Watchmaking in the James Bond saga is not just a matter of accessories. On the contrary, it tells, in its own way, the evolution of an iconic character and our relationship with technology. From the very first film in the saga, the watches worn by 007 have contributed to building the myth, defining his silhouette as much as his Aston Martin or his Walther PPK.
The choice of these timepieces is never trivial. They embody the subtle balance between British elegance and military functionality that characterizes Bond. This duality translates perfectly onto the wrist: a watch refined enough to accompany a tuxedo during a game of baccarat, but robust enough to withstand an underwater mission or close combat.
From Connery’s Rolex Submariner to Craig’s Omegas, each era has had its horological signature, reflecting the spirit of the times and the personality of the actor who portrayed the spy. These watches tell us, in their own way, the story of a character who has managed to remain relevant through six decades of cinema and technological evolution.
Sommaire
Sean Connery (1962–1971) – The First 007 Watches, The Rolex Era
When Sean Connery donned the 007 tuxedo in the early 60s, he immediately defined a timeless style: a subtle blend of British refinement and military robustness. On his wrist, Bond-Connery opted for Swiss sports watches capable of accompanying him on his underwater adventures as well as his casino nights. Rolex thus became inseparable from the secret agent’s early missions, even before product placement came into play.
Rolex Submariner Ref. 6538 “Big Crown” – The Bond Icon of the 60s
Films: Dr. No (1962), From Russia with Love (1963), Goldfinger (1964).
Description: Known as « the James Bond Submariner, » the Rolex Submariner reference 6538 is arguably the most iconic 007 watch. 38mm steel case, large crown (« Big Crown ») without crown guards, simple black dial with luminescent markers and triangle – a true diving toolwatch, waterproof and streamlined. Worn on a steel Oyster bracelet in Dr. No, it is later seen on an anthracite NATO strap with striped edges (black/green/red) in Goldfinger, a « military style » touch that became cult. This Submariner accompanies Bond on his first missions of the sixties, whether in a tuxedo at the baccarat table or in a diving suit in the tropics. It embodies the agent’s blend of elegance and robustness. Fun fact: Ian Fleming, Bond’s creator, was himself a Rolex enthusiast (he wore an Explorer 1016), which undoubtedly influenced this choice on screen.
Notable features: Rolex automatic caliber 1030 movement, unidirectional rotating bezel marked 0-60 (without clicks at the time), water resistance tested to 100 meters. No integrated gadget for this watch (Bond had to rely on his natural charm or his famous Walther PPK), but its NATO strap became such an associated accessory with Bond that it is sometimes nicknamed « the James Bond NATO. » This nylon strap, initially designed for British military personnel, ensured the watch remained on the wrist even if a spring bar broke. Practical for a secret agent always on the move!
How to get it: The original Rolex Submariner 6538 from Bond is now a highly sought-after collector’s item (fetching hundreds of thousands of euros at auction). For collectors, browse vintage Submariner auctions. For a more accessible alternative inspired by this model, you can opt for a modern « James Bond » NATO strap (e.g., the black-green-red nylon NATO model) on which to mount a current diver’s watch with a retro look. The 007 style is on your wrist, minus the international espionage!
Breitling Top Time “Geiger” – The Gadget Chronograph from Thunderball (1965)
Film: Thunderball (1965).
Description: First appearance of a watch gadget in the Bond saga! In Thunderball, Q gives 007 a modified Breitling Top Time chronograph to serve as a Geiger counter. At first glance, it’s an elegant steel chronograph from the 60s: round case ~35-36 mm, black dial with two sub-dials (bicompax), manual chronograph movement. But the trick lies in the case back: Bond uses it to detect the radiation from the stolen nuclear warheads. A real spy tool from Q’s lab, disguised as a classic wristwatch. Historically, it is a Breitling Top Time ref. 2002 or 2003 modified for the film.
Notable features: Chronograph function (time measurement with central seconds hand and 30-minute totalizer), and of course the integrated Geiger counter (fictional in the film) allowing detection of radioactivity underwater. Waterproof? Yes in the film, Bond uses it during his final dive. In reality, the Top Time was a sporty chic chronograph, but not specifically a diver. Style-wise, its black leather strap and discreet design allowed 007 to wear it with a tuxedo without raising suspicion, while having a state-of-the-art scientific instrument at his service. Fun fact: The actual example of this gadget watch was lost for decades before reappearing in 2013 at a car boot sale in England, to be resold at auction for ~£100,000 – proof that Bond magic also works in watchmaking.
How to get it: Breitling has since reissued the Top Time (without Geiger counter) in limited series, but the original from the sixties is mainly found second-hand. On specialized sites, you can hunt for the vintage Breitling Top Time. For a similar new look, the Hamilton brand offers the Intra-Matic chronograph series which recalls these 60s bicompax models. And who knows, maybe Q will install a secret gadget for you upon request…
Gruen Precision 510 – Bond’s Elegant Discreet Watch
Films: You Only Live Twice (1967), Diamonds Are Forever (1971).
Description: Less famous, but still seen on Connery’s wrist in his last two official Bond appearances, the Gruen Precision is a fine gold dress watch. It is believed to be a Gruen 510 Precision, gold dial and leather strap, which Bond wears, for example, in a suit in Diamonds Are Forever. On screen, it is little highlighted and has no gadget – far from explosive watches. But it reflects 007’s taste for classicism when he is not on a commando mission.
Notable features: Dress watch with manual winding mechanical movement, discreet yellow gold case (~34 mm), two-hand display or central seconds hand depending on sources. It’s the kind of watch Bond can slip under his shirt cuff during a gala without attracting attention, unlike the large, conspicuous dive watches. Why does Connery wear it at the end of the 60s? Perhaps to match the less action-oriented scenes, or simply because Rolex was no longer available on those shoots. Regardless, it shows that Bond knows how to adapt his watch to the occasion: sporty for dangerous missions, sober and elegant for infiltrating casinos.
The Gruen Precision is available here on Catawiki (many rare models and great auction opportunities)
How to get it: Vintage Gruen watches abound on the second-hand market at affordable prices. Don’t hesitate to look for a period Gruen Precision. For a current approaching style, a small gold dress watch (e.g., a Tissot Everytime in gold PVD) will do the trick – it won’t blow up a villain’s lair, but it will perfectly complement a Bond-style tuxedo look.
George Lazenby (1969) – The Ephemeral Bond with Two Rolexes
George Lazenby portrayed 007 only once, in On Her Majesty’s Secret Service (1969). Yet, the Australian playboy made a mark on watch enthusiasts by wearing two distinct Rolexes during this single film! Lazenby, younger and less experienced as an actor, nevertheless had good watch taste: a Submariner for action, and a chronograph for style (especially during Bond’s famous wedding scene).
Rolex Submariner Ref. 5513 – The Diver of OHMSS
Film: On Her Majesty’s Secret Service (1969).
Description: Successor to the ref 6538, the Rolex Submariner 5513 is the worthy heir on Bond/Lazenby’s wrist. It is recognizable by its slightly larger case (40 mm) with crown guards, its black bezel graduated to 60 minutes, and its black dial without date. In the film, Bond notably uses it to time the opening of Gumbold’s safe – a scene during which his Submariner is mounted on a clearly visible « Geneva bracelet » (riveted Oyster type). This 5513 model embodies the evolution of the Sub: improved robustness, slightly modernized design, while retaining the sober and ultra-legible look befitting 007’s missions.
Notable features: Rolex automatic caliber 1520 movement (the 5513 was not a chronometer, unlike its sister 5512), water resistance increased to 200m, and still that sporty elegance. No integrated gadgets in the watch itself – OHMSS relies more on Bond’s skills and… the gadgets of his Mercury Cougar or his team. Style-wise, the 5513 accompanies Bond in ski attire in the Alps as well as in a three-piece suit at Draco’s. It almost becomes an extension of himself, reliable in adversity (and there is plenty, facing Blofeld in this installment!).
How to get it: The Submariner 5513 is highly prized by vintage collectors, produced from 1962 to 1989. You can search for one or opt for the modern reissue of the Sub without date (ref 124060) at Rolex. Failing that, neo-vintage alternatives like the Tudor Black Bay 58 offer Bondian retro charm and are available new. Like Bond, don’t forget the detail: wear it on a riveted steel bracelet or even a grey NATO for that elegant OSS 117 style.
Rolex Chronograph Ref. 6238 “Pre-Daytona” – The Safe-Cracking Ally
Film: On Her Majesty’s Secret Service (1969).
Description: Lazenby also wore a Rolex chronograph on his wrist during the film – notable because it’s the only time in the official saga that James Bond wears an analog chrono. This timepiece is a Rolex Chronograph ref. 6238, nicknamed « pre-Daytona » because it precedes the famous Daytona. Steel case ~36 mm, silver dial with three counters, this chic model appears during the scene where Bond, disguised as Sir Hilary Bray, hacks Gumbold’s safe. The watch is glimpsed as he adjusts his mini document copier. It also makes an appearance during Bond and Tracy’s wedding, highlighting that 007 also knows how to choose distinguished watches for grand occasions.
Notable features: Manual winding mechanical chronograph (Rolex Valjoux 72 caliber), 3 sub-dials (30-minute counter, 12-hour counter, small seconds), tachymeter on peripheral scale on some models. It is a more refined watch, without a rotating bezel – very gentleman driver. Bond doesn’t use it as a gadget, but one can imagine he appreciated its precise timing for synchronizing his safe-cracking! In any case, seeing it on 007’s arm adds a touch of old money elegance to this film.
How to get it: The original 6238 model is ultra-collectible (stratospheric price, especially since it’s known one was worn by Bond). Look for a vintage Rolex « pre-Daytona » chronograph. For a more reasonable budget, look towards the Tissot Heritage 1948 or the Hamilton Intra-Matic Chronograph: their neo-retro looks are inspired by 60s chronos and will perfectly create the illusion at the next cocktail party, with a hint of shaken, not stirred.
Roger Moore (1973–1985) – The Era of Quartz and Exuberant Gadgets
With Roger Moore, the Bond style evolves towards more fantasy and high-tech. The 70s and 80s see the explosion of quartz watches, and 007 adopts these futuristic novelties on screen. During Moore’s 7 films, Bond wears a veritable watch parade: from the very first digital LED display to wristwatches equipped with magnets, circular saws, telegraph printers, or even television! Rolex remains present at the beginning, but Seiko quickly establishes itself as the official supplier of wrist gadgets. This period is a treat for the geeky watch fan: Bond is seen changing watches almost every mission, depending on the required gadgets. Overview of the striking pieces from the Moore era:
Hamilton Pulsar P2 2900 LED – Bond Goes Futuristic Digital
Film: Live and Let Die (1973).
Description: In the pre-title sequence of his first film, Roger Moore immediately establishes that his Bond will be at the forefront of the era’s technology: he checks the time on a digital watch with a red LED display. This is the Hamilton Pulsar P2 « Astronaut, » the first mass-market digital watch. Futuristic cushion-shaped steel case, no hands but a black screen displaying the time in red luminescent digits at the press of a button. In 1973, this was the very latest innovation – and James Bond adopts it right away, marking the entry into the electronic age. 007 is seen consulting this Pulsar in bed alongside Miss Caruso, a gadget far more impressive for the time than any Rolex!
Notable features: Red LED (light-emitting diode) display, requiring a button press to save battery – very retro today but ultra-modern in ’73. No additional features (no date on this initial model). The case is stainless steel, quite massive but without a crown or buttons other than the single pusher. Style-wise, the integrated steel bracelet and sleek design highlighted Moore’s « agent of the future » aspect. This Pulsar had no additional Q gadget – its mere existence was one! It also symbolizes the socio-technical transition: Bond, a character born in the mechanical Cold War, embraces the quartz revolution.
The Hamilton Pulsar is available here on Catawiki (many rare models and great auction opportunities)
How to get it: The original Hamilton Pulsar P2 is rare (limited collector’s edition). However, Hamilton celebrated its heritage in 2020 with the Hamilton PSR, a modernized reissue of the Pulsar, combining LED and LCD, available new. For enthusiasts, one can try to find a functional vintage Pulsar on auction sites. Vintage gadget lovers will also find retro digital watches from specialists in the genre. And if you simply want to play the 70s agent, a vintage Casio with an LED display will make your geek friends smile.
Rolex Submariner Ref. 5513 (buzz-saw & magnet) – The Gadgetized Rolex of 1973
Film: Live and Let Die (1973).
Description: Roger Moore also inherits the famous Submariner 5513, but in his case, Q-Branch seriously modified it! In Live and Let Die, Bond’s Rolex Sub integrates an ultra-powerful electromagnet capable of deflecting bullets (and more usefully, remotely unzipping Miss Caruso’s dress in a cult scene!). Later, Bond uses the watch’s notched rotating bezel which, powered by a motor, transforms into a real circular saw to cut ropes. Visually, the watch remains a steel Submariner on an Oyster bracelet, black dial without date – the same classic appearance. But this Sub 5513 is the perfect example of how Bond gadgets become more extravagant in the Moore era, while retaining the basic elegance of the watch.
Notable features: Besides the normal specs of the 5513 (automatic, 200m water resistant, 60-minute bezel), add: an electromagnet activated via the bezel (in fiction) powerful enough to attract a silver spoon from over a meter away, and a circular saw blade hidden under the rotating bezel, capable of sawing thick ropes. Reality, of course, was less functional: two prop watches were used for these special effects, one with a cable to attract metal objects off-screen, the other with a prop saw blade operated by compressed air. No matter, on screen the illusion works and this Rolex becomes one of the most legendary Bond watches.
How to get it: A period Rolex Submariner 5513, without gadgets, can be found second-hand (see the Lazenby section above). If you want the spirit of the 1973 one, know that several homage brands offer modified « Bond Subs. » Otherwise, opt for a classic dive watch and get yourself an ultra-powerful magnet separately – but be careful with your electronic devices when handling it! For fans, the original Live and Let Die Submariner was sold at auction (~CHF 365,000 in 2015), but one can take solace in the current Rolex Sub range which continues to embody this mix of luxury and adventure.
Seiko 0674 LC (Quartz printer) – The Spy’s Message
Film: The Spy Who Loved Me (1977).
Description: Late 1977, Bond definitively trades Swiss mechanics for Japanese avant-garde. In The Spy Who Loved Me, Roger Moore wears a Seiko 0674 LC, a quartz watch with a digital display (LCD this time, not red LED) equipped with a unique function: it can print messages on a small paper tape! In the film, Bond receives a printed message from HQ coming out of his watch (“007 EMERGENCY MESSAGE – XXX –”), a wild gadget symbolizing futuristic miniaturization. The watch itself is a Seiko with a very 70s design: rectangular steel case, steel bracelet, green/gray liquid crystal display. It’s less chic than a Rolex, but what a techno effect!
Notable features: LCD (Liquid Crystal Display) in black digits on a light background – a first for Bond. The 0674 model is equipped in the film with an internal mini-printer (pure fiction of course: no mass-market model did this). At the time, Seiko offered multi-function watches (calendar, alarm) but no printer. No matter, the magic of cinema works: the small strip of paper coming out of the side of the watch made a mark. Style-wise, it is worn by Bond in Egypt under a light suit – note the modernity of his wrist contrasting with the exoticism of the pyramids.
The Seiko 0674 is available here on Catawiki (many rare models and great auction opportunities)
How to get it: The Seiko LC 0674 model is now a vintage collector’s item. Search forums and second-hand sales sites to try to find a functional one. Seiko released so many digital watches at the time that equivalents (without a printer, alas) are relatively easy to find. One can find vintage digital Seikos or even reissues. And if you really want to print from your wrist, you’ll have to tinker – or wait until smartwatches are capable one day… In the meantime, a good old smartwatch with notifications will do the job for receiving secret messages 😉.
Seiko M354 Memory Bank – The Bomb Watch from Moonraker (1979)
Film: Moonraker (1979).
Description: Facing Drax’s space technologies, Bond equips himself with a high-tech watch: a Seiko M354 Memory Bank, a digital watch with an LCD display which, in the film, serves as a remote detonator. Almost square in shape with a large digital screen, this Seiko allows Bond to arm and then detonate C4 charges. It stores the countdown in memory (hence its name Memory Bank). In reality, the M354 model was an alarm/calendar watch offering the memorization of an alarm date/time – a notable innovation for the time, repurposed as an “explosives timer” by Q for 007’s needs.
Notable features: Brushed steel case, digital screen with multiple lines (to display time and date or a second time zone). Programmable alarm/memo function (hence the name Memory Bank). In Moonraker, this function is re-imagined as a bomb countdown. Bond sets his watch, the screen flashes a countdown, then he looks at it with satisfaction as the plastic charge blows the lock off a safe. Style-wise, it’s far from a piece of jewelry – it’s a tool watch, matching Bond’s combat gear in the launch base.
The Seiko M354 is available here on Catawiki (many rare models and great auction opportunities)
How to get it: Seiko Memory Banks from the 70s are still found second-hand, appreciated by retro-tech fans. You can scan online sales for a Seiko M354 model. Otherwise, for the nod, any watch with a countdown or alarm will do – or even a vintage Casio calculator watch for the assumed nerd style. But remember: don’t try to blow anything up at home with it, leave that to 007 (or the bomb disposal experts)!
Seiko H357 Duo-Display – Secret Communication in For Your Eyes Only (1981)
Film: For Your Eyes Only (1981).
Description: Bond continues to explore the Seiko catalog. This time, it’s an analog-digital model, the Seiko H357 Duo-Display, that adorns his wrist. A particularly advanced watch for the time, it combines a classic dial with hands and a small digital screen. In the film, this H357 serves as a communication terminal: Q sends Bond a text message that displays on the mini-screen (a technique similar to that of 1977, but more realistic). Bond is thus seen reading the word “ATTAC” (name of the missile command system) on his watch during a scene with Melina Havelock. Aesthetically, the H357 is sporty: steel case, steel bracelet, black dial, and digital display at 6 o’clock.
Notable features: Dual display (hands + LCD) – a technological feat in 1981. Alarm function, date, and of course the ability to display messages (in real life, the screen was used for seconds and alarm, not receiving SMS!). Decent water resistance (Bond briefly dives with it). This Seiko illustrates the best of both worlds: the immediate readability of hands for the time, and the potential of digital for other info. In FYEO, it has no destructive gadget, but its role in the plot is crucial for transmitting info without being spotted.
The Seiko H357 is available here on Catawiki (many rare models and great auction opportunities)
How to get it: The Seiko H357-5040 “Duo-Display” is sought after by collectors of Bond watches. Start your quest on auction sites or with Seiko vintage specialists. Today, analog-digital watches still exist (e.g., some Casio Edifice or G-Shock), or opt for a hybrid smartwatch. Either way, you’ll have a piece of the high-tech Bond legacy on your wrist, and perhaps the nostalgia of 8-bit beeps as a bonus.
Seiko TV Watch (T001) – 007 at the Time of Portable Television
Film: Octopussy (1983).
Description: Long before the Apple Watch and Netflix on mobile, James Bond had… television on his wrist! In Octopussy, Q provides 007 with the Seiko T001 known as the “TV Watch,” a watch capable of receiving television. It’s a two-part device: the watch itself, quite bulky with an LCD screen, and a portable receiver connected by a cable (which Bond hides in his jacket). Bond is seen using this TV Watch to follow the live image from a hidden camera during a circus scene – an ideal gadget for a spy on stakeout. The design is resolutely 80s, a bit massive, foreshadowing today’s multifunction watches.
Notable features: LCD screen approximately 1.2 inches, displaying a black and white image. The watch integrates the speaker and controls, while the TV tuner is external. This Seiko obviously indicates the time and date when one is not watching Dallas on the go. Octopussy is the only Bond where 007 wears a watch not for the time or a spy tool, but squarely for live video – a crazy concept for 1983. One guesses the resolution wasn’t fantastic, but no matter, Bond had TV on him!
The Seiko TV Watch is available here on Catawiki (many rare models and great auction opportunities)
How to get it: The original Seiko T001 is now a very kitsch collector’s item. It is sometimes found for sale in varying conditions (often non-functional). It symbolizes an era when people dreamed of carrying their TV everywhere. Nowadays, to have TV on the wrist, nothing could be simpler: a 4G connected watch does much better… But admit that wearing the bulky original Seiko TV at a geek convention would have style and would instantly spark nostalgic conversations.
Seiko Watches from A View to a Kill (1985) – Roger Moore’s Final Trio
Film: A View to a Kill (1985).
Description: For his last mission as 007, Roger Moore doesn’t settle for just one watch – he wears three different ones throughout the film, all by Seiko. First, during the famous opening scene in Siberia, Bond wears a Seiko Diver H558-5000 (ana-digital dive watch, nicknamed “Arnie” because Schwarzenegger wore it in his films). It is recognizable by its robust black case and its analog + digital display, ideal for extreme environments. Then, in more formal attire in Paris, 007 sports a two-tone Seiko Quartz Ref. 6923-8080 with a more classic style (white dial, gold indices, steel/gold bracelet) – discreet under a suit. Finally, during the final mission in the Silicon Valley mine, Bond uses a Seiko chronograph Ref. 7A28-7020 (white dial, steel case) equipped with a hidden micro-transmitter (Q tells him it serves as a tracker/transmitter so they can locate Bond if he is buried). This trio illustrates the versatility of Bond/Moore, knowing how to adapt his watch to each situation in A View to a Kill.
Notable features: The Seiko H558 model is a resistant dive watch, with a digital screen for the secondary time/alarm and a main analog dial – very readable, quartz caliber with a thermometer in reality, Bond simply uses it for the time in the ski chase scene.
The Seiko H558 is available here on Catawiki (many rare models and great auction opportunities)
The Seiko 6923-8080 is a two-tone dress watch, quartz analog, date at 3 o’clock – it briefly appears as a suit accessory, proof that Bond doesn’t always wear a mission tool on his wrist if he doesn’t need it at the moment.
The Seiko 6923 is available here on Catawiki (many rare models and great auction opportunities)
Finally, the Seiko 7A28-7020 is interesting: it is the world’s first analog quartz chronograph (caliber 7A28), here with a lovely cream dial. In the film, it also has a role as a transmitter gadget (Bond wears it when he is trapped in the flooded mine, and thanks to its signal, Gogol and Q find him at the end).
The Seiko 7A28 is available here on Catawiki (many rare models and great auction opportunities)
How to get them: These models can be found on the vintage market. The Seiko H558 “Arnie” was even reissued in 2019 (Prospex SNJ025) – you can find it new quite easily. The Seiko 7A28, on the other hand, is a grail for collectors of quartz chronos – scour auction sites to try your luck on a 7A28-7020. As for the two-tone Seiko 6923, it is less iconic but represents the “1980s city watch” look well and can be found second-hand at a low price. Thus ends the Roger Moore era, rich with more watches than all the other Bonds combined, reflecting a time when 007 was a true geek ahead of his time in watch gadgets.
Timothy Dalton (1987–1989) – Return to Realism, Between TAG Heuer and Rolex
Timothy Dalton embodies a darker James Bond, closer to the original novels, and this is also reflected in his choice of watches: gone are the wacky gadgets, replaced by pragmatic functionality. At the end of the 80s, Bond opts for robust tool watches. It is also the transition between two watchmaking eras: Dalton first wears a quartz watch (Bond had never worn a TAG Heuer before him), then returns to Rolex in his last adventure – marking the end of the Bond-Rolex association on screen.
TAG Heuer Professional Night Diver Ref. 980.031 – The Spy of Darkness
Film: The Living Daylights (1987).
Description: In his first film, Dalton sports a black, tactical dive watch, suitable for night operations: the TAG Heuer Night Diver reference 980.031. This quartz diver, from Heuer’s 1000 series, is recognizable by its fully luminescent yellow-green dial that glows in the dark. Matte black PVD-coated steel case, black unidirectional bezel, contrasting indices and hands – a stealthy look but maximum legibility at night thanks to the full lume. Its luminescent dial is clearly visible in the scene where Bond uses the watch during a parachute jump and then during the infiltration of the Soviet base. This choice of watch perfectly matches the more realistic and military tone of The Living Daylights.
Notable features: Quartz movement (reliable and precise, no need for winding for a frequently traveling Bond), 200m water resistant, Luminova “Full lume” dial (on the editions of the time, tritium covering the entire surface of the dial under the paint). It features a screw-down crown and a 60-minute bezel – classic for any diver. No special gadget integrated by Q; this timepiece is simply Bond’s diving and night mission tool. Fun detail: while Moore sported ostentatious watches, Dalton displays with this model a desire for operational discretion, prioritizing functionality (reading the time in the darkness of an aircraft hideout or underwater) over flamboyant style. A 007-soldier’s watch, in short.
How to get it: The original TAG Heuer Night Diver 980.031 model is now highly sought after in vintage – especially since it is known as “Dalton’s watch.” You can try your luck on auction platforms. TAG Heuer recently released inspired reissues, such as the Aquaracer Night Diver 2021, which modernizes this concept of a luminescent dial. If you like the commando style, other alternatives exist: for example, the Seiko “Arnie” SNJ025 mentioned earlier also has this black tactical look. Regardless, wearing the Dalton-version Bond watch is a nod to the 80s but remains furiously cool and usable daily.
Rolex Submariner Date Ref. 16610 – Bond’s Last Rolex
Film: Licence to Kill (1989).
Description: For his second, more personal and vengeful adventure, Bond/Dalton returns to his roots: a Rolex Submariner. More precisely, he wears a Submariner Date ref. 16610 on an Oyster bracelet, identifiable by its black dial with a date window at 3 o’clock equipped with the cyclops magnifier. It is clearly visible when Bond checks the time while preparing Sanchez’s helicopter escape at the beginning of the film. This watch accompanies him throughout Licence to Kill, including when he operates independently (Bond having “resigned,” no more Q gadgets available). It’s a symbolic choice: the Sub date 16610 was, in the late 80s, a novelty embodying Rolex’s durability, while Bond goes through a solitary ordeal. Note that this is the last screen appearance of a Rolex on 007’s wrist in the official EON series – the end of an era before switching to Omega in the 90s.
Notable features: Submariner reference 16610 – 40mm steel case, Rolex automatic caliber 3135, 300m water resistant, unidirectional bezel, indices and hands with tritium. The presence of the date with Cyclops distinguishes it from previous models worn by Bond. No particular gadget, but it is known behind the scenes that several examples were used, including one on an Oyster bracelet for Dalton, and another on a diving bracelet for his stunt double (some fans note variations in some shots). In Bond history, this Sub embodies a return to seriousness, to proven reliability – like Dalton himself, very no-nonsense in the role.
How to get it: The Submariner 16610, produced from approximately 1988 to 2010, is a very popular model on the second-hand market today. You can find one relatively easily through specialized dealers or online auctions. Its design having remained almost unchanged, wearing a 16610 today is absolutely not shocking, it’s a timeless classic. And you will have the satisfaction of saying it’s “the last Rolex of James Bond” – a great conversation starter among enthusiasts, to be washed down with a Vodka Martini (shaken, of course).
Pierce Brosnan (1995–2002) – The Alliance with Omega: The Seamaster 300M Becomes Mythical
After a long pause, Bond returns in 1995 in the guise of Pierce Brosnan. This marks the beginning of a new era, characterized by a now legendary partnership: Omega becomes the official watch of 007. The choice falls on the Seamaster Diver 300M, a model that combines maritime heritage (Bond is a Commander in the Royal Navy) and modern elegance. Under Brosnan, the blue Seamaster will see variations and integrate various gadgets in each film. This collaboration will anchor Omega in the collective imagination as “the James Bond watch” for millions of viewers. Let’s detail the watches worn by Brosnan over his 4 films:
Omega Seamaster Professional 300M Quartz – The Watch from GoldenEye (1995)
Film: GoldenEye (1995).
Description: For his first mission, Brosnan’s Bond sports the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Quartz ref. 2541.80. It is this watch, with an ocean blue dial and steel blue rotating bezel, that Xenia Onatopp spots on Bond’s wrist during their encounter (cult dialogue: “Nice watch.” – “Omega.”). The quartz model chosen by the production has a 41mm steel case, a five-link steel bracelet (recognizable brushed/polished alternation), and a blue dial with a wave pattern and luminescent indices. In GoldenEye, this Seamaster is equipped by Q with a laser in the bezel (Bond uses it to cut the floor of Trevelyan’s armored train) and a remote detonator for the explosive charge he places in the said scene. It immediately establishes the image of the “modern Bond” – sophisticated style (the blue echoes Brosnan’s eyes and his naval suit), while brimming with secret features.
Notable features: Omega quartz caliber 2541 movement (ultra-precise, battery life of 2-3 years), 41mm steel case, unidirectional 60-click bezel with blue insert, helium escape valve at 10 o’clock (signature of Seamaster Pro). Water resistant to 300m of course, skeleton hands with luminova. Q’s gadgets: integrated laser (apparently emerging from the top of the dial), and remote firing mechanism – in the film, Bond taps the watch twice to arm the bomb, and once more to detonate it. Fun fact: The production used prop watches for close-ups of the laser, etc., but the effect on the audience was successful – many indelibly associate Omega and James Bond thereafter.
The Omega Seamaster is available here on Catawiki (many rare models and great auction opportunities)
How to get it: The quartz model from GoldenEye, ref. 2541.80, is no longer produced but can still be found second-hand at affordable prices (often cheaper than the automatic versions). Otherwise, Omega still offers the Seamaster Diver 300M in its current collection, with evolutions (co-axial, sapphire case back, etc.). The most visually similar modern version is reference 212.30.41.20.03.001 (automatic). You can look for the Seamaster 300M “James Bond” at official retailers, and even limited edition 007 models are released regularly. Wearing the blue Seamaster means embracing a bit of Brosnan’s phlegm and the suave heroism of the 90s – beware, you might risk quoting lines from GoldenEye every time someone compliments your watch!
Omega Seamaster Professional 300M Automatic – The Brosnan Era 1997–2002
Films: Tomorrow Never Dies (1997), The World Is Not Enough (1999), Die Another Day (2002).
Description: After GoldenEye, the production switched to the automatic version of the Seamaster Diver 300M for the next three films, specifically ref. 2531.80. Visually, no major change: still that navy blue dial with wave pattern, midnight blue bezel, 41mm steel case.
The difference lies in the details: the second hand now features a lollipop (luminescent circle) instead of a red arrow, indicating the Omega 1120 automatic caliber (based on ETA 2892-A2) and not quartz. Brosnan thus wears the same watch in appearance, but each of his missions brings him specific gadgets via this model:
- In Tomorrow Never Dies (1997), the Seamaster integrates a remote detonator to trigger a charge at will (Bond uses it to explode a bomb in Carver’s base – the watch receives a signal from his Ericsson phone for ignition, a team effort of gadgets!).
- In The World Is Not Enough (1999), it contains a grappling hook: a mini-crossbow propels a piton with a rappel line from the watch, allowing Bond to escape from a silo amidst an avalanche, then from the dome of Renard’s silo. A memorable use is the scene where Bond uses his grappling hook watch to pull the out-of-reach Bollinger champagne bottle towards him, proving that humor is never far away.
- In Die Another Day (2002), the watch again features a laser (this time at the bezel level, as a nod to GoldenEye) to escape Gustav Graves’ ice palace. It also serves as a detonator to trigger the C4 explosive mines at the end of the film (Bond shows it to Jinx saying “I’m going to press this button”).
Notable features: For the watch itself, Omega automatic caliber, ~44h power reserve, date function at 3 o’clock, all steel, still that famous helium escape valve that intrigues the uninitiated (Bond never explicitly uses it in a film, it’s more for diving authenticity). Gadget-wise, note that the Brosnan era standardized the detonator watch (present in all his films) and made two nods to the laser. The 1999 grappling hook is arguably the most fanciful mechanism, and enchanted many young viewers (how many tried to use their poor Casio as a grappling hook after that?…).
The Omega Seamaster is available here on Catawiki (many rare models and great auction opportunities)
How to get it: The reference 2531.80 “Bond” is highly prized, but relatively accessible on the second-hand market as it was produced in large numbers. Otherwise, Omega released an anniversary reissue in 2020 called the “007 25th Anniversary” inspired by Brosnan’s Seamaster. Seamaster 007 Edition watches in limited series are also found. By wearing a blue automatic Seamaster, you are undeniably part of the club – you can look down on your surroundings with a knowing air, pronouncing “Nice watch… Omega?”, with the cracking confidence of Pierce Brosnan in top form.
Daniel Craig (2006–2021) – Between Tradition and Innovation: Omega Revisited
The arrival of Daniel Craig in 2006 marks a complete reboot of Bond. More raw, more realistic, Craig also brings a certain attachment to heritage (he reconnects with a vintage Aston Martin and some historical watch nods) while continuing the collaboration with Omega. Over five films, Craig wore numerous Omega references, varying styles: Seamaster Diver always, but also Seamaster Planet Ocean, Aqua Terra, and even a vintage reissue Seamaster 300. His watches are less packed with fictional gadgets – the Craig era returns to a more realistic use of watches, reflecting Bond’s state of mind or mission needs without too many fanciful artifices. Let’s discover these models:
Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Co-Axial – The Return of the Classic “Bond” (2006)
Film: Casino Royale (2006).
Description: In the film retracing Bond’s beginnings, Craig wears two watches. The first, in civilian clothes and during the famous poker game, is the latest evolution of the “classic” blue Seamaster 300M: ref. 2220.80.00.
This version is very close to Brosnan’s, but equipped with the Omega Co-Axial caliber 2500. Red-tipped seconds hand, blue wave dial, steel case and bracelet – the look is unchanged. Vesper Lynd notices it on the train (“Rolex?” she asks – “Omega” Bond replies, thus closing the gag started in 1995). This watch can be seen on Bond’s wrist when he is in a tuxedo at the Casino Royale, a symbol that he has “earned his stripes” and adopted the iconic 007 style.
Notable features: Co-axial automatic movement (greater precision and longer service intervals), 41mm case, still 300m water resistant. No Q gadgets in Casino Royale – the film’s more realistic tone means Bond has no such fanciful equipment. His watch serves “just” to tell the time, and possibly to shine in society. This Seamaster somehow embodies the passing of the torch: the familiar object from the 90s is found in a totally renewed and more serious context. Fun fact: In Casino Royale, Bond alternately wears this Seamaster and a Planet Ocean model (see below). The blue Seamaster 300M is used for the more “chic” scenes while the black/orange Planet Ocean accompanies him in physical action, marking a division of roles between two Omega watches.
The Omega Seamaster is available here on Catawiki (many rare models and great auction opportunities)
How to get it: Omega still produces the Seamaster Diver 300M, the current version (co-axial Master Chronometer, ref. 210.30.42.20.03.001) is slightly larger (42mm) and integrates the latest technologies, while retaining the overall design.
One can easily buy a new one. If you insist on the precise 2006 reference 2220.80, the second-hand market is your friend. Regardless, sporting the blue Seamaster from Casino Royale amounts to saying: “I know my worth, I don’t need lasers or flashy gadgets.” It’s the watch of a Bond returning to basics.
Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean – The Ally of Action Scenes (2006–2012)
Films: Casino Royale (2006), Quantum of Solace (2008), Skyfall (2012).
Description: Craig’s other favorite watch is the Seamaster Planet Ocean, larger and more masculine. In Casino Royale, he wears a Planet Ocean 45.5mm co-axial caliber (ref. 2900.50.91) at the beginning of the film, notably during the Madagascar chase and the mission in the Bahamas. This model has a black dial and a black bezel, on a black rubber strap – very sporty. It symbolizes the “field agent” Bond, muscular and functional.
In Quantum of Solace, Craig opts for the new generation Planet Ocean 600m, in 42mm size this time (ref. 2201.50.00, black bezel, steel bracelet). Finally, in Skyfall, in addition to his Aqua Terra (see below), Bond wears a Planet Ocean 600m (ref. 232.30.42.21.01.001, 42mm) during the intro sequence in Istanbul. Each time, the Planet Ocean accompanies Bond in intense action: chases, fights, jumps, etc., where its extreme robustness and sporty look work wonders.
Notable features: The Planet Ocean range is distinguished by increased water resistance (600m), a helium escape valve, and on some models a touch of orange color (the first from 2006 had the “Seamaster” inscription and the numbers on the bezel in orange).
Co-axial movement in all (calibers 2500 then 8500 depending on the years). Chronometer certified timepiece obviously. These watches have no fictional gadgets in the Craig saga – they are presented as Bond’s standard equipment. Moreover, they suffer the ravages of missions: for example, the Planet Ocean from QoS is seen covered in tunnel dust after Bond’s fall onto a rope net. This realism pleased Craig who wanted Bond to “wear out” his accessories.
How to get it: Omega Planet Oceans are permanently available at Omega with various sizes and colors. The precise reference from QoS (2201.50.00) is discontinued but easy to find second-hand. The Planet Ocean has become a pillar of the Omega line – it’s an ideal choice if you want a “Bond watch” a little different from the classic blue Seamaster. With its modern toolwatch look, it says: “I’m ready to get dirty on a mission.” And as Omega’s advertising campaign reminded us during the Craig era, the Planet Ocean is “the watch that can save the world” – or at least help a certain agent do it!
Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra – The Elegance of the Agent in Civilian Clothes (2012, 2015)
Films: Skyfall (2012), Spectre (2015).
Description: In Craig’s films, Bond is seen off-mission, or at least outside tactical contexts – for these moments, he sports a dressier watch: the Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra. In Skyfall, he wears an Aqua Terra “Mid Size” 38.5mm with a blue dial (ref. 231.10.39.21.03.001) during his recovery and in London. Then in Spectre, it’s an Aqua Terra 41.5mm blue dial model (ref. 231.10.42.21.03.003) that he wears during the pre-title sequence in Mexico City (suit/tie attire, Day of the Dead) and later in London while investigating.
The Aqua Terra is a more classic watch, without a rotating bezel, resembling an elegant all-around three-hander, although it is also robust (150m water resistant) and equipped with the Master Co-Axial antimagnetic caliber in Spectre. Its blue dial with a “teak” pattern (vertical grooves mimicking a yacht deck) gives it a nautical chic perfect for agent 007 in civilian attire.
Notable features: Polished steel case, applied indices, dauphine hands, date at 3 o’clock. Automatic movement (caliber 8500 in Spectre for example) with Co-Axial escapement. The Aqua Terra has no gadgets or film features – it is there to anchor Bond in everyday reality. Skyfall being an introspective film, this watch reflects a Bond in a phase of doubt and self-rediscovery (he is seen wearing it while doing push-ups and drinking beer, a rather unprecedented scene!). In Spectre, the opening sequence calibrated like a virtuoso long take shows long shots of Bond, and the Aqua Terra is clearly visible on his sleeve, a sign of continuity with the previous film.
How to get it: The Omega Aqua Terra is an ever-current collection, with multiple variations (sizes, colors). Bond’s blue model was a bestseller. Omega even released an Aqua Terra James Bond Limited Edition in 2015 with a gunbarrel spiral pattern dial and 007 seconds hand, to celebrate Spectre.
You can easily find an Aqua Terra at Omega or online. It’s an excellent choice if you want a more subtle Bond touch: only connoisseurs will know it’s “the watch from Skyfall,” while for others it will just be a very beautiful dressy-sporty watch. The perfect compromise for playing undercover spies in everyday life.
Omega Seamaster 300 “Spectre” – The Vintage Homage with an Explosive Gadget (2015)
Film: Spectre (2015).
Description: Q pleases watch fans in Spectre by equipping Bond with a watch with a retro military look: the Omega Seamaster 300 Spectre edition (ref. 233.32.41.21.01.001). This watch is actually the modern reissue of the Seamaster 300 model from the 50s-60s (often confused with the Seamaster Diver 300M, but beware it’s different: the original Seamaster 300 was Omega’s answer to the Rolex Submariner at the time). 41mm steel case, clean black dial with vintage Arabic numerals and “Broad Arrow” hands, black bidirectional bezel with 0-11 scale (spy watch style for calculating time zones). It is mounted on a grey and black NATO strap – a direct nod to Sean Connery’s NATO strap in Goldfinger. In the film, Bond receives it from Q with the humorous mention « it explodes when it flashes »… and indeed, the watch contains an explosive triggered by an alarm. At the opportune moment, Bond activates the alarm function of the Seamaster 300, which causes a small deafening explosion allowing his escape (and leaving poor Blofeld temporarily disfigured).
Notable features: Omega Master Co-Axial 8400 antimagnetic watch, therefore very modern under its vintage appearance. 12h bidirectional bezel (peculiarity of the Spectre edition: on the normal mass-market version, the bezel is 60min unidirectional diving). The black and grey striped NATO strap bears a loop engraved 007 in limited edition. Gadget: integrated explosive linked to the alarm mechanism – Spectre returned to a watch gadget, which fans missed a bit in Skyfall. This choice of vintage watch is relevant in the scenario: Bond operates somewhat rogue and this military ticker matches his stealth equipment. Moreover, this visually anchors Spectre in a heritage (the film is full of classic references, and this watch is part of them).
How to get it: Omega marketed the Seamaster 300 “Spectre” Limited Edition 007 in 2015 with 7007 pieces, which exactly replicates the film’s watch (NATO strap included). Needless to say, it sold out quickly and its second-hand price is quite high. Alternatively, the “classic” Seamaster 300 (not limited) still exists in the catalog, without the specific 007 elements (normal diving bezel, steel bracelet or simple NATO). You can also simply get your hands on a quality black/grey NATO strap and mount it on any vintage-style diver – instant Bond effect! In any case, this Spectre watch proves that even in 2015, James Bond knows how to pull out a reference to the sixties and make the hearts of traditional watchmaking enthusiasts beat faster.
Omega Seamaster Diver 300M “007 Edition” – Craig’s Final Touch (2021)
Film: No Time To Die (2021).
Description: For his last adventure, Daniel Craig even participated in the design of his watch with Omega. The result: the Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Edition, a special version in grained titanium, with a vintage military look and totally devoid of ostentatious logos. This watch appears throughout No Time To Die on Bond’s wrist (including when he is “retired” in Jamaica at the beginning of the film, proof that he is fond of it). 42mm titanium case, tropical brown dial and bezel (slight sepia tone reminiscent of aging), beige “Old Radium” indices, domed crystal, and above all a magnificent titanium Milanese mesh bracelet. It features MoD style markings on the dial and case back: the “Broad Arrow” ↑ of British military equipment, a service number starting with 0552 and ending with *62 (nod to 1962, the year of the first film). In No Time To Die, this Seamaster is equipped by Q with a powerful EMP (electromagnetic pulse) device: Bond uses it to fry Primo’s (Cyclops) bionic eye, his last gadget vs. gadget duel! The EMP is triggered via a push-button on the side of the case.
Notable features: Omega Co-Axial Master Chronometer Caliber 8806 (antimagnetic – amusing given its gadget is an EMP…), case and bracelet in ultra-light grade 2 titanium, 300m water resistant. No date, to streamline the military design. Unidirectional bezel in brown aluminum. This watch achieves a balance between technical modernity and retro aesthetics. Daniel Craig wanted it to look like a piece of military issue that could have existed. Mission accomplished: on screen, it almost looks like it came out of the 70s, while blending perfectly with contemporary action. It’s the watch of a more mature Bond, nostalgic for a certain simplicity, but always ready for action.
The Omega Seamaster is available here on Catawiki (many rare models and great auction opportunities)
How to get it: The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M “007 Edition” is not a limited edition! Omega has integrated it into its regular range, so you can buy it in boutiques (its price is slightly higher than the standard model due to the titanium and bespoke development). It is also available online. It is a highly appreciated watch because it appeals as much to Bond fans as to lovers of sober toolwatches. By wearing it, you will literally have the most accomplished “James Bond” watch – co-created by the actor himself – and perhaps you will find yourself imagining that a simple press on your wrist could turn off all the lights around you…
Conclusion: From Functional Elegance to Regular Product Placement
James Bond’s watches transcend their simple function as accessories to become true witnesses of the era. From the mechanical sobriety of the Connery years to the gadgetized exuberance of the Moore era, then back to a certain classicism with Craig, these timepieces have accompanied the evolution of the character while reflecting the watchmaking trends of their time.
Admittedly, the commercial partnership between the saga and watch brands has become a marketing évidence, but it would be reductive to see it only as simple product placement. These watches participate in the visual definition of agent 007 and enrich his mythology.
The success of these collaborations is measured by the countless limited series and special editions that flourish with each new film, testifying to the public’s attachment to these emblematic objects. For many enthusiasts, wearing a « James Bond » watch represents a little more than sporting a beautiful piece of watchmaking – it’s appropriating a piece of the myth, briefly embodying that ideal of sophistication and adventure that the character has symbolized for six decades now.
Pour bien s'habiller, il faut comprendre le vêtement, mais aussi la marque et sa stratégie.
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