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Test Nivada Grenchen Chronomaster Sea Diver Broad Arrow Inter-Bezel: playful innovation and watchmaking heritage

In watchmaking, true innovations are rare. Most of the time, brands simply reinterpret their great classics with a few technical or aesthetic improvements. That’s why when an original proposition emerges, it deserves our full attention. The Nivada Grenchen Chronomaster Broad Arrow Inter-Bezel is precisely one of those watches that steps off the beaten path.

With its unique tool-free interchangeable bezel system, this reinterpretation of an iconic 1960s model offers a refreshing approach to customization. One watch, five different bezels, and the same timepiece can change character in seconds. This idea, inspired by a vintage Nivada Colorama women’s model, transposed today to a sports chronograph, is typical of the agile approach of an independent house that has successfully risen from its ashes.

Today, I invite you to discover if this Chronomaster, beyond its playful and original functionality, lives up to its promises in terms of quality, precision, and ergonomics.

In a segment between €1,800 and €2,500, facing more established names, does this Nivada have the arguments to convince watch enthusiasts seeking originality without technical compromise?

History of the Nivada Grenchen brand and current positioning

Nivada Grenchen is a brand with a long history, founded in 1926 in Granges (Grenchen), Switzerland. Historically, the house became known for its robust, reliable, and innovative watches, adopted by soldiers and civilians alike in the mid-20th century.

Croton Nivada Antarctic, the watch of Admiral Richard Byrd from the Deep Freeze expedition | moonphase.fr

Its heyday came in the 1950s-60s, with two iconic models: the Antarctic, a resistant watch designed for polar expeditions (notably worn during missions in Antarctica), and the Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver (CASD).

Launched in 1963, the original Chronomaster CASD was one of the very first truly versatile chronographs, designed for aviators, divers, and land adventurers alike. This early tool watch combined a chronograph, a rotating bezel for diving or a second time zone, and a tachymeter and telemeter scale – all elements found in today’s Broad Arrow Inter-Bezel, a sign of its acknowledged heritage. At the time, the Chronomaster won over an audience of insiders thanks to its extraordinary versatility and excellent value for money, becoming a cult piece for many collectors.

Like many independent brands, Nivada suffered from the quartz crisis in the 1970s. The massive arrival of cheap quartz watches caused demand for mechanical watches to plummet, and Nivada Grenchen declined to the point of disappearing from the market in the following decades.

It wasn’t until the wave of vintage watch revival that the brand rose from its ashes. In 2018, thanks to the initiative of Guillaume Laidet (an entrepreneur passionate about watchmaking, also involved in the relaunch of Vulcain and Excelsior Park), Nivada Grenchen was brought back into the spotlight.

The strategy then was to capitalize on the brand’s rich heritage by reissuing its iconic models, but with current technical improvements. This « neo-vintage » philosophy quickly appealed to connoisseurs: the new versions of the Chronomaster Aviator Sea-Diver, the Antarctic, and the diving models Depthmaster and Datomaster, faithfully reproduce the retro design while adopting modern Swiss movements (Sellita SW200, SW510, etc.), current materials (sapphire crystals, Super-LumiNova), and contemporary quality standards.

The current positioning of Nivada Grenchen is that of an independent brand with a very attractive quality-price ratio, aimed at lovers of vintage watches and tool watches. It sits in an intermediate segment: more exclusive and enthusiast-focused than major mainstream brands (Longines, Hamilton…), but much more accessible than high-end collector’s timepieces or certain reissues from major houses. Nivada primarily practices direct online sales, allowing it to offer contained prices without sacrificing manufacturing quality.

Its current catalog emphasizes the brand’s historic sport-chic watches: the 60s-inspired chronographs (Chronomaster, Chronoking) and the diving or exploration watches (Antarctic, Depthmaster).

There is a clear desire to preserve Nivada’s adventurous DNA – versatile, robust watches, ready for anything – while innovating to stand out (for example, the Inter.Bezel system illustrates this). This agile approach is made possible by the small size of the company, which does not hesitate to offer multiple variations, collaborations, and limited series to maintain the enthusiasm of the collector community.

Today, Nivada Grenchen stands as a credible alternative for those who want a characterful watch with vintage charm, without compromising on reliability, and without paying the high price of an established luxury brand. The Chronomaster Broad Arrow Inter-Bezel perfectly embodies this positioning: it is a direct descendant of a legendary brand model, updated with a clever improvement (interchangeable bezel) and offered at a contained price.

Movement precision and performance

The Chronomaster Broad Arrow Inter-Bezel houses a Landeron 70 manual-winding mechanical caliber, a neo-vintage Swiss movement derived from the Valjoux 7750 architecture.

This caliber oscillates at 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour), offering a smooth and precise chronograph seconds hand sweep. The power reserve is approximately 46-48 hours, ensuring almost two days of operation once fully wound.

In terms of precision, the Landeron 70 proves reliable and stable – while not COSC certified, it is designed to deliver performance within the usual tolerances of Swiss movements in this range. Enthusiasts will appreciate the « old school » character of this manual caliber which reconnects with Nivada’s history (Landeron was already a supplier to the brand in the 60s).

The daily winding, smooth and regular, creates a pleasant tactile connection with the watch, typical of traditional chronographs. In use, the chronograph engages with a crisp click. It’s not a high-end column-wheel mechanism, but the Landeron/7750 cam system offers robust and proven activation. Furthermore, if you opt for the optional sapphire case back, the movement reveals neat decoration with Côtes de Genève and blued screws, an appreciable detail in this price range.

Build quality and finishing

From the moment you handle it, the build quality of the Chronomaster Broad Arrow Inter-Bezel impresses. The 38mm diameter 316L stainless steel case alternates between brushed and polished surfaces, highlighting the attractive bevels on the lugs.

This two-tone execution enhances the model’s vintage silhouette while giving it a robust appearance. The front is protected by a double-domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating, mimicking the look of old plexiglass while offering the scratch resistance of modern sapphire.

The case back is screwed down and engraved with the Nivada crest (a transparent sapphire case back is available as an option on some variations), guaranteeing water resistance up to 10 ATM (100m). This high water resistance for a neo-retro chronograph attests to the seriousness of the construction: the watch can safely handle swimming or intensive daily use.

The dial of the Broad Arrow version displays an assertive vintage spirit. On the matte black dial model, the indexes are painted with cream-colored Super-LumiNova imitating aged tritium, and the broad Broad Arrow style hands in polished steel are also filled with this luminescent material.

The whole offers elegant contrast and satisfactory legibility in various conditions, even if the night-time brightness of this « cream » lume is slightly less intense than that of modern white Super-LumiNova. The finish of the dial and sub-dials is impeccable for this price range: recessed counters with subtle snailing, precise printing of the tachymeter and telemeter scales on the periphery, and an applied logo depending on the dial version.

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As Nivada historically collaborated with the manufacturer Singer (designed by Jean Singer) for its dials, some variations feature « exotic dial » details (offset seconds scale in red, square indexes in the sub-dials) that add character.

The overall impression exudes watchmaking seriousness while maintaining a utilitarian philosophy. In summary, the case and dial finishes place this Chronomaster at the level of the best watches in the €1,800–€2,500 range, with no major flaws.

Features and innovation: the interchangeable bezel

The Nivada Chronomaster Broad Arrow Inter-Bezel comes with five interchangeable bezels, shown here next to the watch: four solid versions (black, red, green, faded blue) and one two-tone black/red bezel with city indications.

The defining feature of this Chronomaster is undoubtedly its innovative Inter.Bezel system, which allows the watch bezel to be changed at will, without any tools.

WOMEN'S BRACELET, Colorama VI, Nivada, in case, manual assignment. Clocks & Watches - Wristwatches - Auctionet

Inspired by a vintage model from the 1960s (the Nivada Colorama VI, a small women’s watch sold with several colored bezels), Guillaume Laidet – the entrepreneur behind the revival of Nivada Grenchen – transposed this idea to a modern sports chronograph.

The principle is simple and ingenious: the bezel (the complete piece with its insert, not just the insert) is clipped onto the case via a locking system with four ball bearings. Simply slide a fingernail or fingertip under the bezel and lever it off, then press the new bezel down until you hear an audible click.

No need to precisely align a notch or detent: the bezel is held by friction and can rotate freely in both directions once engaged. The mechanism has been rigorously tested by the brand, the four ball bearings ensuring a secure hold that prevents accidental removal.

However, be careful to properly clip all 4 ball bearings, otherwise the bezel will fall off. Be vigilant as it is quite easy to forget one side at first.

In use, the bidirectional rotation is smooth and seamless, with just enough resistance to stay in place during a time measurement.

The ease of use is such that you find yourself changing the bezel according to your mood, to match the watch to your outfit or the activity of the moment – a real child’s play that no other major brand has yet seriously attempted.

Nivada directly supplies five interchangeable bezels with the Broad Arrow Inter-Bezel, multiplying the faces of the watch. Four of them adopt the style of the bezel from the historic Chronomaster « CASD »: a solid anodized aluminum insert (available colors are black, red, dark olive green, and « ghost » blue) combining a 60-minute scale and 12-hour markers.

This versatile design allows for measuring elapsed time (diving, parking, cooking…) as well as reading a second time zone using the 12h index as a reference. The fifth bezel is the most distinctive: two-tone black and red, it features a city ring with the names of 12 iconic cities instead of the 12 hours.

Designed in the spirit of « worldtime » bezels, it offers an original way to track another time zone by aligning the desired city with the local time – while adding a flamboyant aesthetic touch like a Pepsi GMT bezel.

The manufacturing quality of these bezels is up to par: the anodized aluminum is light yet robust, with sharp paint-filled engravings, and colors that are both sober and varied (the green and blue being deliberately patinated for a vintage look). One might possibly regret that all the supplied bezels, except the worldtime, share the same dual 60min/12h graduation – one could have imagined, for example, a tachymeter, telemeter, or pulsometer bezel to vary the functions.

Nivada also indicates they are considering enriching the offer in the future. Despite this minor drawback, the Inter.Bezel brings a real playful and customizable plus to the watch: in the blink of an eye, you completely change the style of your chronograph (and even partially its function), whereas with the competition, you would need to buy another model or perform more complex modifications.

Ergonomics and wrist comfort

Thanks to its contained 38mm diameter and relatively short lugs, the Chronomaster Broad Arrow Inter-Bezel wears balanced even on an average wrist. The two-tone « world time » bezel adds a touch of originality here without noticeable extra thickness.

In terms of comfort, Nivada chose a 38mm diameter, true to the spirit of the 60s, which will suit a wide range of wrists, including my really thin wrists.

This size, quite small for a chronograph, gives the watch a reasonable presence and avoids any feeling of heaviness. The case, thickened by the chrono movement and the domed crystal, reaches ~13.7mm in thickness, which is substantial for the diameter, but the curved shape of the crystal and the refinement of the profile by the bevels mitigate the perception of this thickness. The lugs are finely tapered and curved towards the wrist, ensuring the watch sits well without excessive pressure points.

Another appreciated detail: the drilled lugs (pierced spring bars), which allow for very easy strap changes using a simple tool or even a pencil point. This reinforces the utilitarian and modular aspect of this Broad Arrow, consistent with its interchangeable bezel concept.

Several strap options are offered originally – tropic rubber, vintage leather, perforated « rally » leather, or steel bracelets with flat links and 60s style beads of rice – all in 20mm width, quickly interchangeable. On tropic rubber, the watch is particularly light and ready for sports use (occasional diving, hiking…).

The « beads of rice » type steel bracelet gives it undeniable retro charm and recognized comfort thanks to its flexibility. On leather, the watch becomes dressier, and the relatively compact case allows it to slip under a shirt cuff despite the thickness.

The crown, non-screw-down to facilitate daily manual winding, is quite prominent and knurled for a good grip. Winding it each morning quickly becomes a ritual, especially since the power reserve encourages daily winding to avoid interrupting the timepiece’s operation. For reading the time, the contrast of the Broad Arrow dial (matte black background, silver hands, and cream indexes) ensures immediate legibility of hours and minutes. The smaller chronograph sub-dials (30 minutes at 3 o’clock, permanent seconds at 9 o’clock) remain readable thanks to their white hands contrasting well against the black or white background depending on the dial version. Ultimately, the Chronomaster Inter-Bezel offers well-thought-out ergonomics: a compact neo-vintage format, contained weight, easy-to-handle controls (crown/pushers), and real everyday wearing comfort.

Value for money in the €1,800–€2,500 range

Sold starting from €1,770 (strap version with solid case back, excluding taxes) – or about US$1,975 –, the Chronomaster Broad Arrow Inter-Bezel sits at the lower end of the targeted price range. At this price, Nivada Grenchen includes all five interchangeable bezels in a box set by default, whereas other brands would likely charge for each insert separately. Even adding the optional sapphire case back or a steel bracelet (+~€200), it remains under the €2,300 mark, placing our Broad Arrow in a very competitive position against similar Swiss or European chronographs.

In terms of features, the Nivada offers a skillful balance between historical heritage, modern specifications, and originality.

The proven design manual chronograph movement ensures reliability and longevity, while being less expensive than a sophisticated manufacture caliber – a rational choice that helps contain the price. The assembly and finishing quality rivals that of more expensive competitors (e.g., Longines Heritage Chrono or TAG Heuer Autavia), and certain details like the 100m water resistance or the caliber decoration are rarely seen in this price bracket. Above all, Nivada offers unique versatility here with its interchangeable bezel system, literally giving five watches in one.

In comparison, an automatic Hamilton Intra-Matic chronograph (approx. €2,000) or a Longines BigEye (~€2,600) offer only a single fixed aesthetic configuration – and none provide the added function of a second time zone via the bezel like the Chronomaster does. Of course, Nivada’s brand recognition is lower than Longines or Hamilton, and this can affect perceived value or resale. But for an informed enthusiast seeking the best value for money, this Broad Arrow Inter-Bezel offers a lot for its price: a true tool chronograph with vintage charm, customizable at will, and produced by a successfully resurrected historical watchmaking house.

Comparison with other models with interchangeable bezels

It must be emphasized, Nivada Grenchen is one of the current pioneers of the interchangeable bezel concept on a mechanical tool watch. Few competitors offer an equivalent system, especially among chronographs. Most brands simply vary the bezel inserts from one model to another, without offering the owner the ability to easily swap them themselves. For example, collectors of Rolex Submariner or GMT Master sometimes do this by changing inserts (Pepsi, Coke, etc.), but this requires specific parts and meticulousness; it’s not an official selling point.

In the €1,800–€2,500 price segment, the Formex Reef is one of the few timepieces to offer a similar customization approach: this modern Swiss dive watch (~€2,000 on a steel bracelet) features a rotating bezel in steel or ceramic that can be removed without tools and swapped for another color or style, instantly changing the watch’s look.

The principle is comparable (simplicity and speed of the swap) although technically different: the Reef uses a secure fastening mechanism for its unidirectional diving bezel, guaranteeing 300m water resistance, whereas the Nivada opts for a bi-directional pressure fitting suitable for mixed land/sea use.

Formex relies on contemporary materials (high-hardness ceramic bezels available) and a COSC-certified automatic chronometer movement to justify its price, while Nivada plays the retro charm card (vintage-look aluminum bezels and historical manual caliber). On the wrist, the Formex Reef (39.5mm) will have a more imposing presence and a decidedly modern style, whereas the 38mm Chronomaster remains discreet and classic.

Finally, Formex charges €160 for each additional bezel.

Other watches offering interchangeable bezels exist mainly in the realm of quartz or fashion models. One might remember, for example, Gucci or Dior watches from the 90s sold in sets with several colored clip-on bezels, but these were women’s jewelry or fashion timepieces, not intended as tool watches and well below Nivada’s watchmaking quality.

Vintage Gucci 1952 Boxed Bracelet Watch with Interchangeable Bezels – Recess

These offers were also in significantly lower price ranges (or conversely, very luxury for some jewelry pieces).

Currently, in the niche of neo-vintage mechanical chronographs, Nivada Grenchen has virtually no direct competition regarding the interchangeable bezel aspect – it’s a differentiating innovation that sets it apart. One might think that other brands may perhaps follow this path if the concept appeals to customers, but for now, the Chronomaster Broad Arrow Inter-Bezel remains an almost unique proposition. This enhances its attractiveness to collectors seeking originality. In summary, compared to « other models of the same style, » the Nivada holds its own thanks to its playful and ingenious concept, while offering serious technical specifications.

This chronograph is not just a gadget: it compares favorably with the best in its category, with the added bonus of aesthetic versatility that no other currently provides.

Conclusion

In conclusion, the Nivada Grenchen Chronomaster Broad Arrow Inter-Bezel establishes itself as a true versatile neo-vintage tool watch, successfully combining heritage and innovation. Its Landeron manual chronograph movement ensures solid performance and will delight purists with its traditional charm. The manufacturing quality is excellent, with a finely finished case, a neat dial, and appreciable robustness (100m water resistance) for a chronograph of this style. Above all, it brings a breath of fresh air to watchmaking with its clever and playful interchangeable bezel concept, which multiplies uses and looks without complicating the user’s life.

In daily wear, its 38mm format and numerous strap options make it comfortable and easily adaptable to all situations. Compared to the competition, few watches offer as much character and modularity for a budget around €2,000 – a segment where the Chronomaster Inter-Bezel clearly stands out as a unique and appealing option.

Finally, placed in the context of Nivada Grenchen’s history, it perfectly symbolizes the brand’s successful revival: taking a cult model from the sixties and injecting enough new ideas to make it attractive and relevant today. For vintage watch lovers seeking a high-performing, endearing timepiece that differs from standardized productions, the Chronomaster Broad Arrow Inter-Bezel is a choice that makes sense, offering a watchmaking experience rich in history but resolutely focused on the pleasure of the present.

Valery

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