Timex Marlin Automatic watch: our opinion on the new Timex men’s automatic watch (and on the vintage editions)

You know what I love most about a review?

I’ve already told you several times: it’s often the history of the brand and its business model. With Timex, a men’s watch brand that has existed in many forms since 1854, I was more than served.

In fact, it’s quite rare for me to take so much pleasure in telling you the story of a brand, so full of twists and turns and innovations.

I was also able to test the Marlin automatic watch: Timex’s first mechanical model in 35 years.

Anyway, I’ll let you read this test: my research into its history, and the quality of the product, has completely changed my opinion of this brand (I naively thought it was just another entry-level brand), and I hope you will too.

I Timex: a brand that has stood the test of time, from the Waterbury Clock Company to Timex

Benedict&Burnham and « America’s Switzerland »

The Timex story is surely one of the most exciting I’ve seen so far (which is, at the same time, quite normal for a brand over 150 years old): it begins with Benedict&Burnham, a major brass manufacturer, who decides to diversify into watchmaking. The company was already doing very well: it had started out making brass buttons for soldiers, and had gone on to become the world’s largest manufacturer of tools.

The region in which Benedict&Burnham was located was already producing a large number of watches, with great success both in terms of volume and quality: the Naugatuck Valley was nicknamed « the Switzerland of America »

The Waterbury Clock Company

Founded in 1854, Timex was first known as the Waterbury Clock Company, after its home town of Waterbury, Connecticut. By 1878, it was producing over 200 gusset watches a day, leading to the creation of a specialized watch division: the Waterbury Watch Company, which became the world’s largest watch producer in 1888.

The company’s experience in brass enabled it to be more productive than its competitors: many parts of the movements were made from machine-marked brass sheet.

The Robert H. Ingersoll takeover

After intensive R&D work on pocket watches, WWC develops the Jumbo pocket watch, named after the elephant in P.T. Barnum’s traveling circus (surely one of the first licensing shows in history).

Robert H. Ingersoll, a well-known entrepreneur of the time, was impressed by the product and decided with his brother Charles to go into the watch business, produced by WWC.

One product in particular enabled them to sell millions of pocket watches: the Yankee, which at a price of $1 ($30 today) was the cheapest watch of its time, with unbeatable value for money since the offer included a one-year warranty.

With 6 million sold by 1900, this watch was a phenomenal success: it’s even known as the watch that made the dollar famous (no less).

These Ingersoll watches were then produced for soldiers during the First World War: in fact, it was one of the major players in the transition from gusset watches to classic timepieces.

The Mickey Mouse episode

The First World War was followed by the 1920s and then the Great Depression in 1928. WWC was one of the few companies to avoid bankruptcy thanks to a new success: the Mickey Mouse watch, one of the brand’s most lucrative licenses.

Launched in 1933, it sold several million units within two years, at $1.50 each. The watch’s simple but clever aesthetic, with Mickey’s hand pointing out the time, was adored by children.

Joakim Lehmkuhl: a technical leap forward served by daring marketing.

WWC at the service of the US army

A new turning point in the early ’40s: the company was bought by Thomas Olsen and Joakim Lehmkuhl, Norwegian industrialists who had fled the Nazi invasion. At the time, they were determined to support the war effort against the Axis and redirected a large part of WWC’s production to the military.

The company became the country’s biggest producer of detonators and other military equipment: the quality of this equipment was recognized by the US government, which awarded the company the national « Army-Navy E Award »: in recognition of this, the company was renamed United States Time Corporation.

End of the war: a shift to B2C and the exploitation of military innovations

The intense activity of the Second World War continued for a while with the Korean War in the ’50s, then the military market became quieter. It was at this point that the company took advantage of the valuable innovations developed during the war for the B2C market.

It was by developing a new movement, replacing precious stones (notably ruby) with an inexpensive metal alloy, Armalloy, that the brand reconsolidated its position in the entry-level segment.

It was to highlight this technological progress that the company was renamed Timex in 1950, to be read as TimeX, where the X stands for technological innovation (a bit like SpaceX before its time).

Volumes reached considerable heights: by 1963, half the watches sold in the USA were Timex, and by 1967 it was the world’s largest producer.
The brand’s marketing campaigns are at least as well known as the watches themselves.

A distribution model without intermediaries

Timex was in fact one of the world’s first direct brands, with a margin of just 30% per watch , whereas watchmakers and jewelers at the time demanded at least 50%.

As a result, Robert Mohr, head of the marketing department at the time, had to innovate in terms of distribution strategy, offering his products in places that didn’t usually sell watches: presses, tobacconists, supermarkets (sales outlets that were becoming increasingly numerous at the time).

This pricing policy resulted in prices never seen before, and in fact never seen since for watches of this quality. At the time, many mechanical models from the 60’s, manufactured in Great Britain, were sold for between $6 and $15. Some enthusiasts collect watches from this period, which are still fully functional, even without maintenance.

Innovative marketing for the time: « It takes a licking and keeps on ticking »

Not content with being a step ahead of the competition in terms of product innovation, Timex also relied on daring TV marketing (sounds classic, but in the 50s it’s like putting all your marketing on Instagram these days).

Involving a famous TV presenter of the time, John Cameron Swayze, Timex put its watches (and in particular its V-Conic model, which we’ll talk about below) to the test every day in every conceivable way through its famous Torture tests: for example, by tying it to a baseball bat during a game, hammering it, putting it in the washing machine, freezing it, tying it to a racehorse etc

Since I have to remain entirely objective, I’ll also tell you about the only Torture test the brand failed: getting stepped on by an elephant (but I must confess I don’t really know of any brands of the time with $10 watches that would have passed this test…).

Other notable Torture tests:

Iconic models

The V-Conic

This was the first watch to benefit from Timex’s new Armalloy alloy: if you do a search on them, the returns are quite surprising, as they continue to run very well. It’s probably the most indestructible watch ever made, and it and the Marlin (then 34mm and hand-wound) were the subject of Timex’s famous marketing campaigns.

The Ironman Triathlon

Launched in 1986, the Ironman is Timex’s iconic sports model, promoted by top athletes. Less than a year after its launch, it became Timex’s best-selling sports watch well into the 90s.

It was through this line that Timex introduced one of its major innovations: the Indiglo light, which revolutionized the world of watchmaking, allowing the dial to be backlit at night.

This function, which seems simple and obvious to us today, was a revolution at the time, particularly in terms of emergencies. The watch made a name for itself during the first World Trade Center bombings in 1993, enabling victims to escape from the smoke-filled building.

The Ironman was also regularly worn by Bill Clinton, at a time when American politicians increasingly wanted to resemble the average American (rather than wear an entire year’s salary on their wrists).

Electric watches

Timex became a serious brand in the electric watch segment when it acquired the German company Laco. Some of these watches no longer had winders and opened from the front. The Timex Electric calibre 84 watch (known as the Laco) was available in 1962:

Electric watches were a major step towards quartz watches.

II Test of the Timex Marlin automatic watch, the 2018 automatic reissue of the famous mechanical watch

This is the 2018 reedition of the Marlin, of which this is one of the first versions:

Notable fact about the Marlin: it’s Timex’s very first automatic since 1982

The case

This automatic watch with a 40mm-wide steel case is aimed at men looking for an affordable and elegant city watch, thanks to its 13mm thickness and 20mm lugs. A versatile configuration to suit all occasions.

Water resistance is 3 atm (approx. 30 meters).

Movement

The 2018 reedition of the Marlin uses an inexpensive, reliable and robust Japanese Miyota caliber 8215 movement. It’s surely one of the best movements to opt for on a 229-euro watch. This affordable 21-jewel movement offers 40 hours of power reserve

The case-back glass gives a good view of the movement. As you’ll have gathered, at this price, it’s not the most impressive movement to look at, but it fits in well with the model’s minimalist, unpretentious look.

The finish

Minimalist: the crown, for example, is not embossed with the brand logo.

As for the glass, it’s slightly curved, not mineral but acrilic (basically Plexiglas): this is the most economical option, while remaining resistant. However, there is no anti-reflective coating.

Dial and hands

The vintage charm of this Timex men’s automatic watch lies in the lightly brushed silver dial. For me, this finish is further enhanced by the slightly domed appearance of the crystal.

Note that the Timex collection, and more specifically the Marlin collection, also includes a model with a black dial: it features a black background punctuated by applied steel hour-markers, complemented by a discreet white track marking the seconds. This model is fitted with a black leather strap.

Simple silver hands (and gold hands on the gold model) with luminescent hour and minute markers. The markers are minimalist but legible.

Like the original edition, the date is set at 3 o’clock.

The strap fitted to this Timex Marlin is in smooth stitched leather: this refined brown leather is also of the highest quality, in keeping with the brand ‘s heritage. It closes with a stainless steel buckle.
If S.B Tanning sounds familiar, it’s not surprising. And you’ll understand why if I add that it’s located in Red Wing, Minnesota.

Water resistance

Of course, we won’t venture to test water resistance under 30 meters, but it must not be immersed or exposed to a pressurized jet (that of a shower, for example). It would be a shame if a watch inspired by a fish (the Marlin) wasn’t at least waterproof.

Style tips: how to wear the Marlin automatic men’s watch

It’s not strictly speaking a dress watch, but it can still make a good impression worn with a suit. Here are just a few of the outfits this world has to offer, from casual chic to pure formality:

Conclusion

I knew very little about Timex before doing this test, and I really enjoyed doing it, because I discovered a brand steeped in history, which has managed to renew itself over more than 170 years, and which has pioneered an impressive number of modern concepts: licensing, distribution without intermediaries, advertising and so on

This watch, full of character, reflects the brand’s image, with its characteristic 60’s heritage design: domed glass, lightly brushed dial – hard to find, and even harder to find at this price on a well-made automatic watch.

It also has the merit of being versatile, and can be worn with both casual chic and a suit (avoid workwear or streetwear, of course).

If you’re looking for your first smart automatic watch, I can’t recommend this Marlin automatic at 249 euros highly enough. It is, to tell you the truth, even the delight of discerning collectors.

What is the Timex Marlin watch?

The Timex Marlin watch is a collection of elegant, timeless watches from the Timex brand. It is known for its classic design, easy-to-read dial and comfortable strap.

What are the features of the Timex Marlin watch?

The Timex Marlin watch is available in different variations, but some common features include an automatic movement, stainless steel case, 40 mm dial width and leather strap. It is generally designed for men and offers a 40-hour power reserve.

What is the Timex Marlin automatic movement?

The automatic movement of the Timex Marlin watch means that it is powered by the energy of the wearer’s wrist movement. This eliminates the need to manually wind the watch and offers a convenient, hassle-free wearing experience.

Is the Timex Marlin watch suitable for men?

Yes, the Timex Marlin Watch is primarily designed for men. Its design and features make it a popular choice for men looking for an elegant and functional watch.

How big is the Timex Marlin watch dial?

The Timex Marlin dial measures 40 mm in width. This size is considered versatile and fits most male wrists.

What are the variations of the Timex Marlin Watch?

The Timex Marlin Watch is available in several variations, including the Marlin Automatic, the Marlin TW2T22800 and the Marlin TW2T23000. Each variation offers subtle differences in design and functionality, but all retain the timeless charm of the Marlin.

What is the significance of the « Q Timex » logo on the Timex Marlin watch?

Q Timex » is a reference to the Timex collection of vintage watches. The watches in this collection are inspired by Timex’s archives, and feature retro elements combined with modern features

Q: What is the Timex Marlin Automatic watch?

A: The Timex Marlin Automatic watch is a vintage-inspired timepiece that boasts a hand-wound mechanical movement.

Q: What is the size of the Timex Marlin Automatic watch?

A: The Timex Marlin Automatic watch comes in a 34mm case, making it a perfect choice for those who prefer smaller watches.

Q: Does the Timex Marlin Automatic watch have a date window?

A: No, the Timex Marlin Automatic watch does not have a date window. It features a simple and clean dial design without any additional complications.

Q: Is the Timex Marlin Automatic watch water-resistant?

A: The Timex Marlin Automatic watch is water-resistant up to 30 meters, but it is not recommended to wear it while swimming or bathing.

Q: What is the movement inside the Timex Marlin Automatic watch?

A: The Timex Marlin Automatic watch is powered by a hand-wound mechanical movement, which means you need to manually wind the watch to keep it running.

Q: Does the Timex Marlin Automatic watch have lume on its dial?

A: Yes, the Timex Marlin Automatic watch features lume on its hour markers and hands, allowing you to read the time in low-light conditions.

Q: Is the crystal of the Timex Marlin Automatic watch made of acrylic?

A: Yes, the Timex Marlin Automatic watch has a domed acrylic crystal, which adds to its vintage look and feel.

Q: Can I see the movement through the caseback of the Timex Marlin Automatic watch?

A: No, the Timex Marlin Automatic watch does not have an exhibition caseback. The caseback is solid and does not allow you to see the movement.

Q: What is the origin of the name « Marlin » in the Timex Marlin Automatic watch?

A: The name « Marlin » in the Timex Marlin Automatic watch is inspired by the marlin fish, known for its speed and agility.

Q: Is the Timex Marlin Automatic watch a reissue of a vintage model?

A: Yes, the Timex Marlin Automatic watch is a reissue of a vintage Timex model from the mid-century. It has been redesigned to meet the modern standards of watchmaking.

Timex Marlin Automatic watch: our opinion on the new Timex men’s automatic watch (and on the vintage editions)

You know what I love most about a review?

I’ve already told you several times: it’s often the history of the brand and its business model. With Timex, a men’s watch brand that has existed in many forms since 1854, I was more than served.

In fact, it’s quite rare for me to take so much pleasure in telling you the story of a brand, so full of twists and turns and innovations.

I was also able to test the Marlin automatic watch: Timex’s first mechanical model in 35 years.

Anyway, I’ll let you read this test: my research into its history, and the quality of the product, has completely changed my opinion of this brand (I naively thought it was just another entry-level brand), and I hope you will too.

I Timex: a brand that has stood the test of time, from the Waterbury Clock Company to Timex

Benedict&Burnham and « America’s Switzerland »

The Timex story is surely one of the most exciting I’ve seen so far (which is, at the same time, quite normal for a brand over 150 years old): it begins with Benedict&Burnham, a major brass manufacturer, who decides to diversify into watchmaking. The company was already doing very well: it had started out making brass buttons for soldiers, and had gone on to become the world’s largest manufacturer of tools.

The region in which Benedict&Burnham was located was already producing a large number of watches, with great success both in terms of volume and quality: the Naugatuck Valley was nicknamed « the Switzerland of America »

The Waterbury Clock Company

Founded in 1854, Timex was first known as the Waterbury Clock Company, after its home town of Waterbury, Connecticut. By 1878, it was producing over 200 gusset watches a day, leading to the creation of a specialized watch division: the Waterbury Watch Company, which became the world’s largest watch producer in 1888.

The company’s experience in brass enabled it to be more productive than its competitors: many parts of the movements were made from machine-marked brass sheet.

The Robert H. Ingersoll takeover

After intensive R&D work on pocket watches, WWC develops the Jumbo pocket watch, named after the elephant in P.T. Barnum’s traveling circus (surely one of the first licensing shows in history).

Robert H. Ingersoll, a well-known entrepreneur of the time, was impressed by the product and decided with his brother Charles to go into the watch business, produced by WWC.

One product in particular enabled them to sell millions of pocket watches: the Yankee, which at a price of $1 ($30 today) was the cheapest watch of its time, with unbeatable value for money since the offer included a one-year warranty.

With 6 million sold by 1900, this watch was a phenomenal success: it’s even known as the watch that made the dollar famous (no less).

These Ingersoll watches were then produced for soldiers during the First World War: in fact, it was one of the major players in the transition from gusset watches to classic timepieces.

The Mickey Mouse episode

The First World War was followed by the 1920s and then the Great Depression in 1928. WWC was one of the few companies to avoid bankruptcy thanks to a new success: the Mickey Mouse watch, one of the brand’s most lucrative licenses.

Launched in 1933, it sold several million units within two years, at $1.50 each. The watch’s simple but clever aesthetic, with Mickey’s hand pointing out the time, was adored by children.

Joakim Lehmkuhl: a technical leap forward served by daring marketing.

WWC at the service of the US army

A new turning point in the early ’40s: the company was bought by Thomas Olsen and Joakim Lehmkuhl, Norwegian industrialists who had fled the Nazi invasion. At the time, they were determined to support the war effort against the Axis and redirected a large part of WWC’s production to the military.

The company became the country’s biggest producer of detonators and other military equipment: the quality of this equipment was recognized by the US government, which awarded the company the national « Army-Navy E Award »: in recognition of this, the company was renamed United States Time Corporation.

End of the war: a shift to B2C and the exploitation of military innovations

The intense activity of the Second World War continued for a while with the Korean War in the ’50s, then the military market became quieter. It was at this point that the company took advantage of the valuable innovations developed during the war for the B2C market.

It was by developing a new movement, replacing precious stones (notably ruby) with an inexpensive metal alloy, Armalloy, that the brand reconsolidated its position in the entry-level segment.

It was to highlight this technological progress that the company was renamed Timex in 1950, to be read as TimeX, where the X stands for technological innovation (a bit like SpaceX before its time).

Volumes reached considerable heights: by 1963, half the watches sold in the USA were Timex, and by 1967 it was the world’s largest producer.
The brand’s marketing campaigns are at least as well known as the watches themselves.

A distribution model without intermediaries

Timex was in fact one of the world’s first direct brands, with a margin of just 30% per watch , whereas watchmakers and jewelers at the time demanded at least 50%.

As a result, Robert Mohr, head of the marketing department at the time, had to innovate in terms of distribution strategy, offering his products in places that didn’t usually sell watches: presses, tobacconists, supermarkets (sales outlets that were becoming increasingly numerous at the time).

This pricing policy resulted in prices never seen before, and in fact never seen since for watches of this quality. At the time, many mechanical models from the 60’s, manufactured in Great Britain, were sold for between $6 and $15. Some enthusiasts collect watches from this period, which are still fully functional, even without maintenance.

Innovative marketing for the time: « It takes a licking and keeps on ticking »

Not content with being a step ahead of the competition in terms of product innovation, Timex also relied on daring TV marketing (sounds classic, but in the 50s it’s like putting all your marketing on Instagram these days).

Involving a famous TV presenter of the time, John Cameron Swayze, Timex put its watches (and in particular its V-Conic model, which we’ll talk about below) to the test every day in every conceivable way through its famous Torture tests: for example, by tying it to a baseball bat during a game, hammering it, putting it in the washing machine, freezing it, tying it to a racehorse etc

Since I have to remain entirely objective, I’ll also tell you about the only Torture test the brand failed: getting stepped on by an elephant (but I must confess I don’t really know of any brands of the time with $10 watches that would have passed this test…).

Other notable Torture tests:

Iconic models

The V-Conic

This was the first watch to benefit from Timex’s new Armalloy alloy: if you do a search on them, the returns are quite surprising, as they continue to run very well. It’s probably the most indestructible watch ever made, and it and the Marlin (then 34mm and hand-wound) were the subject of Timex’s famous marketing campaigns.

The Ironman Triathlon

Launched in 1986, the Ironman is Timex’s iconic sports model, promoted by top athletes. Less than a year after its launch, it became Timex’s best-selling sports watch well into the 90s.

It was through this line that Timex introduced one of its major innovations: the Indiglo light, which revolutionized the world of watchmaking, allowing the dial to be backlit at night.

This function, which seems simple and obvious to us today, was a revolution at the time, particularly in terms of emergencies. The watch made a name for itself during the first World Trade Center bombings in 1993, enabling victims to escape from the smoke-filled building.

The Ironman was also regularly worn by Bill Clinton, at a time when American politicians increasingly wanted to resemble the average American (rather than wear an entire year’s salary on their wrists).

Electric watches

Timex became a serious brand in the electric watch segment when it acquired the German company Laco. Some of these watches no longer had winders and opened from the front. The Timex Electric calibre 84 watch (known as the Laco) was available in 1962:

Electric watches were a major step towards quartz watches.

II Test of the Timex Marlin automatic watch, the 2018 automatic reissue of the famous mechanical watch

This is the 2018 reedition of the Marlin, of which this is one of the first versions:

Notable fact about the Marlin: it’s Timex’s very first automatic since 1982

The case

This automatic watch with a 40mm-wide steel case is aimed at men looking for an affordable and elegant city watch, thanks to its 13mm thickness and 20mm lugs. A versatile configuration to suit all occasions.

Water resistance is 3 atm (approx. 30 meters).

Movement

The 2018 reedition of the Marlin uses an inexpensive, reliable and robust Japanese Miyota caliber 8215 movement. It’s surely one of the best movements to opt for on a 229-euro watch. This affordable 21-jewel movement offers 40 hours of power reserve

The case-back glass gives a good view of the movement. As you’ll have gathered, at this price, it’s not the most impressive movement to look at, but it fits in well with the model’s minimalist, unpretentious look.

The finish

Minimalist: the crown, for example, is not embossed with the brand logo.

As for the glass, it’s slightly curved, not mineral but acrilic (basically Plexiglas): this is the most economical option, while remaining resistant. However, there is no anti-reflective coating.

Dial and hands

The vintage charm of this Timex men’s automatic watch lies in the lightly brushed silver dial. For me, this finish is further enhanced by the slightly domed appearance of the crystal.

Note that the Timex collection, and more specifically the Marlin collection, also includes a model with a black dial: it features a black background punctuated by applied steel hour-markers, complemented by a discreet white track marking the seconds. This model is fitted with a black leather strap.

Simple silver hands (and gold hands on the gold model) with luminescent hour and minute markers. The markers are minimalist but legible.

Like the original edition, the date is set at 3 o’clock.

The strap fitted to this Timex Marlin is in smooth stitched leather: this refined brown leather is also of the highest quality, in keeping with the brand ‘s heritage. It closes with a stainless steel buckle.
If S.B Tanning sounds familiar, it’s not surprising. And you’ll understand why if I add that it’s located in Red Wing, Minnesota.

Water resistance

Of course, we won’t venture to test water resistance under 30 meters, but it must not be immersed or exposed to a pressurized jet (that of a shower, for example). It would be a shame if a watch inspired by a fish (the Marlin) wasn’t at least waterproof.

Style tips: how to wear the Marlin automatic men’s watch

It’s not strictly speaking a dress watch, but it can still make a good impression worn with a suit. Here are just a few of the outfits this world has to offer, from casual chic to pure formality:

Conclusion

I knew very little about Timex before doing this test, and I really enjoyed doing it, because I discovered a brand steeped in history, which has managed to renew itself over more than 170 years, and which has pioneered an impressive number of modern concepts: licensing, distribution without intermediaries, advertising and so on

This watch, full of character, reflects the brand’s image, with its characteristic 60’s heritage design: domed glass, lightly brushed dial – hard to find, and even harder to find at this price on a well-made automatic watch.

It also has the merit of being versatile, and can be worn with both casual chic and a suit (avoid workwear or streetwear, of course).

If you’re looking for your first smart automatic watch, I can’t recommend this Marlin automatic at 249 euros highly enough. It is, to tell you the truth, even the delight of discerning collectors.

What is the Timex Marlin watch?

The Timex Marlin watch is a collection of elegant, timeless watches from the Timex brand. It is known for its classic design, easy-to-read dial and comfortable strap.

What are the features of the Timex Marlin watch?

The Timex Marlin watch is available in different variations, but some common features include an automatic movement, stainless steel case, 40 mm dial width and leather strap. It is generally designed for men and offers a 40-hour power reserve.

What is the Timex Marlin automatic movement?

The automatic movement of the Timex Marlin watch means that it is powered by the energy of the wearer’s wrist movement. This eliminates the need to manually wind the watch and offers a convenient, hassle-free wearing experience.

Is the Timex Marlin watch suitable for men?

Yes, the Timex Marlin Watch is primarily designed for men. Its design and features make it a popular choice for men looking for an elegant and functional watch.

How big is the Timex Marlin watch dial?

The Timex Marlin dial measures 40 mm in width. This size is considered versatile and fits most male wrists.

What are the variations of the Timex Marlin Watch?

The Timex Marlin Watch is available in several variations, including the Marlin Automatic, the Marlin TW2T22800 and the Marlin TW2T23000. Each variation offers subtle differences in design and functionality, but all retain the timeless charm of the Marlin.

What is the significance of the « Q Timex » logo on the Timex Marlin watch?

Q Timex » is a reference to the Timex collection of vintage watches. The watches in this collection are inspired by Timex’s archives, and feature retro elements combined with modern features