Hands-On: Vulcain Skindiver Nautique Brown 38mm — Tropical Dial & Real-World Value

In the saturated world of watch reissues, where every manufacturer digs into its archives like unearthing relics, Vulcain dares the unthinkable: transforming a commercial failure from the 60s into a contemporary object of desire. A bold strategy that questions our relationship with vintage and watchmaking authenticity.

Imagine a dive watch so discreet it was overshadowed by its own alarm-equipped sibling. Yet, this very watch now commands high prices on the vintage market. How can this turnaround be explained? The Vulcain Skindiver Nautique embodies a fascinating paradox: it was neither the first, nor the most innovative, nor even the most popular dive watch of its time.

But now, in 2023, its reissue is shaking the foundations of the watchmaking world. Why are collectors who already own Submariners and Fifty Fathoms turning to this outsider? The answer may lie in this new chocolate dial, which evokes those mysterious “tropical dials” that time transforms into treasures.

Between meticulous authenticity and calculated audacity, Vulcain offers us much more than just another neo-vintage watch. It’s an entire watchmaking philosophy that emerges, where emotion takes precedence over pure performance. A breakdown of a phenomenon that is disrupting established codes.

1. Historical Context: Vulcain Dives into the 60s

At the turn of the 1960s, recreational scuba diving was booming. Major watchmaking houses began creating “skin-diver” watches, robust and waterproof, for civilian divers. Vulcain, a manufacturer founded in 1858 and renowned for its Cricket alarm watches, was no exception. In 1960, the brand introduced the Vulcain “Skindiver Nautique” – one of its first mass-market dive watches. With its approximately 35mm steel case and black dial with luminescent markers, this diver ranked among the respected models of the era, alongside the already established Blancpain Fifty Fathoms and Rolex Submariner. It offered a respectable water resistance (Super Waterproof 20 ATM, or ~200m) and was equipped with a reliable automatic caliber. Like many “skin-divers” of the time, it featured a 60-minute graduated rotating bezel and was mounted on a Tropic-style rubber strap. Vulcain, however, added its own touch: some versions included a date function (rarely placed at 6 o’clock at the time), and the case back proudly displayed water resistance mentions that appealed to budding divers.

Beyond this “classic” Skindiver, Vulcain made an even bigger mark on history in 1961 with the Cricket Nautical, a diving version equipped with an alarm and a decompression scale dial. This atypical watch, the first of its kind to combine a sound alarm with a depth rating of 300m, established Vulcain’s credibility among experienced divers. Advertisements from the era featured ocean explorers like Hannes Keller and Arthur Droz to promote these models. Although the Cricket Nautical stole the show technologically, the “simple” Skindiver Nautique without an alarm remained the brand’s accessible dive watch for amateurs, robust and legible in all conditions. Today, it is among the “sleeping beauties” sought after in vintage collections, witnesses to a pioneering era when recreational diving was the stuff of dreams.

2. Movement & Features: From the Sixties Caliber to the Elaboré ETA 2824

While the exterior of the 1960 Vulcain Skindiver followed the codes of its time’s dive watches, its “engine” was no less interesting. Vulcain equipped its first Skindiver Nautique with a reliable automatic caliber – depending on the series, one finds either a 17-jewel A. Schild movement or an ETA 2472 ébauche with a stop-second, both beating at 18,000 vph. These movements offered about 40 hours of power reserve, a standard at the time, and included an Incabloc anti-shock device (proudly inscribed on the dial). Thus, the original Skindiver combined mechanical robustness with ease of maintenance, an essential asset for a tool watch meant to be roughed up underwater.

In 2023, when Vulcain relaunched the Skindiver Nautique in 38mm, the choice of movement fell on a proven classic: the ETA 2824-2 in its “elaboré” version. This 25-jewel Swiss caliber, running at 28,800 vph, is certainly a “workhorse” known to all watchmakers, but that is precisely what guarantees its reliability and easy long-term maintenance. Vulcain also opted for a no-date variant of the 2824 to preserve the clean aesthetic of the dial: no window disrupts the harmony, and the phantom date position has even been removed for a more direct manual winding feel (no “empty” date click when pulling the crown).

The unavoidable trade-off is a modest power reserve of 38 hours – a relative weak point in the age of 3-day calibers, but sufficient for regular rotation. In terms of specifications, the modern Skindiver Nautique checks all the boxes of a serious dive watch: 316L steel case water-resistant to 20 ATM (200m), screw-down crown, unidirectional notched bezel with a scratch-resistant black ceramic insert, and a double-domed sapphire crystal with internal anti-reflective coating. At 12.2mm thick, it remains relatively slim for an automatic diver, aided by a well-crafted case middle – a thinned case profile, a slightly domed case back that sits comfortably on the wrist, and a domed crystal that extends the line of the bezel.

On the dial side, Vulcain has replicated the sober recipe of yesteryear: a fine seconds hand, baton hands, and geometric indices painted with luminescent material.

But gone is the aged tritium, replaced by modern Super-LumiNova in a “khaki brown” hue, a beige-brown color that mimics the look of aged radium/tritium (without the harmfulness, of course) and offers excellent nighttime legibility. The “Brown” dial, in particular, features a semi-gloss sunburst finish of the most beautiful effect, varying from chocolate to tobacco depending on the light. The “Incabloc 25 JEWELS” inscription is still present at 6 o’clock, a nod to vintage watches that highlighted their shock-protection device and the number of jewels in the movement.

3. The 316L Steel Bracelet with Large Links

Introduced in 2024 to enrich the Skindiver Nautique collection, this optional steel bracelet finally meets the insistent demands of enthusiasts who wanted a worthy metal alternative. A subtle reinterpretation of a seventies design, it consists of large, solid 316L steel links: a horizontally brushed center delicately framed by polished chamfers, a “mono-link” design that does not go unnoticed. The aesthetic immediately evokes the golden age of dive watches while cleverly echoing the vertical brushed finish of the case, creating a perfectly mastered visual continuity.

With a 20mm lug width that gradually tapers to 16mm at the buckle, the end-links fit the 38mm case with remarkable precision. The result? The watch gains presence, appearing sportier and more sophisticated than on the rubber Tropic or the traditional “beads of rice” bracelet. This transformation considerably expands the range of possibilities: a casual weekend, a day at the office, or even a sleek dressy outfit – everything becomes conceivable.

On the practical side, the deployant clasp cleverly integrates a tool-free micro-adjustment system of about one centimeter – a detail that will delight those familiar with wrist size variations throughout the day. The solid, screw-assembled links ensure exemplary robustness and eliminate any parasitic torsion; the watch maintains a perfect balance despite the added weight.

The wide links articulate flexibly to naturally hug the wrist, while this additional mass gives the Skindiver a reassuring footing without ever making it cumbersome.

Ultimately, this steel bracelet successfully combines retro authenticity and modern functionality – impeccable finishing, an ingenious micro-adjustment system, solid construction – making it a particularly relevant choice for the discerning enthusiast looking to enhance the versatility and look of their Vulcain Skindiver Nautique.

4. Key References: Past & Present (Comparative Table)

Over time, several iterations of the Vulcain Skindiver have been released. Let’s focus on three key references: the original model from ~1960, the Skindiver Nautique 38 reissue launched in 2023, and the new 2024/25 variant called Brown with its tropical brown dial. Here is a summary of their key features:

Model (Year)	Diameter	Movement	Water Resistance	Special Features
Vulcain Skindiver “Nautique” (~1960)	≈ 35 mm	Automatic Cal. 17j (AS / ETA 2472) 18,000 vph, ≈ 40h PR	Super Waterproof 20 ATM (≈ 200 m)	Matte black dial, tritium Date at 3h or 6h depending on version Domed plexiglass crystal Engraved case back “100 Fathoms”
Vulcain Skindiver Nautique 38 (2023)	38.0 mm	ETA 2824-2 elaboré, 25j 28,800 vph, 38h PR	20 ATM (200 m)	Black or blue dial, Super-LumiNova No date (no-date cal.) Double-domed sapphire crystal Black ceramic bezel
Vulcain Skindiver Nautique Brown (2024)	38.0 mm	ETA 2824-2 elaboré, 25j 28,800 vph, 38h PR	20 ATM (200 m)	Sunburst “tropical” brown dial Khaki brown indices & hands Delivered on Tropic or “beads of rice” bracelet Recent series (limited production)

The comparison highlights the gentle evolution of this dive watch. The size increases from 35 to 38mm, reflecting current standards while remaining very “wearable” even for slim wrists. The overall look remains that of a classic, no-frills skin-diver (same case profile, no crown guards), but the materials are modernized – more resistant 316L steel, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal replacing hesalite, high-tech ceramic bezel insert instead of painted aluminum. The water resistance remains at 200m, more than sufficient for recreational diving (and consistent with the contained thickness of the case, which is not an extreme professional diving instrument). Vulcain’s return in 2022/2023, driven by Guillaume Laidet, was accompanied by a repositioning in this neo-vintage segment: the Skindiver Nautique 38 is thus one of the flagships of the new range, alongside reissues of the historic Cricket model.

User Feedback: Strengths and Weaknesses of the Model

What do those who wear the “new” Skindiver Nautique have to say? Overall, feedback from enthusiasts is very positive regarding Vulcain’s execution. Among the unanimously appreciated strengths are first and foremost the compact and balanced dimensions: 38mm in diameter with a 44.5mm “lug-to-lug” length, it’s a flawless fit for the wrist and recalls the proportions of vintage watches. The authenticity of the design is another major asset: many praise the aesthetic fidelity to the original model (Vulcain even kept the vintage logo and font, as well as the Incabloc mention). This authenticity provides a real retro emotion – it feels like wearing a timepiece from a 1960s vault, but with the reliability of a new watch. Furthermore, the legibility is excellent, day and night: the khaki-brown indices and hands offer enough contrast against the dial, and the modern luminescence shines brightly in the dark. Finally, many highlight the slimness of the case (12.2mm including the crystal), which allows the watch to slide under a cuff and not feel too heavy – far from some oversized remakes, Vulcain has respected the “elegant tool” spirit here.

That said, a few weaknesses or questionable choices also emerge from discussions on forums and social media. The most cited is the absence of a date: while purists rejoice in the clean, symmetrical dial, others regret that Vulcain doesn’t offer at least a date variant for more daily practicality. The limited power reserve of the ETA 2824 caliber (about 38 hours) also irks some in an era of watches exceeding 70 hours – concretely, if you don’t wear the watch for two days, it will stop, a detail that can annoy those who often rotate their watches. However, it’s known that this is the trade-off for an ultra-reliable and easily serviceable movement, a choice made by Vulcain. Another initial criticism from some was the original strap on the first 2023 models (a black “carbon” pattern leather), which was deemed too long and not in keeping with the vintage spirit. Fortunately, Vulcain corrected this by now offering a much more appropriate rubber Tropic strap, or even a very nice optional “beads of rice” steel bracelet. Finally, the availability of different color variants has frustrated some collectors: as the brand released several colors in sometimes limited editions (a “Purple” series for Only Watch, a Gold & Blue edition, a pop Orange version, etc.), not all are easy to find in stock. But this is also part of the charm of an independent brand with a limited production volume: each Skindiver remains relatively exclusive, and you won’t see the same one on every corner.

4. Value for Money & Competitors: Where Does the Vulcain Stand?

Priced at around CHF 1,490 to 1,650 incl. VAT (depending on the bracelet choice, approximately €1,500 or $1,600), the Skindiver Nautique is positioned in the “upper mid-range” segment of neo-vintage dive watches. Its value for money has been deemed “very reasonable” by many observers: for under €2,000, you get a well-crafted Swiss execution, a known but high-performing movement, and a genuine historical legitimacy for the model. To assess its competitiveness, it should be compared to some notable alternatives on the current market, all with a vintage style and a contained size:

• Oris Divers Sixty-Five 40mm: This Swiss diver, inspired by a 1965 Oris model, is a direct competitor. It has a 40mm steel case, only 100m water resistance (a vintage choice by Oris), and a Sellita SW200 movement (equivalent to ETA 2824) with a date function. The price is around €2,000 on a steel bracelet. Oris offers many color variations (blue, green, bronze “Cotton Candy” edition, etc.) and has a well-established image, but its price is a step above for sometimes inferior specifications (100m water resistance).
• Longines Legend Diver 39mm: Longines has released its famous Legend Diver in a 39mm version, making it comparable. It’s a “super compressor” with a dual crown (a different design with an internal bezel) and 300m water resistance. Its L888 movement offers a 72-hour power reserve, a notable advantage, and it is available with or without a date depending on the edition. The retail price is around €2,500, often less in-store. Longines offers very attractive gradient dials (green, blue, terracotta brown). Compared to Vulcain, the Longines brings the power of a major brand and superior water resistance, but loses in exclusivity (much larger production).
• Baltic Aquascaphe Classic: For around €800, the French microbrand Baltic offers a 39mm neo-vintage diver, water-resistant to 200m, powered by a Japanese Miyota automatic caliber. The “Bronze Brown” version, in particular, features a tropical brown dial in a patinable bronze case. The perceived quality is good for the price (sapphire, old-radium lume), but it’s a step below Vulcain in terms of movement and prestige. However, Baltic targets a clientele of vintage style purists on a budget – the Vulcain will have to justify the price difference with its superior Swiss finish and heritage.
• Doxa Sub 200 “Caribbean”: Doxa, another historical specialist, offers the Sub 200 for ~€1,000 (€900 on rubber). It has a larger 42mm case, a prominent “box” sapphire crystal, 200m water resistance, and an ETA/Sellita movement. The design is 60s neo-vintage, with very colorful dials (the “Caribbean” version has a navy blue dial). Doxa offers a very comfortable “beads of rice” bracelet. Compared to Vulcain, the Sub 200 is larger and more playful in color, but less refined in certain details (simple case, no specific history to this Sub 200 model which is a neo-retro without a direct ancestor, unlike the Vulcain).
• Seiko SPB143 (62MAS reinterpretation): At ~€1,200, Seiko offers with the SPB143 a modern re-edition of its first diver from 1965. It has a 40.5mm steel case, 200m water resistance, and an in-house 6R35 caliber (3 Hz, 70-hour reserve). Impeccable Seiko quality in lume and finish, but a non-double-domed sapphire crystal, and slightly more massive dimensions. Its style is very close to vintage watches and it has Seiko’s reliability on its side. However, it is mass-produced and does not offer the same “collector” aura as a more limited series Vulcain.
• Yema Superman 500 Bronze 39mm: For ~€1,300, the French brand Yema offers its Superman model in bronze, with a 39mm diameter and 500m water resistance (!). The design dates back to 1963, with the famous bezel lock at 3 o’clock. It houses a YEMA2000 manufacture movement (45h, +/-10 s/d theoretical). The bronze gives it an authentic vintage look, and the water resistance is the best in this comparison. However, the bezel lock mechanism and Yema’s finish are sometimes criticized for some quirks or inconsistent precision. The Vulcain offers a more versatile design than the very distinct Superman style.

Faced with this competition, where does the Skindiver Nautique stand? In terms of price, Vulcain manages to position itself below the established big names (Longines, Oris) while offering a perceived quality and authenticity superior to cheaper microbrands (Baltic, Yema). This makes it very competitive for those looking for a true vintage dive watch without exceeding the €1,500–€1,800 range. On the technical side, it is on par with most: 200m water resistance, sapphire, a reliable but standard movement – it doesn’t win the innovation battle, but that’s not what’s asked of it. Its brand image and history work in its favor with connoisseurs: wearing a Vulcain evokes a Swiss house rich in heritage (US presidents wore Vulcain Crickets, etc.), while wearing a recent microbrand doesn’t have the same aura. On the other hand, compared to Longines or Oris, Vulcain is less known to the general public, which can make it more of a niche choice: an advantage for the discerning enthusiast who wants to stand out, but a potential drawback in terms of resale or service (more limited distribution network).

In short, the Skindiver Nautique Brown positions itself on the value-perception chessboard as a niche piece for enthusiasts, offering the authentic vintage charm that some big-brand competitors touch upon without matching, at a contained price given its assets. It probably won’t be the highest-performing dive watch on the market (it’s not a saturation tool watch like a Doxa 300T or a modern diver with a helium escape valve), but it delivers an emotional watchmaking experience that few others can offer for this budget.

5. Buying Advice: What You Need to Know Before Taking the Plunge

For the purchase of a current Vulcain Skindiver, several options are available. Vulcain, an independent house, distributes its watches through a few high-end retailers, but primarily directly on its official website. The good news: the online price is generally aligned (or even advantageous with potential promotions or welcome codes) and includes taxes for Europe. If you opt for a direct purchase, you will benefit from a 2-year manufacturer’s warranty and Vulcain’s customer service. Be sure to choose your bracelet configuration at the time of purchase: the Brown model is offered either on a rubber Tropic strap or a “Beads of Rice” steel bracelet (usually with a slight surcharge). The two offer a different style: the Tropic reinforces the vintage tool watch look, while the “beads of rice” bracelet adds an elegant touch while remaining vintage (and it also has a quick-change system).

If you are looking for a piece that has already been produced but is unavailable new (e.g., a sold-out colorway), the secondary market can be explored. On platforms like Chrono24 or specialized forums, you can occasionally find used Skindiver Nautique watches, often resold by collectors who have worn them little. Prices remain stable – neither speculative inflation nor massive depreciation – a sign of a real, balanced demand against a limited supply. Expect to pay around €1,200 to €1,400 on the second-hand market depending on the condition, which is rather reassuring regarding the model’s value retention.

For lovers of authentic vintage who might be eyeing the original 1960s Skindiver, our advice differs slightly. You can sometimes find vintage Vulcain Skindivers at watch antique dealers or on collector-to-collector sales sites. Prices for a well-preserved example generally range from €800 to €1,200 – cheaper than the reissue, but beware of the condition! You must demand detailed photos of the dial (presence of mold, uniformity of the tritium), the bezel (is it still present and graduated? Many bakelite bezels of the era were lost or broken), and the movement (a full service will likely be needed, and parts may need to be replaced, such as the mainspring or the winding stem). Ensure that the case back is signed by Vulcain and numbered, proof of authenticity, and beware of “frankenwatches” that mix parts from other generic skin-divers. Buying from a reputable source (e.g., a professional seller with a return guarantee, or a vintage shop like Analog:Shift, Momentum Dubai, etc.) is recommended to avoid unpleasant surprises.

Whether you choose the charm of the past with a vintage piece or the appeal of a new neo-retro model, the Vulcain Skindiver Nautique is one of those watches you buy with your heart as much as with your head. Take the time to see it on the wrist if possible: its appearance is more subtle in person than in photos, and the magic often happens immediately for vintage lovers. Don’t hesitate to engage on Facebook groups dedicated to dive watches or on specialized forums (Forumamontres, Watchuseek…) – the Vulcain community is present there and can share experiences and tips (for example, a certain retailer in Germany has stock of a particular version, or a certain collector is selling theirs to fund another purchase…). Ultimately, whether you are a seasoned collector or a new enthusiast of vintage-style watches, the Skindiver Nautique Brown will likely speak to you – and remind you that on the wrist, history and emotion are as important as pure technique.

6. Style Tips

Outfit 1 – Contemporary Adventurer Spirit: The chocolate Skindiver finds a natural setting here in this palette of earthy tones. The khaki pants harmonize beautifully with the brown shades of the dial, while the finely striped shirt adds a discreet structure that avoids the all-military trap. The aged leather belt echoes the warm tones of the watch, creating a subtle visual coherence. The “beads of rice” steel bracelet introduces a welcome touch of refinement that transcends the utilitarian spirit of the outfit. It is precisely in this type of casual-workwear configuration that the Skindiver reveals its versatility, navigating with ease between its tool watch heritage and a contemporary style accessory.

Outfit 2 – Casual Urban Sophistication: The bold pairing of the eggplant shirt with the chocolate dial creates an unexpected yet perfectly mastered chromatic dialogue. This harmony of warm, deep hues demonstrates that the Skindiver far exceeds its status as a simple tool watch. The khaki pants maintain the earthy anchor while providing a balancing neutrality. The tortoiseshell glasses subtly reinforce the vintage spirit of the ensemble. In this configuration, the watch becomes a true style accent, proving that a historic diver can perfectly integrate into a sophisticated urban register without losing its authenticity.

Outfit 3 – Mastered Transitional Elegance: The khaki trench coat radically transforms the perception of this vintage diver. The chocolate nuances of the dial resonate with the warm tones of the coat, creating a sophisticated visual continuity. The eggplant shirt, peeking out from under the trench, maintains the established chromatic dialogue while adding a touch of modernity. This clever layering demonstrates the remarkable versatility of the Skindiver, capable of navigating between registers without ever seeming out of place. The ensemble proves that a historic dive watch can perfectly accompany an elegant urban silhouette, provided one masters color harmonies.

Outfit 4 – Refined Business Casual: The beige blazer and the orange medallion-patterned tie establish a sophisticated dialogue with the warm tones of the tropical dial. This combination brilliantly demonstrates that the Skindiver transcends its sporty DNA to integrate into an assertive sartorial register. The finely striped shirt subtly recalls the watch’s maritime heritage, while the navy pants anchor the ensemble in classic elegance. The steel bracelet adds just the right amount of shine to balance the matte texture of the dial. This is proof that this vintage diver possesses an unsuspected versatility, capable of enriching even the most formal outfits.

Conclusion: A Dive Watch with Character, Between Fidelity and Emotion

“Isn’t chocolate the new neo-vintage trend?” one might wonder while contemplating the Skindiver Nautique Brown. By reviving its tropical brown dial, Vulcain has achieved a masterstroke – offering both a faithful historical reissue and a terribly endearing watch. In terms of fidelity to the original model, it’s flawless: proportions, design, overall atmosphere, everything is there. We find that functional sobriety specific to the first civilian dive watches, enhanced here with a touch of sophistication (ceramic bezel, impeccable brushed/polished finishes) that does not distort the whole. On the emotion side, it’s hard to do better in this price range: the “tropic” dial instantly evokes adventures in the tropics, the warm patina of passing time – every glance at the wrist tells a story, that of an object that could have crossed 60 years of oceans and sun. This is precisely the charm sought by the neo-vintage enthusiast: a horological madeleine de Proust to wear every day.

The value retention of this Vulcain looks promising, without being speculative. Being produced in limited quantities by an independent house, it avoids the pitfall of overproduction that causes some major brand models to drop in value. On the contrary, its relative scarcity on the market and the lasting interest in vintage dive watches suggest that it will remain prized by collectors in the future. Of course, one doesn’t buy this type of watch to invest but for pleasure – however, knowing that your timepiece won’t lose 50% of its value in a year is always appreciated. Vulcain, under the leadership of Guillaume Laidet, seems to be on the right track to sustain this collection: new colors and variations are already available, a reissue of the Skindiver chronograph in 2023, etc., signs that the brand is building something coherent and high-quality.

As for the buyer profiles concerned, they are quite varied. The first is undoubtedly the vintage watch aficionado who wants a historical piece that can be used daily without fear: for them, the Skindiver Nautique is ideal, as it combines authentic retro style with the reliability of a new watch. Then there is the general dive watch enthusiast, who may already own Seikos, or other Seiko or Orient divers, and wishes to move upmarket with a Swiss piece that is different from the usual production: the Vulcain will offer them the originality and history that an umpteenth Submariner or a more common Longines might not have. Finally, there is the curious collector in search of a niche watch, from a revived brand – this person will see the Skindiver Brown as a potential future “collector’s item,” the kind of piece you don’t see everywhere and that will spark conversation with its discreet charm alone.

In short, the Vulcain Skindiver Nautique Brown successfully synthesizes yesterday and today. It does not seek technological one-upmanship, but offers its wearer a watchmaking experience rich in meaning – that of having a small piece of vintage Swiss heritage on the wrist, updated with tact. For us, the verdict is clear: it’s a favorite for those nostalgic for the golden age of diving and a safe choice for anyone wanting a different, beautiful, competent, and endearing dive watch. If the devil is in the details, Vulcain has taken care of them – and that is probably what will keep us smiling every time we wind this crown marked with the historic “V,” ready to dive back in time with the first turn of the bezel.