Investing in a luxury watch is not merely an act of acquisition, but rather a considered approach that blends watchmaking passion with asset allocation. The iconic pieces that have marked the history of watchmaking today represent safe havens whose appeal continues to grow among collectors worldwide.
For a first watch investment, the choice of timepiece is crucially important. It is advisable to prioritize emblematic models from manufactures with a solidly established reputation. These watches should ideally combine a rich history, impeccable watchmaking technique, and a stable, or even upward, value on the secondary market.
Far from being mere utilitarian objects, luxury watches are part of a centuries-old tradition where mechanical precision meets artisanal excellence. Each piece tells a story, bears witness to know-how, and carries a heritage dimension that goes beyond the simple notion of an accessory.
Our selection of five iconic timepieces represents a relevant range for those wishing to begin watch investing within a considered price bracket. From the legendary robustness of a Rolex Submariner to the discreet elegance of an A. Lange & Söhne, through the revolutionary designs of the Royal Oak and Nautilus, not forgetting the historical dimension of an Omega Speedmaster, these watches form the ideal foundation for a collection that will stand the test of time.
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1. Rolex Submariner Date – The essential choice
The Rolex Submariner Date is often considered THE benchmark dive watch. Launched in 1953, the Submariner has evolved while retaining its legendary design (graduated rotating bezel, black dial with luminescent markers, waterproof Oyster case). It is a watch with a rich history – worn by James Bond in films – and proven reliability. Its Rolex automatic movement is renowned for its robustness and chronometric precision. In terms of prestige, the Submariner is a symbol of success and watchmaking passion, instantly recognizable on the wrist.
Why invest? The Submariner Date ticks all the boxes for a profitable investment. Firstly, demand exceeds supply at Rolex, which sustains its value. Steel versions, notably the Submariner Date reference 16610 or the modern 116610LN, have seen their value steadily increase over recent decades. For instance, a Morgan Stanley report indicated that a Submariner offers an investment return of approximately 24% based on a study of several references (Evolution of luxury watch values: the winners and the…) (The Most Profitable Rolex Watches for Investment.). It is a highly liquid watch: it sells easily worldwide, thanks to Rolex’s universal reputation. Furthermore, the brand has a global after-sales service network, ensuring the long-term maintenance of your Submariner. Finally, its status as a timeless icon limits the risk of going out of fashion: the Sub’ remains a safe bet, with a solid value even in turbulent times (it is often compared to a “glass of water”: stable regardless of market waves). It is therefore an excellent choice for a first-time investor wishing to combine pleasure and financial performance.
A Rolex Submariner Date 16610 with its original Rolex box. This reference, produced from the late 1980s to 2010, has become a sought-after classic among collectors for its timeless design and reliability.
Submariner Date “Starbucks” version (ref. 126610LV, green bezel) launched in 2020. Modern Rolex Submariners benefit from the latest materials (scratch-resistant green ceramic bezel) while retaining the DNA of the original 1953 Sub. These special editions with colour details often see their value climb due to their relative scarcity on the market.
Detail of a Rolex Submariner Date “Hulk” (ref. 116610LV green dial and bezel). Introduced in 2010, this intense green version earned its nickname from fans. Discontinued in 2020, its value significantly increased on the secondary market due to collector enthusiasm (Evolution of luxury watch values: the winners and the…).
The Submariner remains one of the most versatile luxury watches. With its 300m water resistance, steel Oyster bracelet, and Chromalight luminescence dial, it combines luxury and sportiness. Its design is so accomplished that it has changed little in 70 years – a testament to its timelessness.
Discover Rolex Submariner offers on Catawiki – online auctions where you can find new or pre-owned Submariners within your budget.
2. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 15400ST – The high-end sports watch grail
While Rolex dominates the sport-chic segment, the Royal Oak by Audemars Piguet is its other undisputed queen. Launched in 1972 and designed by the legendary Gérald Genta, the Royal Oak defined the concept of the luxury steel watch. The reference 15400ST (41 mm, steel) pays homage to the original design while bringing modern improvements. Its octagonal case with exposed screws, its “Grande Tapisserie” pattern dial, and its integrated bracelet with finely brushed links give it an inimitable look. In 2012, Audemars Piguet updated the Royal Oak by launching the 15400ST, which succeeded the 15300ST (Audemars Piguet – Royal Oak – 15400ST – Men – 2011-present in Poland). This new generation refined certain details: a more discreet AP logo at 12 o’clock, double indices at noon, and the manufacture calibre 3120 visible through the sapphire case back (Audemars Piguet – Royal Oak – 15400ST – Men – 2011-present in Poland). The Royal Oak 15400ST combines artisanal know-how (hand-finishing of each surface) and performance (automatic movement with a solid gold rotor).
Why invest? The Royal Oak has become one of the most coveted watches in the world in recent years. Its prestige rests on the reputation of Audemars Piguet (one of the “Big Three” Swiss manufactures alongside Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin) and the unique place of this model in watchmaking history. For a novice but ambitious investor, the Royal Oak 15400ST offers high appreciation potential – evidenced by the spectacular price increases recently observed for the Royal Oak “Jumbo” or chronograph models. In March 2022, a “new” blue Royal Oak Jumbo was trading around €140,000 on the market, whereas it was worth half that two years earlier (Evolution of luxury watch values: the winners and the…). Scarcity fuels this inflation: Audemars Piguet produces few Royal Oaks each year, making access difficult. Owning a 15400ST today means positioning oneself in an ultra-sought-after segment where global collector demand is strong. Regarding resale, the Royal Oak has become an international currency (like Rolex) – specialized marketplaces record numerous transactions above the boutique price. Be aware, the entry-level price for a pre-owned 15400ST is around our high budget mark (€15,000), but the underlying trend remains upward. In the long term, its value should hold thanks to its icon status. For a passionate first-time investor, it’s a bet on a legendary piece whose financial value follows its cultural value.
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ref. 15400ST in steel, with its black “Grande Tapisserie” dial and iconic screwed octagonal bezel. This timepiece blends sporty elegance and high horology – every detail is finely hand-finished at Audemars Piguet in Le Brassus. (Audemars Piguet – Royal Oak – 15400ST – Men – 2011-present in Poland).
Example of a Royal Oak 15400ST with a blue “Petite Tapisserie” dial. Versions with a blue dial are particularly sought after by collectors, reminiscent of the original 1972 Royal Oak “Jumbo”. The integrated bracelet, a true work of art, gives the watch unparalleled comfort and style.
Discover Audemars Piguet Royal Oak offers on Catawiki – exceptional sales where you can find an expert-authenticated pre-owned Royal Oak.
3. Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711 – The ultimate icon, rare and prized
To speak of watch investment without mentioning the Patek Philippe Nautilus would be unthinkable. This mythical model, also created by Gérald Genta in 1976, is Patek’s response to the Royal Oak. The most famous reference, the Nautilus 5711/1A in steel with a blue dial, has become a true modern grail. Its design inspired by a ship’s porthole (hence the name Nautilus, a nod to Jules Verne’s submarine) is a timeless and mythical classic (Investing in luxury, collector’s watches (Rolex, Omega, etc.)). It features an elegant case with curved contours, a softened octagonal bezel, a blue dial with horizontal relief, and an integrated bracelet in polished-satin steel of great flexibility. It is a watch that exudes discreet luxury – a sporty Patek that retains the finesse and finishing excellence of the Geneva manufacture. The automatic calibre 26-330 SC powering the 5711 offers time and date with exemplary reliability, visible through the transparent case back.
Why invest? The Nautilus 5711 is undoubtedly the luxury watch whose value has exploded the most over the last decade. With Patek Philippe announcing the discontinuation of the 5711 in 2021, speculation ran wild: its price on the grey market reached nearly €100,000 whereas it cost around €30,000 in boutiques (Investing in luxury, collector’s watches (Rolex, Omega, etc.)). This surge is explained by a simple equation: very few pieces produced (a few hundred per year) for enormous global demand. For a novice investor, this means acquiring a Nautilus requires a budget exceeding €100,000 today – beyond our scope. However, it is possible to invest indirectly in this value by betting on variants or similar models. For example, the Nautilus 5711 white dial or certain slightly less prized pre-owned Nautilus models can trade between €70k and €90k in 2025, which remains high. However, Patek Philippe also offers the Aquanaut (the brand’s other Genta sports model, launched in 1997), some more affordable references of which have also seen their value climb. In any case, investing in a Patek sports watch from the Nautilus/Aquanaut line ensures placing one’s money in an ultra-desirable asset that is relatively protected from downturns (collector enthusiasm for these models is global and enduring). Resale is facilitated by Patek’s prestige: the brand is synonymous with heritage value (it is often said, “You never actually own a Patek Philippe. You merely look after it for the next generation.”). For an ambitious first-time investor, the Nautilus is a target to know, even if it means starting with a more accessible model and then evolving one’s collection towards this masterpiece. (See also: our special feature Investing in Patek Philippe watches and the comparative duel Royal Oak vs Nautilus to understand the dynamics of these two icons.)
Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5711/1A in steel, blue dial. This model, discontinued by Patek in 2021, saw its value more than triple on the secondary market (Investing in luxury, collector’s watches (Rolex, Omega, etc.)). Its refined nautical design and the brand’s prestige make it one of the most sought-after watches in the world.
The Nautilus, shown here front and profile, illustrates Patek Philippe’s manufacturing quality: case and bracelet merge perfectly, alternating brushed and mirror-polished surfaces. It is a thin watch (8.5 mm thick) that maintains an incredible presence on the wrist.
Discover Patek Philippe Nautilus offers on Catawiki – exclusive sales to try and acquire these exceptional timepieces (as well as more accessible Aquanaut models).
4. Omega Speedmaster “Snoopy Edition” – The legendary chrono, prized by collectors
Within the Omega Speedmaster family, famous for accompanying the Apollo missions, the limited editions known as “Snoopy” hold a special place for passionate investors. Omega has launched several Speedmaster “Snoopy Award” editions in tribute to the Apollo 13 mission: the first in 2003 (reference 3578.51), one in 2015 (called the “Silver Snoopy Award”, ref. 311.32.42.30.04.003), and one in 2020 (50th anniversary). These watches are distinguished by the presence of the character Snoopy (Charlie Brown’s dog) on the dial and/or case back, commemorating Omega receiving the Silver Snoopy Award from NASA in 1970 for its crucial role in the safe return of Apollo 13. The 2003 Speedmaster Snoopy, for example, features Snoopy as an astronaut at 9 o’clock and was limited to 5,441 pieces – a number chosen in reference to the duration of the Apollo 13 mission (142h 54min 41s) (Omega – Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch – 3578.51.00 – Unisex – 2003 – online auction Catawiki). Technically, it houses the robust Omega calibre 1861 chronograph movement (derived from the famous 321) with manual winding, housed in a classic 42 mm steel Speedmaster Professional case. The design combines the heritage of the Moonwatch (black dial, tachymeter scale) with playful touches related to Snoopy, appealing to collectors seeking originality.
Why invest? The Speedmaster “Snoopy” editions combine several investment strengths. Firstly, the base is a Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch – a model whose value is stable and ascending, driven by its unique lunar history. Secondly, the Snoopy versions are all numbered limited series, creating scarcity and speculation. For example, the 2015 Silver Snoopy version (limited to 1970 examples) fetched over €40,000 on the secondary market in 2022, nearly 4 times its original price. This performance is explained by the emotional capital of these watches: they tell the story of Apollo 13 and the rescue where Omega watches played a role (the precise timing of engine burns for trajectory correction) (Omega – Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch – 3578.51.00 – Unisex – 2003 – online auction Catawiki). For a first-time investor, finding a 2003 Speedmaster Snoopy might still be feasible around our budget (between €12k and €15k depending on condition and completeness). Not only will you own a watch with an iconic design (the Speedmaster “Moonwatch”), but also a sought-after collector’s piece, whose value can hold or even climb due to the enduring enthusiasm of space and comic fans. Omega continues to fuel this flame (the release of the Snoopy 50th Anniversary in 2020 further increased the notoriety of these models). In summary, a Speedmaster Snoopy is both a pleasure and heritage investment: the pleasure of wearing a legendary chrono daily, and a collector’s asset whose rarity ensures good value retention.
(Omega – Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch Blue Snoopy Limited Edition – 3578.51.00 – Men – 2000-2010 – online auction Catawiki) Omega Speedmaster Professional “Snoopy Award” (2003 limited edition). Snoopy in a spacesuit is visible on the seconds sub-dial at 9 o’clock – a detail paying homage to the Apollo 13 mission where Omega received the Silver Snoopy Award for helping save the mission (Omega – Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch – 3578.51.00 – Unisex – 2003 – online auction Catawiki).
Close-up view of the “Eyes on the Stars” dial from the 2003 Snoopy edition. The case back of these watches is engraved (or printed) with a Snoopy insignia or a quote related to Apollo 13. These rather special Speedmasters combine the seriousness of space exploration with a quirky pop culture spirit, strongly stimulating collector demand.
Discover Omega Speedmaster Snoopy offers on Catawiki – try to acquire these highly sought-after limited editions during online auctions (carefully check authenticity and certificates provided by sellers).
5. A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin – Discreet and valued German high horology
Let’s conclude this top 5 with a different but equally interesting proposition for a first investment: the Saxonia Thin from the German manufacture A. Lange & Söhne. Lange is not as media-heavy as Rolex or Patek, but connoisseurs know it is one of the most prestigious watchmakers in the world (based in Glashütte, the cradle of Saxon watchmaking). The Saxonia Thin is a streamlined and elegant model, representing Lange’s entry-level in terms of complications (hours and minutes only). Its ultra-thin case (only ~6 mm thick) in rose gold or white gold houses a manual calibre of exceptional finish (Glashütte ribbing decoration, polished chamfers, hand-engraved balance cock). The dial design, of sober beauty, reflects the Lange philosophy: get to the essence with refinement. This watch demonstrates that watchmaking luxury doesn’t need to show off – the Saxonia Thin prioritizes intrinsic quality over flashiness.
Why invest? Choosing a Lange Saxonia Thin to start one’s collection means betting on intrinsic value and rarity rather than hype. New, these models cost around €20,000 in gold, but they can be found on the recent pre-owned market in the €12k-€15k range depending on the metal and condition. The value of A. Lange & Söhne has shown good stability, even progression, in recent years as the brand gains recognition among collectors. Admittedly, the Saxonia Thin hasn’t experienced explosive speculation, but that’s precisely an advantage for a cautious novice investor: one bets on a major watchmaking house whose production is limited (a few thousand watches per year across all collections), ensuring a form of permanent scarcity. Furthermore, Lange does not depreciate much after purchase – most owners keep them preciously, maintaining low supply on the secondary market. In terms of resale, you will reach an audience of knowledgeable enthusiasts, willing to pay the price for a well-maintained example with its papers. Finally, the Saxonia Thin is a timeless dress watch: its classic style will not go out of fashion, which sustains its desirability long-term. For a first investment, it’s a “reasoned pleasure” choice – you enjoy an extraordinarily high-quality watch on your wrist, while placing your money in a tangibly precious (18k gold case) and symbolically strong (Lange rivals Patek Philippe in terms of technical prestige) asset.
The Saxonia Thin in white gold on a blue leather strap. With a diameter of about 39 mm and only 6 mm thick, it is the German manufacture’s thinnest watch (SAXONIA THIN – 205.086 – A. Lange & Söhne). Its minimalist dial and impeccable finish make it a piece of discreet high horology appreciated by purists.
Detail of the Saxonia Thin’s manual calibre, visible on the case back. Each component is adjusted and decorated by hand in Glashütte – visible are the three-quarter plate in German silver, gold-set rubies, and the engraved balance cock. This artisanal excellence gives Lange watches a globally recognized artistic and technical value.
Discover A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia offers on Catawiki – a rare opportunity to acquire a pre-owned Lange watch, checked by experts, at an advantageous price compared to new.
Conclusion
At the end of this overview of investment watches, one thing becomes clear: the timepieces that constitute true safe havens share common characteristics. They combine fascinating history, technical excellence, and enduring desirability among a global community of enthusiasts and investors.
The Rolex Submariner embodies the quintessential dive model, whose robust value attests to demand consistently exceeding supply. The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, a true aesthetic revolution signed by Gérald Genta, continues to fascinate with its disruptive design and exceptional finishes. The Patek Philippe Nautilus, the ultimate icon of the sport-chic segment, has seen its value soar spectacularly in recent years, particularly since the cessation of its production. The Omega Speedmaster, notably in its Snoopy editions, capitalizes on its unique space history and its status as a legendary chronograph. Finally, the A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia represents German watchmaking excellence in its most refined and discreet form.
For the newcomer wishing to embark on the watch investment adventure, it is essential to understand that these timepieces are much more than financial placements: they are witnesses to mechanical excellence, history, and watchmaking art. The savvy investor will primarily choose a piece that resonates with their personal tastes, while keeping in mind the objective criteria of rarity, popularity, and state of conservation.
Let us finally recall that a luxury watch is above all made to be worn. The daily pleasure of sporting an exceptional piece remains the finest form of appreciation, regardless of its market value evolution!
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Pour bien s'habiller, il faut comprendre le vêtement, mais aussi la marque et sa stratégie.