resistance of the 3 10s: 10-year battery life, 10-bar water resistance, and resistance to a 10-foot fall. During the development of this watch, engineer Kikuo Ibe is said to have broken more than 200 prototypes by throwing them from the 2nd floor. By 1998, Casio had developed over 200 G-Shock models and sold 19 million units. In 2017, it celebrated the shipment of the 100 millionth G-Shock. Casio is also known for its Edifice line: a more elegant, dressy variation of the G-Shock line
Find out more about Casio watches
Timex
Timex, the flagship of American watchmaking, democratized watchmaking as early as 1850. The « Yankee » watch became the symbol of accessibility, and the American army ordered them for its soldiers. Waterbury, the ancestor of Timex, survived the Great Depression and created the Mickey Mouse watch. It became Timex after the war, and dominated the market with iconic models such as the Ironman Triathlon. Timex watches, accessible and popular, continue the tradition today by collaborating with fashion brands such as Nautica, Guess and Versace.
Timex watches remain popular thanks to their very low prices and are abundant on the vintage market.
Orient
Orient Watch, a Japanese company specializing in automatic watches, was founded in 1901. After various evolutions, it became Orient Watch Company in 1951 and launched the first Orient Star model. Orient developed various ranges, including the Royal Orient in 1960. Seiko Epson became majority shareholder in 2001 and absorbed Orient in 2017. Orient is appreciated for its affordable, high-quality watches. The high-end Orient Star sub-brand offers superior quality and craftsmanship at attractive prices. The Orient Bambino, with its elegant 60s design, is an ideal everyday watch for leisure and business, barely more expensive than a typical Seiko 5.
LIP
LIP, a French watchmaker founded in 1867 in Besançon by Emmanuel Lipmann, has grown from a repair workshop to a company of national importance. Specializing in watch movements, the company launched its first pocket watch in 1908. Surviving wars and crises, LIP became France’s leading watch manufacturer, with 360 employees and 40,000 watches produced annually by 1923. The Type 10 aeronautical watch was created in 1935.
After the Second World War, production reached 50,000 watches a year. LIP announced an electronic watch in 1952 and launched the famous Nautic-Ski in 1967. Despite investment by the Swiss group Ebauches S.A. in 1970, LIP filed for bankruptcy in 1973. Several attempts at revival failed, and the brand was sold several times before being acquired by Jean-Claude Sensemat in 1990. Today, LIP watches are prized by design and vintage enthusiasts, a testament to the rich heritage of this iconic brand.
Seiko
Founded in 1881, Seiko has become a major player in the world of watchmaking. A pioneer in innovation, it launched the first quartz watch, the Astron, in 1969, and developed LCD and multifunction watches. In 1980, the Seiko Kinetic range, combining mechanical and quartz, was launched. The Grand Seiko range, created in 1960, rivals the best Swiss watches in terms of haute horlogerie. The Prospex collection brings together the brand’s professional diving watches. Seiko offers a wide range of watches at a variety of prices, with models from the entry-level Seiko 5 to the luxury Grand Seiko.
Citizen
Founded in 1930, Citizen has Swiss roots, thanks to a partnership between Japanese and Swiss investors and Swiss watchmaker Rodolphe Schmid. Growth continued until the Second World War, then resumed under the leadership of Eiichi Yamada and the Citizen Trading Company, which established links with Bulova to penetrate the American market. Citizen is renowned for its innovation, notably with Eco-Drive technology in 1976, which converts light into energy, and with Miyota, Citizen’s movement manufacturer, which developed a Quartz movement accurate to /- 1 second per year. Emblematic models include the Promaster Diver and Eco-Drive watches.
Bulova
Bulova, founded in 1875 in New York, began with pocket watches and then classic watches. It gained notoriety for its innovative advertising campaigns, including the first TV campaign in 1941. In 1927, it launched 5,000 Lone Eagle watches, which sold out in 3 days, following the success of Lindbergh’s transatlantic crossing. In the 60s, Bulova introduces the Accutron, the first electronic watch. Despite the quartz crisis in 1977, Bulova survives and is acquired by Citizen in 2008. Among its most famous models are re-editions of the 1972 Devil Diver Oceanographer, the C Chronograph and the Lunar Pilot Chronograph, Armstrong’s backup watch during the Apollo 15 expedition.
Victorinox
Victorinox, the famous Swiss knife manufacturer, diversified into watches in 1989. The sturdy, reliable Swiss Army watches propelled the brand into the international arena. Today, Victorinox offers around 160 models in the Active, Classic and Professional ranges. Although criticized by some purists, these hard-wearing watches are excellent everyday companions.
Luminox
Luminox, founded in California in 1989, distinguishes itself through its sporty, robust watches featuring proprietary « always visible » technology. The watches use tritium inserts for long-lasting luminescence. Launched in 1994, the Luminox 2001 Original Navy Seal has become iconic. In 2006, the Swiss brand Mondaine acquired 50% of Luminox, helping to expand distribution. Luminox watches, appreciated worldwide, are divided into four lines: « Sea », « Air », « Land » and « Space ». Made in Switzerland, they are equipped with quartz and mechanical movements. Luminox offers watches that are durable, affordable and ideal for those looking for a product made in the USA.
Invicta
Invicta is a Swiss watch company with a unique history in the industry. It claims to be established in 1837, but there is little evidence to support this claim. The company is now headquartered in Hollywood, Florida, and aims to produce affordable watches with bold, unique designs. Watch quality can vary by price range and collection, but the company offers a wide variety of options for different needs and budgets, made in Switzerland, Japan and China, with quartz and mechanical movements. The Pro Diver collection is one of the most popular and best-loved. The brand is much maligned by purists for its unabashed homage to the past.
Mid-range men’s watch brands
Tissot
Founded in 1853, Tissot has established itself as a renowned Swiss watchmaking company. Following a merger with Omega, Tissot targeted the affordable market, making history with innovations such as the Astrolon. Integrated into the Swatch Group in 1983, Tissot today offers a wide range of quality watches, including the Heritage Visodate and the Chemin des Tourelles. True to its motto « Innovators by tradition », Tissot continues to surprise with watches like the T-Touch, the pioneer of the sapphire touchscreen.
Certina
Certina, founded in 1888 by the Kurth brothers, developed into a specialist in shock-resistant watches with the DS concept in 1959. The brand joined the General Watch Co in 1971, then the SMH (Swatch) group in 1983, and positioned itself as a specialist in sports watches. Certina watches are renowned for their durability and resistance to shock, water and scratches. The current range comprises four main collections: Sport, Aqua, Urban and Heritage.
Hamilton
Hamilton is a Swiss watch company founded in the USA in 1892. It has become the market leader in the USA, with a 56% market share. Hamilton’s first series of pocket watches were popular with the public. In 1917, Hamilton launched its first wristwatch for Americans fighting in the First World War. During the Second World War, Hamilton produced watches for the United States and the Allied Forces. In 1957, the company unveiled the first electromechanical wristwatch. In 1971, Hamilton was acquired by SSIH, also known as the Swatch Group. Despite this, Hamilton has remained a leader in the watch industry and its watches have been used in numerous films. The most popular models in the Hamilton range include the Khaki and Ventura.
Oris
Oris, one of the last independent Swiss watch brands, was founded in 1902 as Lohner & Nägelin in Hölstein. It specialized in the manufacture of in-house movements. Despite a Swiss law in the 1930s limiting its production, Oris improved its movements to obtain official chronometer certificates in 1927. The company was taken over by the ASUAG group in 1971, then became independent again in 1982 through a management buyout. Today, Oris focuses on traditional mechanics and environmental issues. Its most famous watches belong to the Artelier, Aquis and Big Crown collections. Oris also collaborates with the Williams motorsport team. The brand offers a wide selection of vintage and modern watches, deserving a place in any watch collection.
Longines
Founded in 1832, Longines is a historic watch brand specializing in pocket watches and chronographs. Ernest Francillon, nephew of founder Auguste Agassiz, modernized production and built a factory to develop in-house movements. Longines became famous for its quality watches, particularly in aviation and sports. In 1971, the company joined the ASUAG group, then merged with SMH (Swatch group) in the 1980s. Today, Longines offers iconic collections such as the Flagship, HydroConquest and Conquest. Despite less striking production under the Swatch era, Longines’ vintage models remain highly sought-after and affordable
Mido
Mido, founded in 1918, initially specialized in women’s watches before introducing innovative men’s models such as the Multi-Fort and Commander. After the quartz crisis, Mido joined the Swatch Group and focused on affordable precision. Today, although the brand uses mainly ETA movements, it ranks among the top 10 manufacturers of COSC-certified chronometers. Mido offers excellent value for money with elegant models such as the Baroncelli Heritage and the Ocean Star diver’s watch. In short, Mido is a historic brand offering quality timepieces at affordable prices, especially for lovers of vintage style and diving watches.
Glycine
Glycine, a Swiss watch brand founded in 1914 by Eugène Meylan, initially specialized in small movements for ladies’ watches. Faced with the growth of the men’s market, Glycine turned to chronometers for men. The Airman, an emblematic model from 1953, was able to track two time zones, a year ahead of Rolex’s GMT Master. The 1970s saw Glycine confronted with the quartz crisis. In 2016, the Invicta Watch Group acquired it, aiming to optimize international marketing and distribution. Glycine now offers a variety of models with rugged military styling.
Sinn
Sinn Spezialuhren, founded in 1961 by Helmut Sinn, focuses on technical and specialized watches. In 1985, the brand joined the circle of space brands. Following Lothar Schmidt’s acquisition of the company in 1994, Sinn developed watches featuring innovative technologies such as argon gas filling and copper sulfate capsules. Among its flagship models, the Sinn U1, made from a type of steel used for submarines, offers exceptional water resistance to 1,000 meters. Today, Sinn offers robust watches ideal for everyday use, with ETA calibers and stable value on the pre-owned and vintage watch market.
Junghans
Founded in 1861, German watchmaker Junghans made its name through industrialization and landmark collaborations, notably with designer Max Bill. Despite changes of ownership and financial difficulties, the company has prospered through renewal. Today, Junghans is famous for its high-quality Bauhaus watches, such as the iconic Chronoscope model, and continues to appeal to watch enthusiasts.
Steinhart
German manufacturer Steinhart is renowned for its affordable tribute watches, often inspired by Rolex. Founded in Augsburg in 2001, the brand offers six collections of diving, pilot, marine, chronograph and limited edition watches. Steinhart watches feature quality materials, high-end finishes and Swiss movements from ETA and Sellita. Sold online without intermediaries, they are accessible at competitive prices. Assembly is carried out in Switzerland by Grovana. The most popular model, the Ocean 1, is a larger (42 mm) version of the Rolex Submariner. Steinhart is also committed to charitable causes and offers accessories to personalize its watches according to individual preferences.
Stowa
Stowa, a famous German watchmaker founded in 1927 by Walter Storz, is known for its Fliegers watches, popular with military watch enthusiasts. After many trials and tribulations, including the destruction of the Pforzheim factory in 1945 and the quartz crisis, the brand was sold to Jörg Schauer in 1996. Today, Stowa perpetuates the art of German watchmaking, drawing inspiration from its vintage military and Bauhaus designs. The company offers affordable, quality watches, as well as numerous customization options on its website. Stowa watches are renowned for their design and affordability, although vintage military models are rare and expensive.
Squale
Founded in 1946, Squale specializes in diving watches and components for Swiss companies. Renowned for its quality, the brand has collaborated with companies such as Blancpain, Tag Heuer and Doxa. Squale has also developed watches resistant to depths of up to 1,000 meters. Despite economic difficulties linked to the quartz crisis, the company was relaunched in 2010 by its Italian importers. Now based in Milan, Squale is renowned for its quality diving watches, such as the 1521, 2002 and Giramondo models, offering excellent value for money and a vintage charm appreciated by enthusiasts.
Edox
Edox is a Swiss watch company founded in 1884 by Christian Ruefly-Flury in Biel-Bienne. It began by manufacturing pocket watches, but later specialized in robust watches for divers and travelers. Famous models such as the Delfin, Hydrosub and Geoscope were launched, all with innovative features for shock protection, water resistance and ruggedness. In 1983, the company was bought by Victor Strambini, who moved it to Les Genevez. Today, it is an independent, family-owned company that continues to develop its watch collection while offering an excellent balance between quality, finish and price.
Maurice Lacroix
Maurice Lacroix is a high-end watch brand that grew out of the Desco company, founded in 1889. The brand was created after the acquisition of Tiara and concentrated on in-house production from 1980 onwards. Now a true watch manufacturer, it offers high-quality watches with a wide range of complications. The Masterpiece collection is the flagship line, followed by the sporty Pontos and affordable Miros lines. Since 2006, Maurice Lacroix has been producing in-house movements, offering Swiss quality at affordable prices. The brand is renowned for its high-performance watches and excellent value for money.
Frederique Constant
Frederique Constant, a Swiss watchmaking company founded in 1988, is inspired by the family watchmaking tradition. It enjoyed rapid growth thanks to elegant, affordable watches. In 1992, six pieces are launched, followed by the acquisition of Alpina Watches to enter the sports watch market. In 2012, an innovative global wristwatch is launched, followed by a « Horological Smartwatch » in 2015. In 2016, Citizen acquires Frederique Constant, strengthening its brand portfolio. The current range comprises mainly elegant classic watches, with designs inspired by watchmaking tradition and complications such as moon phase and chronograph.
Raymond Weil
Raymond Weil, founded in Geneva in 1976, is a watch brand appreciated for its value for money. The company has launched several collections named after musical terms, including Amadeus, Otello and Parsifal. Managed by the Bernheim family, it has gone international, with subsidiaries in the USA, India and England. The brand offers watches for a variety of audiences, including the Freelancer series for professionals, the Maestro line combining elegance and innovation, the sporty Tango collection and the robust Parsifal. Despite its traditional designs, Raymond Weil has made a name for itself thanks to the quality of its watches and deserves to be considered, particularly in the second-hand market.
Meistersinger
Meistersinger, a German brand founded by Manfred Brassler in 2001, offers watches with a unique design based on a single hand indicating time in five-minute intervals. This concept symbolizes the importance of savoring time rather than measuring it precisely. The watches are inspired by historic clocks and incorporate complex information despite their apparent simplicity. First using ETA movements, then SH21 calibers from Synergies Horlogères, the brand has won several design awards, including the IF product design awards and the Red Dot award. Meistersinger watches combine Teutonic precision and minimalist style, offering undeniable quality and a special appeal to discerning collectors.
Laco
German watch manufacturer Laco was founded by Frieda Lacher and Ludwig Hummel in Pforzheim in 1925. The company grew rapidly, supplying pilot’s watches during the Second World War. Following several changes of ownership and the impact of the advent of quartz, Laco had to restructure. Since 2010, the brand has built on its heritage to create affordable and attractive Flieger watches, using Swiss ébauches and quality German craftsmanship. Laco is renowned for its Luftwaffe watches and modern Flieger reproductions. Vintage timepieces are highly prized by collectors, but it’s important to be wary of the counterfeits and remade dials that abound on the market.
Baume&Mercier
The result of a 1918 merger between two watchmakers, Frères Baume and Paul Mercier, the company was acquired by Piaget in 1965 and production moved to the USA. In 1948, it launched the world’s thinnest self-winding watch with date window, and quickly adopted numerous innovations: quartz and electromechanical movements.
It then joined the Richemont group in 1988 and refocused on sober, elegant mechanical watches. In 2018, the company launches its own in-house automatic movement: the Baumatic.
Best-known models? The Clifton, the Riviera and the Hampton
Montblanc
Montblanc, famous for its pens, became part of the Minerva Manufacture and moved into high-end watchmaking. Offering a varied range of watches, Montblanc combines Swiss watchmaking tradition with exceptional complications.
Among its collections, the Heritage embodies classic elegance, the Villeret impresses with its complications, the 1858 evokes vintage pilot’s watches and the Summit brings together smartwatches running Android Wear 2.0. Montblanc in-house calibers rival the most prestigious Swiss brands. Today, Montblanc creates quality chronographs at affordable prices, while vintage Minerva timepieces remain highly prized.
Ebel
Eugène Blum and his wife Alice Lévy founded Ebel, a watchmaking workshop in La Chaux-de-Fonds in 1911. The company grew by working for famous brands and producing innovative watch concepts. Ebel won the Grand Prix at the Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs in 1925 for its watch design. Charles-Eugène, the founders’ son, joined the company in 1929 and introduced strict quality controls. Ebel exports its watches under various brand names, including to the USA and for the British Royal Air Force. In 1952, the company launched its Videomatic watch with an automatic movement. Ebel was bought by Investcorp in 1994 and is now part of the Movado Group. Current models include men’s and ladies’ models, often featuring the corrugated steel bracelet that has become an integral part of Ebel timepieces.
Eberhard
Eberhard & Co is a Swiss watch manufacturer founded in 1868 in La Chaux-de-Fonds. The company prospered and by 1907 was one of the most notable Swiss watch manufacturers. It introduced its first wrist chronograph in 1919 and concentrated on the production of this type of complication. It developed an innovative chronometer in 1935 and introduced the hour counter in 1938. Its watches became increasingly popular worldwide, becoming standard equipment for some military forces. It made its debut with the famous ExtraFort chronometer in the 1950s. Recently, the company has concentrated on « large » watches and launched one of its most unusual designs, the Chrono 4. Eberhard watches are aesthetically pleasing, well-made and reasonably affordable. The company recently launched its own movement to address the high-end and luxury market. The company’s flagship model is the Extrafort, a classic chronograph with elegant vintage styling.
Fortis
Fortis, a Swiss watch manufacturer founded in 1912, launched the first self-winding watch, the Harwood Automatic, in 1926, thanks to its collaboration with John Harwood. The company developed its first chronographs in 1937 and its first water-resistant automatic watch in 1943. In 1962, the Spacematic automatic was designed for the Gemini mission. In 1994, the Cosmonauts Chronograph Automatic became the standard edition for Russian manned space missions. Despite financial difficulties in 2017 and a new owner, Philipp Jupp, Fortis continues to produce sporty, masculine, robust and professional watches, now focused on large watches.
Movado
Founded in 1881, Movado is a historic Swiss watchmaker. Innovative, it launched the Polyplan watch in 1912, as well as the Ermeto in 1926, a blend of travel clock and pocket watch. The Museum Watch, created in 1947 and integrated into New York’s MoMA, is one of the brand’s most emblematic timepieces. Movado is now focusing on affordable watches, including a Museum smartwatch. However, current production does not pay tribute to the brand’s history, despite the Museum watch remaining a design milestone.
Nivada Grenchen
Founded in 1937, Nivada is a Swiss watch brand initially known for its affordable quality watches. After the Second World War, the company flourished, offering interesting models such as the Wanderer and Depthmaster. However, the quartz crisis reduced its importance. Today, Nivada operates mainly in Mexico. A recently founded Swiss company has obtained the license to re-issue classic designs from the 1950s and 1960s, with the re-edition of the Chronomaster and Antarctic launched by Guillaume Laidet at the end of 2020. Nivada watches are undervalued and becoming increasingly rare, both vintage models and modern production. It’s important to keep an eye on them.
Nomos
Nomos Glashütte, founded in 1990, is an innovative watch brand. It has revived the historic Glashütte name with watches in a minimalist Bauhaus style. Since 2005, Nomos has been developing its own calibers, achieving 95% vertical integration. The company also collaborates with Wempe, producing high-end watches with chronometer certification. In 2013, Nomos launched a new line of high-end movements, the « Deutsche Uhrenwerke Nomos Glashütte » (DUW). Nomos watches are available for all tastes, from sporty to elegant, offering excellent value for money. The Tangente and Orion models illustrate the brand’s signature style, while the Club series offers an affordable entry into the Nomos universe
Doxa
Doxa is a Swiss watch company founded in 1889, known for its anti-magnetic watches and 8-day caliber. It was run by Jacques Nardin, the founder’s son-in-law, who focused on sports and travel. The brand launched popular models such as the Grafic and SUB in collaboration with Jacques-Yves Cousteau. Sadly, the company closed in 1980 due to the quartz crisis, but was relaunched in 1997 with reissues of past models and limited editions. Doxa’s most iconic model is currently the SUB, with water resistance to 4,000 meters and a chronograph version.
Raketa
Raketa, the flagship brand of the Petrodvorets Watch Factory, was created in 1961 following Yuri Gagarin’s space flight. Faced with export restrictions, Petrodvorets developed its own movements and components, including the famous 2609. Raketa watches were widely distributed in the Orient and exported to the West under the Sekonda brand. Today, Raketa is expanding with the help of Swiss professionals, offering popular models such as the Big Zero and antimagnetic polar watches. Raketa also designed Moscow’s largest monumental clock.
Vulcain
Vulcain, founded in 1858, is a Swiss watch company renowned for its Cricket watch, the first wristwatch with a mechanical alarm. Adopted by several American presidents, it is nicknamed the « President’s Watch ». The current collection includes the Cricket and other models, such as the Vulcain Cloisonne The World GMT Alarm and the Aviator Cricket GMT.
Vulcain’s future was uncertain after several sales and restructurings: it is currently being relaunched by Guillaume Laidet.
Yema
Yema, a French watchmaker founded in 1948, has created iconic models such as the Superman, the Yachtingraf and the Rallygraf. The first French watch in space with the Spationaute I, Yema also developed the robust North Pole. The brand has undergone several changes of ownership, and in 2011 launched its MBP 1000 watch movement. Yema continues to draw inspiration from its distinctive designs and uses Swiss ébauches for most of its production.
II High-end men’s watch brands
Breitling
Léon Breitling, passionate about chronographs, built one in 1884 and moved to La Chaux-de-Fonds in 1892 to produce pocket chronographs. His son Gaston shares this passion and develops chronographs to facilitate air navigation. Breitling creates some forty chronographs used by over 30 airlines. In 1942, the Chronomat is launched, followed by the Navitimer in 1952, then the Cosmonaute in 1962 for American space missions. After the quartz crisis, Breitling closed from 1979 to 1982 and concentrated on its signature chronographs, such as the Navitimer, Chronomat and SuperOcean diver, appreciated for their value for money and vintage inspiration.
Tag Heuer
Swiss luxury manufacturer TAG Heuer is famous for its high-precision chronographs and watches associated with motor sports. Founded in 1860, the company has dedicated itself to precision, with major innovations such as the oscillating pinion in 1887. Iconic models include the Autavia and the Carrera. TAG Heuer was acquired by the TAG group in 1985, and today belongs to the LVMH group. Innovative, the brand offers sporty watch designs, with a variety of mechanisms and price points, from affordable quartz models to exceptional calibers.
Omega
Omega, an influential Swiss watchmaker, was founded in 1848 and revolutionized the industry with the introduction of interchangeable parts. Now an iconic company, it merged with Tissot to create the SSIH group. Its innovations include the first minute-repeating watch and the first tourbillon wristwatch. Since 1999, Omega has been using George Daniels’ co-axial escapement. The Speedmaster Professional, associated with the Apollo missions, was the first watch on the Moon. Omega is renowned for its quality, innovation and affordable prices.
Tudor
Tudor, created by the founder of Rolex, offered an affordable alternative to luxury watches. Relying on movements from renowned manufacturers and Rolex elements, Tudor enjoyed resounding success with models such as the Oyster Prince Submariner. Recently, Tudor has revitalized its brand with the Heritage range and models such as the Black Bay and Pelagos. In 2015, the North Flag marked the arrival of Tudor’s first manufacture movement, caliber MT5621. Today, Tudor and Breitling collaborate to develop movements together.
Zenith
Zenith, the famous watchmaker, adopted its name in 1911 and dedicated itself to mechanical excellence. The brand created the legendary « El Primero » movement and overcame the quartz crisis thanks to Charles Vermot. Now part of the LVMH group, Zenith continues its quest for precision, true to the spirit of its founder Georges Favre-Jacot.
IWC
IWC is a watch brand founded in 1868 by an American engineer, combining Swiss precision and modern techniques. The company was sold in 1880 and was run by the Rauschenbach family until 1955. During the quartz crisis, IWC embraced new trends by designing the Beta21 quartz movement and collaborating with Porsche. Today, IWC is a Richemont Group company, known for its « Little Prince » collection and its « Portuguese » line, originally commissioned by Portuguese businessmen and including various complications such as chronographs, perpetual calendars and tourbillons.
Panerai
Panerai, founded in Florence in 1860, is a luxury watch brand with a strong character. Specializing in precision instruments, it supplied the Italian Royal Navy and created the Radiomir luminous substance. Moving into the civilian market in 1970, it was acquired in 1993 by the Richemont group, which reoriented its production towards luxury watches with in-house movements. The flagship models are the Radiomir and Luminor, available in four ranges and an exclusive line in partnership with Ferrari. Panerai watches are distinguished by their size, legibility and cushion cases. Although Swiss, the brand remains a symbol of Italian national pride and a must-have for collectors.
Chopard
Chopard started out in luxury watchmaking in 1860, producing ladies’ and pocket watches. In 1963, the Chopard family sold the company to German entrepreneur and jeweler Karl Scheufele, marking Chopard’s entry into jewelry and the move upmarket in its watch production. In 1976, Chopard launched the signature Happy Diamonds collection, featuring mobile diamonds between two sapphire crystals. The company developed its own movement in 1996 and acquired watchmaker Ferdinand Berthoud in 2013. Chopard men’s watches are renowned for their aesthetics and the complexity of their movements.
Jaeger-Lecoultre
The LeCoultre family is a watchmaking family that established its workshop in Switzerland in 1558. Antoine LeCoultre, a descendant of Pierre, developed inventions such as the Millionomètre and a keyless winding system. In 1891, the company began producing bicomplicated watches, with chronometer and minute repeater functions. By 1900, the company had created over 350 different calibers and was the largest manufacturer of blank movements in the Vallee de Joux. Today, the company has registered over 400 patents and produced more than 1242 different calibers. The company’s most famous lines are the Reverso and the Master.
Cartier
Founded in 1847 by Louis-François Cartier, Cartier entered the watchmaking business under the direction of Alfred Cartier, launching diamond-encrusted ladies’ watches in 1898. Louis Cartier, Alfred’s son, popularized watches by creating the Santos watch for aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont. In 1907, Cartier joined forces with Jaeger for watch movements, creating iconic models such as the Baignoire, Tortue and Tank. The Cartier Pasha, designed with Gérald Genta, is also famous. After Louis’ death, Cartier splits into three independent entities, which merge to form Cartier Monde in the late 70s. The prosperous group bought out other watchmaking houses and merged with Richemont in 1997, developing its own watchmaking expertise in the 2000s.
Ulysse Nardin
Swiss luxury watchmaker Ulysse Nardin is famous for its precise marine chronometers. Founded in 1846, the company has stood the test of time, thanks in particular to the takeover by Rolf Schnyder and his collaboration with Ludwig Oechslin. Innovative, Ulysse Nardin uses silicon components and a Dual Force escapement. Its collections, such as the Marine Regatta and the Freak, make it an exceptional watchmaker. Although little known to the general public, Ulysse Nardin seduces watch lovers with its quality and expertise
Rolex
Rolex, founded in 1908, has become the world’s most famous watch brand. The first water-resistant watch, the Oyster, was created in 1926. Rolex has improved on various innovations, including the Datejust’s date change and the GMT Master’s two-time-zone tracking. The Submariner was one of the first watches to be water-resistant to 100 meters. The most popular models today are the Submariner, GMT Master II and Daytona, although other models such as the Datejust, Milgauss and Cellini offer excellent alternatives. Despite its worldwide reputation and value retention, Rolex faces competition that sometimes offers better options at lower prices.
Bell&Ross
Founded in 1992 by Bruno Belamich (formerly of Sinn) and Carlos Rosillo, Bell&Ross specializes in military-style watches with lots of character and a very ’60s vintage design. The first BR01 model, for example, is reminiscent of a cockpit.
The company has also distinguished itself through its technical prowess, notably with the Hydromax diver, which achieved the world water-resistance record of 11110 meters.
Some notable models: the BR01 pilot, and the BR02 toolwatch
Glasshütte
Glashütte Original, founded in 1845 by Ferdinand Adolph Lange, is a German watch brand renowned for its excellence. After the Second World War, the Glashütte companies were nationalized under the name GUB. In 1994, Heinz Pfeifer and Alfred Wallner took over GUB and created Glashütte Original, targeting the high-end, luxury market. The company was sold to the Swatch Group in 2000. Today, Glashütte Original stands out for its Senator and PanoMatic collections, as well as its exclusive Spezialist series. This lesser-known German brand produces high-quality mechanical watches with high-end finishes, representing an interesting choice for discerning collectors.
Corum
Founded in 1955 in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Corum has a very special history: the company didn’t get the watch cases in time for its first Geneva show, and so housed the watch mechanism in a $20 coin. Quite a buzz for the time, which enabled Corum to develop an extremely loyal niche clientele and easily weather the quartz crisis. The best-known lines are the Admiral’s Cup, with its dodecagonal shape, and the Bubble, with its bubble-like glass. The Golden Bridge is also a line of tonneau skeleton watches remarkable for its panoramic view of the movement.
Blancpain
Founded in 1735 by Jehan-Jacques Blancpain, Blancpain is the oldest watch manufacturer still in business. In 1953, it produced the iconic Fifty Fathoms diver’s watch for the French Navy, worn by Captain Cousteau. The company closed during the quartz crisis from 1970 to 1981, then relaunched by Jean-Claude Biver and Jacques Piguet, positioning itself as a luxury brand with high-end, hand-assembled movements. Blancpain benefits from the revival of mechanical watchmaking with the 1735 model, one of the most complicated and expensive watches in the world. Iconic collections include the Fifty Fathoms, the Villeret line for dress watches, and the Léman, combining elegance and sportiness.
Bréguet
Breguet, founded in 1775 by Abraham Louis Breguet, embodies excellence in contemporary watchmaking. The brand is renowned for its innovations and the quality of its creations. Successively passed through the hands of the Breguet and Brown families and the jeweler Chaumet, Breguet was finally acquired by the Swatch Group in 1999. Today, Breguet offers watches that combine elegance, craftsmanship and technical innovation, with collections such as Tradition, Classique, Marine and Type XX. These exceptional timepieces perpetuate the heritage and design principles established by Abraham Louis Breguet.
Bulgari
Bulgari, originally a jeweler founded by Greek Sotirios Voulgaris in Rome in 1884, turned to watchmaking under the direction of Gianni Bulgari, the founder’s grandson, in the 1970s. The first watch collection was launched in 1975, followed by a second two years later, designed by Gérald Genta, propelling Bulgari into the world of luxury watchmaking. In the 2000s, the company acquired the Daniel Roth and Gérald Genta luxury watch brands, bringing design, watchmaking expertise and a workshop in the Sentier region of Switzerland. Bulgari now controls the entire watch production chain.
Universal Genève
Universal Genève, founded in 1894, produced innovative watches such as the Compax and Polerouter. Switching to quartz movements in the 1970s, the company lost some of its prestige. Since its takeover by Stelux Holdings, Universal Genève has launched collections with Microtor movements, although it is less active in the watch industry. Universal Genève’s vintage watches, such as the Polerouter, remain prized by collectors for their quality and beauty.
Rado
Rado, founded in 1917, initially produced ébauches before turning to the sale of complete watches. Integrated into the Swatch Group in 1998, the brand stands out for its research into innovative materials such as tungsten carbide and ceramics. Rado continues to explore new horizons by collaborating with renowned designers and experimenting with materials. Notable collections include Ceramica, D-Star and HyperChrome. The True and True Thinline lines offer a creative platform for designers. Rado is an underrated brand specializing in affordable watches, innovative materials and quality vintage pieces.
Luxury watch brands for men
Audemars Piguet
Founded by Jules Louis Audemars and Edward Augute Piguet in 1875, one of the few remaining independent Swiss watchmakers.
Specializing in luxury movements with complications, which they either produced for themselves or resold
Audemars Piguet is best known for the Royal Oak created with designer Gerard Genta: in 1972, it was the first luxury sports watch, completely breaking the watchmaking codes of the time. It was also the first watch to generalize the use of stainless steel in luxury watchmaking
Patek Philippe
Patek Philippe, a member of the Holy Trinity of watchmaking, is renowned for its high-quality watches and complications. Founded in 1845, the brand quickly became famous thanks to Queen Victoria. Patek Philippe watches, intended to be handed down from generation to generation, fetch impressive prices at auction. Iconic collections include the Nautilus, designed by Gerald Genta, the Aquanaut, a sporty variant of the Nautilus, the classic Calatrava, as well as the Complications and Grandes Complications models, offering minute repeaters, perpetual calendars and chronographs. Patek Philippe embodies watchmaking excellence, although its prices remain reserved for a wealthy clientele.
Richard Mille
French watchmaker Richard Mille founded his eponymous brand in 1998 with Dominique Guenat. They presented their first innovative collection in 2001, combining a passion for fast cars, aeronautics and sailing. Richard Mille watches are renowned for their research into innovative materials and advanced technologies. Production is limited, with iconic models such as the « Felipe Massa » and the « Rafael Nadal » focusing on extreme lightness. The brand also offers dress watches, such as the RM33 Extra Flat Automatic and the RM63-01 « Dizzy Hands ». Richard Mille’s technologically advanced watches are top-of-the-range and priced accordingly.
Jaquet Droz
Founded in 1773 by Pierre Jaquet-Droz, the Jaquet-Droz watch brand was renowned for its sophisticated automata, which attracted a wealthy clientele. After enjoying success in Spain, the brand declined following the deaths of Pierre and his son Henry-Louis. The brand was relaunched in 1960, then acquired by Swatch in 2000. Jaquet Droz modern watches are appreciated for their artistic finesse, quality materials and refined finishes. Top-of-the-range models often incorporate automata, such as the Oiseau Charmant, a minute-repeater watch with a bird that moves, flaps its wings and sings to mark the hours.
Lange&Sohne
A. Lange & Söhne, a leading German manufacturer of luxury watches, was founded by Ferdinand Adolph Lange and grew through the innovation of his sons, Emil and Richard. Despite market fluctuations, the company has always focused on precise calibers made in Saxony. After the Second World War, nationalization and the fall of the Berlin Wall, Walter Lange, a descendant of F.A. Lange, relaunched the brand in 1990 with the help of IWC and Jaeger LeCoultre. A. Lange & Söhne watches are renowned for their complexity, their austere, Teutonic design and the quality of their movements. Iconic collections include Lange 1, Zeitwerk, Saxonia, 1815 and Datograph. The brand is considered to be at the pinnacle of watchmaking, offering exceptional quality and finish.
Laurent Ferrier
Laurent Ferrier, from a family of watchmakers, and his partner François Servanin founded their company in 2008. Targeting the luxury watch market, their creations combine timeless elegance with Swiss watchmaking tradition, under the motto « creatively classic ». Ferrier, a former watchmaker with Patek Philippe, is also a semi-professional racing driver.
Their first model, the Galet Classic Tourbillon Double Spiral, won an award in 2010. In 2012, the Galet Micro-Rotor introduces a « natural » escapement by Abraham-Louis Breguet. In 2015, the Galet Square wins the « Révélation Horlogère » award. Laurent Ferrier stands out for its limited, refined production, meeting the demands of the most discerning watch lovers, with the iconic Assegai hands contributing to its worldwide success.
Parmigiani Fleurier
Parmigiani Fleurier, founded by Michel Parmigiani in 1995, is a prestigious Swiss watch manufacturer. Thanks to the support of the Sandoz Foundation and a partnership with Vaucher, the brand develops innovative calibers and collaborates with Bugatti to create the unique PF370 caliber. Today, Parmigiani Fleurier produces over 4,000 haute horlogerie watches a year and employs around 250 people. Collections include the elegant Toric and Kalpa men’s models, the sporty Pershing diver’s watch and the Kalpa Piccola, Kalpa Donna and Kalpa Grande ladies’ models. The brand stands out for its bold use of innovative materials and the fusion of technology and design.
Piaget
Founded in 1874 by Georges Édouard Piaget, the Piaget brand specializes in ultra-thin watches. With the launch of the 9P and 12P calibers, Piaget became famous for its elegant, lightweight watches. The brand diversified into jewelry in 1959. Resisting the quartz crisis, Piaget launched the Polo collection in 1979. Now part of the Richemont group, the brand modernizes and expands, with the Altiplano series of ultra-thin, aesthetically pleasing watches. Among today’s models, the Altiplano, with its extra-flat movements, and the sportier, more versatile Polo are the most popular. Piaget also offers a wide range of ladies’ models, from the simplest to the most luxurious.
Franck Muller
Franck Muller is a Swiss watchmaker known for his role in the revival of the tourbillon. He graduated from the Ecole d’Horlogerie de Genève and set up his own company, Franck Muller, in 1991. He now has over 500 points of sale worldwide. His watches blend Swiss tradition with American Deco design. Notable products include the Aeternitas Mega 4, the world’s most complicated wristwatch, and Crazy Hours, a barrel-shaped watch with a unique time display complication.
FP Journe
François Paul Journe is the founder and main protagonist of F.P. Journe, a Swiss manufacturer of high-end watches established in 1999. He is considered one of the finest living watchmakers, and is the first and only three-time winner of the prestigious Aiguille d’Or de la Fondation du Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. The company produces around 800 watches a year, all made in-house and under the slogan « Invenit et Fecit » (He invented and made it). Journe was born in Marseille in 1957 and was sent to technical school at the age of 15. In 1996, he went to Geneva and presented his own company at Baselworld in 1999, showing two watches, one of which, the Tourbillon avec Remontoir d’Egalité, received its first Aiguille d’Or in 2004. In 2018, Chanel acquired a 20% stake in the company. F.P. Journe creations are incredibly exclusive, with the most basic model, the Chronomètre Bleu, selling for a few tens of thousands of euros.