Guide to Black Tie Attire for men: the subtleties of the black tie dress code for men (and especially how to wear a tuxedo)

Disclaimer: I’m delighted to hand over the pen for this article to Massimiliano Mocchia di Coggiola, an illustrious Parisian dandy, illustrator and fashion historian (and lecturer on the subject). He’s probably in the best position to tell you all you need to know about an extremely meticulous dress code, with origins going back hundreds of years, and to give you all the keys to wearing a man’s tuxedo properly. Happy reading, Valéry Evenings requiring a formal dress code and a man’s tuxedo are rare in France, so if you’re invited to this kind of festivity, it’s best not to miss out and to stick to the dress code when it’s mentioned. It’s not there by chance, and the hosts of these parties will have given it meticulous thought beforehand. So it’s a question of respect to follow the dress code they’ve spent time choosing.

Note from Valéry: for those who don’t have time to read the whole article (which is a shame, because taking the time to dress well is what the Black Tie is all about), here’s an infographic summarizing the essentials, based on an illustration by Massimiliano. In it, you’ll find the keys to wearing a man’s tuxedo.

I THE BLACK TIE DRESS CODE: TUXEDO OR DINNER JACKET ?

The tuxedo was created by thearbiter elegantiarum Edouard VII when, during the « intimate » dinners given at his second home (between men), he wanted to offer an alternative to the frac – more relaxed and less restrictive. The short jacket was already worn during the day; he simply adapted it to a festive, nocturnal context. His first tuxedo was made by London tailor Henry Poole & Co, and dates back to 1865.

As time went by, the tuxedo became the White Tie’s little brother (more formal and strict), first used in gentlemen’s clubs and at less formal social events; then, in the 1920s, with jazz, youth and the desire for uninhibited fun. As you can see, this kind of dress code is based on over 200 years of tradition, with strict rules and restrictions. Strictly speaking, black tie is therefore a rather rigid dress code, with no room for eccentricities – unless you’re already completely at ease with the rules of this attire or are hosting an evening at the artists’ circle.

how to wear a tuxedo: the choice of jacket

The tuxedo jacket is the most important piece of your outfit: the « basic » one should be black, single-breasted or double-breasted, with silk satin or grosgrain lapels, no slits and piped pockets (more rarely with flaps). It’s supposed to be cut from fairly thick woollen cloth, or from lighter fabrics for summer versions. Buttons can be made of black corozo or covered with the same silk for lapels.

Tuxedo jacket variations: colors and collars

You can add a few personal touches , such as a shawl collar, a colored vest or a velvet jacket (bottle green, burgundy or midnight blue are the most commonly accepted variations). You can also opt for a complete men’s tuxedo cut from midnight-blue cloth , which the Prince of Wales said was « blacker than black » (it retains its color under artificial light, whereas black will tend to take on charcoal-gray hues). The latter option does allow for the lapels to be covered with coarse black grain, however.

The case of the white tuxedo jacket

The white jacket is an American invention dating back to the 1930s: designed for less formal spring and summer evenings, it’s also more than acceptable in tropical or subtropical climates. It comes in white, off-white or, more rarely, light beige.

Being slightly less formal than the black jacket, the lapels are not necessarily covered in silk. It can be made from wool, silk, shantung or other lightweight fabrics. In cotton, it may look a little « waiter-like », unless the cut is excellent. In linen, it risks wrinkling immediately, which is not desirable for a tuxedo!

A special sub-category of the white jacket: the Spencer

For formal summer wear, the spencer was also invented: a frac jacket without the tails (the back ends in a point at the waist). This jacket is usually white or ecru, sometimes with a matching vest. Nowadays, it’s a uniform worn by waiters in the fanciest hotels, and even a gala uniform for certain military corps.

how to wear a tuxedo: cover the waist

The most distinctive feature of the Black Tie is the need to cover the waist. The aim is to hide the suspenders ( never wear a belt with this outfit) and the shirt when the jacket is closed (you know you always have that little gap between the jacket button and the trouser waist that more or less reveals the shirt, especially with low-waisted pants). If you don’t have a double-breasted men’s tuxedo jacket (in which case you don’t need to cover anything, the double-breasted jacket being insurance), then you have two options: the vest or the cummerbund.

The tuxedo vest

The vest is the most preferable solution , and certainly the most formal and traditional. But it must obey a few well-established rules: – it should barely exceed the top of the V-neck of the jacket (when buttoned), but above all, it should completely cover the waist of the pants. – it must be made of the same material as the jacket, or else of shaped silk; straight, double-breasted, with lapels or without. – it should be cut with a high, slightly rounded neckline, to show as much of your shirt front as possible Daytime vests, though black, are not allowed, as you’ll be mistaken for a waiter. White cotton vests (as in the frac), corresponding to the same criteria above, are allowed in a summery, less formal setting.

The cummerbund

The cummerbund has been the most popular option since the 1980s. Made from silk (satin or grosgrain), ideally in a texture that matches the lapels, it was first worn by English colonists in India, offering a less covering (and therefore less warm!) alternative to the vest. Under no circumstances should you wear the vest AND the cummerbund together: if your pants are too low-waisted, exposing your shirt between the vest and the belt, then this means you need to get a pair of high-waisted pants as soon as possible. In a hurry, get rid of your vest, then steal a black scarf from your girlfriend and tie it around your waist! The « colonial » effect is more preferable than the scruffy one.

The shirt

When it comes to shirts, we traditionally opt for a faux collar. The drawback is thatthis type of shirt requires special care (starching, or empesage, which is not very common these days). If you don’t have an old-fashioned laundry or extraordinary expertise with rice starch, opt for your finest white shirt. Ideally, here are its characteristics: – fabric: poplin or other fabric – finishes: musketeer cuffs and bib, either pleated or quilted. – buttons: beautiful, classic white mother-of-pearl buttons are best (simplicity first). Avoid shirts with black buttons, unless you have a shirt with a starched bib.

Tuxedo pants

Tuxedo pants have the following characteristics: – they are held together by suspenders (preferably white) – cut from the same fabric as the jacket (unless, of course, you choose a white jacket) – with a grosgrain or satin band on the side seam (depending on your lapels). For other finishes, we’re looking for the most minimalist look possible: – no flaps on back pockets – vertical Italian-style side pockets (not on the bias), to line up with the side seam and be as discreet as possible – the fold at the front of the pants is not compulsory, but strongly recommended… – of course, it won’t have a cuff

Best Black Tie Shoes

Different scenarios are possible, depending on your wardrobe: – patent loafers with grosgrain bows (called opera pumps in English, ideally very low-cut) – straight-toe black richelieu shoes, varnished or freshly waxed Velvet pumps, sometimes monogrammed or with embroidery, should be reserved for a very private context (reception at home, pijama party…). Our advice? If you don’t want to be burdened with a pair of shoes you’ll only wear a few times a year, the ideal would be to opt for well-waxed richelieus (preferably in onecut). Anything brogue should be avoided.

Traditionally, socks should be made of black silk. In the 1920s, some dandies liked to wear opera pumps with champagne-colored socks. Avoid riding this vintage wave if you don’t have the right shoes!

Bow ties and other accessories

Then comes the iconic piece of formal dress code, the bow tie. In black silk, of course: either satin, grosgrain or, more rarely, black pique. Of course, we opt for a bow tie (not a pre-tied one). Last but not least, a suit pocket (preferably in white cotton), a watch with a black bracelet (as sober as possible), and cufflinks. A gusseted watch may be nice if you opt for a vest: in this case, gold chains are preferable, as silver is not « formal » enough.

Special case: lapel buttonholes and other medals

Decorating the lapel buttonhole of your men’s tuxedo is a delicate operation: don’t have fun putting grandpa’s military medals on it, because there’s always someone who’ll point out that you’re not allowed to. In theory, and in any case, the tuxedo is a little less formal than the frac: displaying medals (civil or military) is not in good taste. If you have the right, and if the evening is sufficiently formal, wear the corresponding ribbon or rosette, without overdoing it.

Flowers on the lapel

Alternatively, how about a flower? It may be a little vintage, but we love the way it looks. The most appropriate (and virile) is the carnation: – red: very classic but always pleasing – white: very formal and a little boring – green: a tribute to Oscar Wilde and his acolytes – blue: the most melancholy The aesthetes of the 1890s-1910s loved rare and « sickly » flowers: orchids were their favorite boutonnieres. Roses and other flowers were reserved for weddings: in this case, it was up to the bride to provide small buttonhole bouquets reminiscent of her own. The choice of other types of flowers, brooches or pins is up to you: sobriety is certainly the order of the day, but a touch of fantasy is always welcome in a panorama that is sometimes too uniform.

Slightly less formal derivatives

An alternative or creative tuxedo, just like a traditional men’s tuxedo, has no room for fantasy. Fantasy is only possible if the dress code is vague or if you are explicitly invited to be fancy. The aim is to take a measured risk with an unusual material, color or pattern (depending on the context), but nothing else. These « variations on the theme » are only tolerated in contexts where the tuxedo is a habit, not a novelty. In short, when wearing a man’s tuxedo is a mastered art.

wearing a tuxedo: do’s & don’ts

Here’s a short list of examples and counter-examples to help you clearly distinguish what’s appropriate to wear.

DON’T: Ties are already forbidden in business suits, and even more so (whatever the color) in a formal, strict style such as black tie with a man’s tuxedo. We always prefer a black bow tie. Let’s leave the long tie to Hollywood stars in need of celebrity.

DON’T: There are two (rather discreet but no less important) errors of taste here that detract from the overall look. The first is the single notch (or straight) lapels. These are reserved for business suits and nothing else. They should be avoided in formal outfits such as black ties and men’s tuxedos. You should wear lapels with a sharp notch or a shawl collar of your choice. Low-waisted pants without a vest complete the total failure of this look.

DO & DON’T: I found this photo particularly interesting, as it offers both an example to follow and a counter-example. On the left, we see a men’s shawl-collared tuxedo with satin lapels, a bow tie and a pair of patent richelieu shoes (the only drawback is the slightly contrasting buttons, which we’d have preferred to avoid), so overall it’s a good example to follow, despite the rather ordinary cut. However, on the right of the photo, the gentleman is wearing unsatinized single notch lapels (a double fault), then his pants are too small and too « tailored  » (which makes them look a little ridiculous) and finally the contrasting beige sole is out of place with a man’s tuxedo or business suit (or indeed with any outfit at all).

DO: How to wear a man’s tuxedo properly? This musician shows us just how. You can tell by his serene attitude! Sharp notches on satin lapels, a discreet buttonhole and a pre-tied bow tie that’s easy to forget – thanks to the gentleman’s confidence and age. A little bonus: the discreet fold of the handkerchief calms the contrast.

II THE WHITE TIE DRESS CODE

This is the most formal dress code (even more formal than the Black Tie).

Piece selection

It includes a black tailcoat (not to be confused with a « morning tailcoat« ) and matching black pants, an imperatively white vest, a bib shirt with wing collar, a white cotton bow tie and a pair of patent pumps. Please note: Shirts with turned-down collars are out of the question (the look is vulgar, and this type of collar with the frac is tolerated only if you’re going to play violin in an orchestra).

THE JACKET

When it comes to jackets, you’re spoilt for choice. It should be black, with silk lapels and sharp notches. Pants are black, with a satin stripe down the side. In the 1930s, it became fashionable to wear double stripes on pants, which today is correct, but absolutely unnecessary. Such invitations are extremely rare (they’re more likely to be balls, galas or embassy parties) and reserved for very exclusive circles (if you’re one of them, this article becomes a simple review). Nevertheless, here are a few examples to get you started:

EXAMPLE OF BLACK TIE ATTIRE

DON’T: the black butterfly with the frac. As we’ve seen, the butterfly must be white with the frac (white tie), and black with the tuxedo (black tie). Wearing a black butterfly with the frac will expose you to comments (it will be obvious that you’re not used to it and that you’re not from the milieu): traditionally, only waiters and butlers wear it in black – so as to be recognized as such by guests. DON’T: The vest should always be white. There are many reasons why the black vest is necessary (as far as we know, a daytime visit to the Pope at the Vatican, which doesn’t happen every day…). In the past, certain daytime ceremonies might require the wearing of the frac with the black vest: this explains Kemal Atatürk’s appearance in this photo, but it’s not a rule, nor a variant, but rather an exception:

DO: In this composition below, the codes governing the white tie are respected. A tailcoat, a white bow tie, beautiful sharp lapels, the white double-breasted vest that covers the shirt and pants well. Almost everything is there, and the exercise (however difficult) is a success. The only downside is the shirt, which we’d like to see of better quality, with a much higher collar and stiffer bib.

CONCLUSION : THE COMPLETE GUIDE OF BLACK-TIE DRESS CODE(BY VALERY)

Black Tie parties may be rare occasions, but if you wear a tuxedo well, they allow you to show the best version of yourself, and therefore require patience and diligence to choose your outfit, and to develop over the years a mini wardrobe dedicated to the ceremony and all the ease needed to wear a tuxedo well.

While it’s possible to use certain elements of your classic wardrobe (straight-toe black richelieu, white shirt with concealed throat), there are two elements that are unique to it and will require your full attention: the men’s tuxedo and the bow tie. These will be discussed in the next two articles.