Rudy’s

Founded in 1981 by Rémy Sfez, Rudy’s is a French brand of men’s shoes. It is known for its well-designed shoes, neat finishes, and fair prices. The brand primarily uses Blake construction for its shoes, ensuring optimal comfort right from the first wear.

Bexley

Bexley is a French shoe brand created in 1985 in Lyon by Éric Botton. Specializing in men’s shoes, Bexley stands out for its unbeatable value for money. As early as 1996, the brand successfully launched into online sales, becoming an e-commerce pioneer. In 2014, Bexley expanded its offering to include men’s ready-to-wear. Today, the brand has a large network of stores in France and internationally. Bexley emphasizes French elegance and artisanal craftsmanship to offer affordable shoes that combine timeless style and comfort.

Sparkes

Sparkes is a young French shoe brand created in 2016 in Paris by fashion enthusiasts wanting to offer quality shoes at affordable prices. Noticing a lack of balance in the market, Sparkes is committed to providing products that combine style, comfort, and quality at the right price. The brand manufactures its trendy models in Portugal and Europe, respecting the environment. In just a few years, Sparkes has established itself by offering sneakers, loafers, boots, and oxfords for men and women, blending timelessness and modernity.

Patine

Patine, a Polish shoe brand, has distinguished itself with its excellent value for money. Founded in 2015, it first served as a distributor before launching its own line of Goodyear-welted shoes, manufactured in Spain and sold for under €300. The brand partnered with Polish master shoemaker Tadeusz Januszkiewicz to create the special « TJ » line, combining elegance and orthopedic comfort. This collaboration allowed Patine to position itself as a serious alternative to more established brands.

Using leathers from renowned tanneries like Annonay and Du Puy, Patine offers a diverse range of models, from oxfords to derbies, each with a touch of originality. The brand focuses on customer loyalty by offering a high-quality product at an accessible price, making it an attractive option in the competitive luxury shoe market.

Orban’s

Created in 2015, Orban’s is a French brand of men’s shoes. It offers quality footwear at affordable prices, with Goodyear welting on all its models. The brand positions itself in the entry-level quality shoe market and has a store in Paris.

Meermin

Meermin is a Spanish shoemaking company founded in 2001. The brand offers quality shoes at competitive prices, using leathers from recognized European tanners. Meermin shoes are partly manufactured in China and have been available in their Parisian store since September 2019.

Crownhill Shoes

Crownhill Shoes is a Spanish brand of men’s shoes. It offers affordable shoes (under €200), manufactured in Spain, with leathers from reputable tanneries. The brand also offers a premium range around €300, with better leathers and more careful construction.

Ypson’s

Founded in 1986, Ypson’s is a French brand of men’s shoes. It offers quality footwear at affordable prices, with leathers from the Du Puy tanneries and Portuguese manufacturing. The brand is known for its Blake and Goodyear welted models and has a store in Paris.

Loding

Loding is a French brand of men’s shoes, offering quality footwear at affordable prices. The brand is known for its Goodyear welted models, using full-grain calf leather. Loding has several stores in France and abroad.

Velasca

Velasca is an Italian shoe brand founded in 2013 by Enrico Casati and Jacopo Sebastio. Inspired by Milan’s Velasca Tower, a symbol of innovation and renaissance, the brand collaborates with a small family business located in the Marche region of Italy to create quality shoes at a reasonable price. Velasca products are entirely made in Italy, highlighting local craftsmanship and the excellence of « Made in Italy ». The brand offers a varied range of shoes for men and women, from classic models like Oxfords, Derbies, and loafers, to more casual styles such as sneakers and boots.

Herring Shoes

Herring Shoes is an English family business founded in 1966 by Richard Herring. They offer premium quality shoes from English manufacturers such as Barker, Church’s, Cheaney, and Loake. Herring Shoes also has its own brand of shoes, designed by Adrian Herring and manufactured in the best English shoe factories in Northamptonshire.

Loake

Since 1880, Loake Shoemakers has been producing high-quality men’s shoes from their Wood Street factory in Kettering, Northamptonshire. The brand is still owned and operated by the Loake family.

Bridlen

Bridlen represents one of those rare cases where technical excellence takes precedence over marketing and appearances. This Indo-Japanese collaboration between Mr. Hasan and Mr. Watanabe has given birth to a unique approach to shoemaking, likely originating from Agra, the historic cradle of Indian leather craftsmanship.

What particularly impresses me about Bridlen is their uncompromising philosophy favoring internal construction over superficial finishes. The complete teardown of their models by other blogs reveals a remarkably executed channeled Goodyear welt construction, with a particularly clever carved channel wall – a technical feat rare at this price point (around €250).

Between their two main lines (Main and Founders), you’ll find quality leathers like those from Annonay, admittedly showing some minor imperfections but nothing prohibitive. User feedback confirms my observations: immediate comfort without a break-in period and exceptional value for money.

Incorio

In Corio is a shoe brand that stands out for its bold promise: offering leather shoes that are comfortable from the very first wear. The brand, which has its shoes manufactured in a Portuguese workshop and uses leathers from the French Du Puy tannery, offers a complete range from Oxfords to boots. Comfort is ensured by Blake construction and the addition of an ergonomic latex midsole.

The price of the shoes ranges from €220 for a summer pair to €300 for boots, a competitive price positioning.

Carlos Santos

The luxury shoe brand Carlos Santos was founded in 1942 in Portugal by Carlos Alberto Rodrigues dos Santos. At just 14 years old, he began working in a shoe factory. Later, he traveled to Italy to draw inspiration from production techniques and design. In 1960, he founded his own brand bearing his name. Today, Carlos Santos Shoes exports its passionately handmade shoes from Portugal worldwide. The brand is run by the Santos family and emphasizes craftsmanship, tradition, and innovation in creating unique footwear.

Malfroid

Malfroid is a French shoe brand created in 2018 by Victor Bastié and Thomas de Bascher, two fine shoe enthusiasts. They decided to pay homage to a forgotten former Parisian shoemaker, Malfroid, by naming their brand after him. Without claiming heritage, Malfroid offers shoes made in Portugal with French leathers, in a timeless Anglo-Italian style. Sold exclusively in their Parisian store, Malfroid shoes offer unbeatable value for money. In just a few years, Malfroid has established itself through its expertise and affordable prices for fine, comfortable shoes, while opening a second store on Rue Saint-Honoré in 2020.

Gustavia

Gustavia Shoes, a Parisian shoe brand, stands out for its strong and assertive stylistic stance. Founded by Samy, a shoe expert with over two decades of experience, the brand offers shoes with sleek and slender shapes, inspired by traditional shoemaking art. Shoe prices range from €190 to €450, featuring top-quality materials from renowned tanneries like Tannerie du Puy in France and Stead in England.

Gustavia’s models are designed to last a lifetime, with traditional Goodyear welting and meticulous finishes. The brand also offers custom patinas and a competitive cobbler service. The shoes are manufactured in Portugal according to demanding specifications, and each pair is hand-patinated by Samy himself.

George&George

A French brand created in 2015 by Olivier, a shoemaker, and Anne, a banker, George&George offers men’s shoes that are both classic and modern, manufactured in Portugal. Using quality leathers like full-grain calfskin, their flagship models include oxfords, loafers, and derbies with revisited traditional shapes (some featuring exclusive patterns).

They offer a made-to-measure service and artisanal patinas.

Max Sauveur

Max Sauveur is a young French shoe brand created in 2020 by two brothers, Rudy and Samuel Sfez. Their initial concept is to draw inspiration from the daily lives of personalities to create custom-made shoes that meet their needs.
Max Sauveur emphasizes robust materials and quality artisanal manufacturing. Their signature models include loafers, derbies, and oxfords with a timeless style, available in Italian full-grain leathers.

Septième Largeur

Septième Largeur, created in 2009 by Marcos Fernandez and Mathieu Preiss, is a French brand of men’s shoes that excels in the art of patina and the use of leathers from top French tanneries. The core of their offering lies in timeless models, mostly Goodyear welted, adapted to the demands of the professional world. A custom patina service is also offered, allowing unique personalization at a competitive price.

The brand stands out for its diverse lasts, designed for different foot shapes, and meticulous finishes. The design is Parisian, while manufacturing is handled by a long-standing Spanish factory. With prices starting at €290 for standard models and €365 for custom patinas, Septième Largeur offers exceptional value for money. This positioning makes it an essential reference in the luxury men’s shoe sector.

Carmina

Carmina, a Spanish luxury shoe brand, stands out for its commitment to traditional craftsmanship and superior quality. Founded in 1866 in Mallorca, this family business has preserved its heritage while adapting to modern demands. Their product range, from classic shoes to more contemporary models, is designed to meet the needs of a discerning clientele.

The main appeal of Carmina lies in its exceptional value for money. While most luxury shoes can cost a small fortune, Carmina offers a more affordable alternative without compromising on quality.

Morjas

Morjas is a Swedish brand of men’s shoes created in 2017 by Henrik Berg. Inspired by the founder’s Hispano-Swedish roots, Morjas aims to blend Mediterranean and Scandinavian influences in timeless, high-quality shoes. The brand’s motto is « Timeless design – A modern purchase. » Until recently, Morjas sold exclusively online, allowing it to offer affordable prices on handmade Goodyear welted shoes manufactured in Spain.

This direct-to-consumer sales model also allows for a personalized customer experience.

TLB Mallorca

Founded in 2016 by artisan Toni Llobera Barceló (formerly of Yanko), TLB Mallorca is a Spanish brand specializing in high-end men’s shoes and accessories. Based in Inca, Mallorca, the brand introduced Goodyear welted construction and launched its premium « Artista » line in 2019. Using luxury leathers like calfskin and cordovan, TLB Mallorca offers full customization and a variety of styles, from oxfords to sneakers. Recognized for its excellent value for money, it rivals major European brands.

Justin Fitzpatrick Footwear

JFitzpatrick is a men’s shoe brand created in 2013 by Justin Fitzpatrick, a passionate men’s shoe enthusiast. Based in New York, the brand offers shoes artisanally crafted in Spain using the Goodyear-welted method.

JFitzpatrick models are distinguished by their elegant and timeless lines, quality Italian leathers, and meticulous finishes. The brand offers a wide range of oxfords, loafers, ankle boots, and boots with a revisited classic style. JFitzpatrick targets a discerning male clientele seeking shoes with character.

Berwick

Berwick 1707 is a Spanish brand of men’s shoes, founded in 2007. The brand name refers to the Battle of Berwick in 1707, which was crucial in the development of the War of the Spanish Succession. Berwick shoes are manufactured in Almansa, Spain, using the Goodyear Welt process, which combines technology and artisanal expertise.

Yanko

Yanko is a Spanish brand of men’s shoes, created in 1961 by José Albaladejo. The brand is known for its quality shoes at affordable prices. Yanko exports 80% of its production and is primarily sold online via the Skolyx platform.

Enzo Bonafé

It was during World War II that Enzo Bonafé, then a child, and his family had to flee bombed Bologna: considerably impoverished, his family could no longer afford to shoe him, and it was particularly painful to walk barefoot in the mountains where they had taken refuge. He then vowed to make the most beautiful and comfortable shoes possible.

Enzo Bonafé is another Italian shoemaker particularly skilled in Norwegian welting, and he also obviously offers welted construction. He also stands out for his cordovan models (rather rare for an Italian shoemaker) and his GMTO (Group Made To Order) program.

Arbiter Milano

Arbiter is an Italian luxury shoe brand with over sixty years of experience. Founded by Alfonso Marciano, the company is an example of entrepreneurial success, combining traditional craftsmanship and innovation. The name « Arbiter » is inspired by Titus Petronius Arbiter, a figure of the Roman Empire known for his aesthetic taste. The brand stands out for its attention to detail, from the selection of raw materials to the rigorously Italian manufacturing. The collections combine classic-contemporary design with exceptional quality, targeting a discerning clientele seeking exclusivity and class.

Altan Bottier

Founded in 1973 in Paris by Sukru Sensozlu, this brand specializes in the manufacturing of bespoke and ready-to-wear shoes. Altan Bottier is also known for its collaborations with the film industry, museums, and the Comédie-Française.

Santoni

Founded in 1975, the Santoni brand seems relatively young compared to other houses.

However, it meticulously adheres to the traditions of shoemaking. Andrea Santoni first began working with leather before becoming interested in stitching and construction: Ultimately, it was his mastery of craftsmanship that led him to establish his brand.

With over 1000 pairs produced per day, Santoni readily pushes the limits of mass production, even transforming it into mass craftsmanship.

His method? Only hiring experienced artisan shoemakers, particularly those skilled in handmade techniques. This method allowed him to grow from a self-managed company to a multinational with over 400 employees. Santoni is a somewhat complicated brand to grasp due to its numerous lines, here is a brief summary:

-Signature/Select: Almost entirely handmade shoes, with quality close to models from Kiton and Lattanzi.
-Santoni “Fatte a Mano”: Priced around $800/$1200, largely handmade, with a Goodyear sole. They are made from full-grain lambskin.
-Santoni “Fatte A Man”: A slightly less expensive line, with a Blake sole, uppers of respectable quality but a more fashion-forward, and thus less timeless, design (less suitable for formal shoes).
-Santoni “Goodyear”: Santoni’s standard range.

Meccariello

Antonio Meccariello, founded in 2012 by artisan Antonio Meccariello, is an Italian brand of men’s shoes embodying the excellence of Neapolitan craftsmanship. Before launching his own brand, Antonio collaborated with renowned houses like Rubinacci and Kiton. However, he chose to focus on his workshop in Naples, where each pair of shoes is handmade using traditional techniques.

The brand exclusively uses high-quality materials, notably French and Italian calf leathers from reputable tanneries such as Annonay and Du Puy in France, Freudenberg in Germany, and Ilcea in Italy. Meccariello also offers exotic leather options, such as crocodile, lizard, and shark.

Artioli

The house of Artioli was founded in 1912 in Ferrara by Severino Artioli. Specializing in the artisanal manufacturing of high-end shoes, the Italian brand has been passed down from father to son over four generations. Artioli shoes are distinguished by their precious leathers, timeless lines, and comfortable fit. The house offers classic models such as oxfords, loafers, and boots, with minimalist finishes. Artioli creations embody Italian elegance and the excellence of transalpine artisanal craftsmanship. The brand caters to a discerning male clientele seeking bespoke shoes with traditional style.

Bontoni

Bontoni, an Italian luxury shoe brand founded in 2005, stands out for its dedication to traditional craftsmanship and unique approach to patina. The coloring process, which can take up to two weeks, starts with white leather and uses successive layers of waxes and creams. This technique gives each pair a unique and rich hue. The brand is also recognized for its expertise in Norwegian welting.

Caulaincourt

Founded in 2008 by Alexis Lafont, Caulaincourt is a French luxury shoe brand produced in Cholet at the Malinge workshop. It stands out for the finesse of its pairs and the excellence of its patinas.

Construction primarily uses Blake stitching, and for summer loafers, Bolognese stitching, with a few exceptions in Goodyear welt. Caulaincourt’s style is similar to that of Altan and Gustavia, characterized by bold colors and beautiful patinas. The brand specifically targets narrow feet and those seeking bold models in terms of shape and patina. It is not an option for those looking for more conservative models.

Jacques&Démeter

Jacques & Déméter is a French high-end men’s shoe brand, founded in 2011 by Maxime Van Rothem and Valentine Rousseau. Their goal is to design and manufacture shoes 100% made in France, in a workshop located in Romans-sur-Isère. They use noble materials like full-grain leather and traditional construction methods. Their timeless models, with clean lines, are produced in small, numbered series.
12 years later, the brand has specialized in rather workwear-style shoes offered in very beautiful leathers, manufactured in France at Joseph Malinge.

Weston

Founded in 1891 in Limoges by Édouard Blanchard, J.M. Weston is a French luxury shoe brand, renowned for its artisanal craftsmanship and use of high-quality leathers. The brand’s iconic models include the 180 loafer, the Chasse, the Demi-Chasse, and the Golf. J.M. Weston also stands out for the diversity of its lasts, offering multiple widths for each model. The brand owns its own tannery, Bastin et fils, which supplies the soles for its shoes. Today, J.M. Weston is an essential reference of French elegance.

Crockett&Jones

The history of Crockett & Jones is an epic of British craftsmanship, rooted in tradition and excellence. Founded 140 years ago in Northampton, this shoe house is now run by the fifth generation of the founding family, James Crockett and Charles Jones. Their workshop, one of the last in Northampton, is a sanctuary of traditional shoemaking.

Crockett & Jones’ reputation has been built over decades. As early as 1900, the brand internationalized, and its fame exploded after receiving the Diploma of Honour for Design at the Turin International Exhibition in 1911. Their expertise was even sought for Antarctic expeditions and during world conflicts. In 2017, the brand received the « Royal Warrant, » becoming an official supplier to the British crown.

Crockett & Jones’ offering is vast, suitable for various styles and foot shapes. Their « Hand Grade » collection represents the pinnacle of their craftsmanship, featuring shoes with asymmetrical lasts and superior quality leathers. The brand has also collaborated with the film industry, its shoes having been worn in films like James Bond and Kingsman.

Paul Sargent

The English shoe brand Alfred Sargent was founded in 1899 by Alfred Sargent and his sons in Rushden. After 4 generations at the helm, the brand was placed into liquidation in 2021. Paul Sargent, the founder’s great-grandson, then created the Paul Sargent brand in the same premises to perpetuate the family tradition of manufacturing high-end shoes. The new brand offers classic English models in quality leather. Paul Sargent hopes to revive the centenary heritage of Sargent shoes.

Bowen

Bowen, a French shoe brand, emerged in the 80s and made the bold choice to anchor itself in the English shoemaking tradition of Northamptonshire. Going against the grain of trends dominated by Italian shapes, Bowen opted for robust shoes with rounded lasts, made using Goodyear welting.

Master shoemaker Michel Delaunay joined the brand in 1991, infusing a touch of innovation with models like the « one cut » derbies. In 2014, Bowen consolidated its British roots by acquiring Alfred Sargent, a renowned English shoemaker. Today, the brand offers a formal range produced in Northampton and a casual range produced in Tuscany. Their perforated derby embodies the « gentleman farmer » style with neat details like large eyelets and a sturdy rubber sole. Bowen stands out for its commitment to quality and tradition, offering shoes that are both solid and elegant.

Grenson

Grenson was founded in 1866 in Rushden, England, by William Green under the name William Green & Son. It later changed its name to Grenson and became one of the first registered shoe brands in the UK in 1913. Grenson became known for its work boots and shoes, supplying the British army during World War I and II. Throughout its 155-year history, Grenson has maintained its heritage of quality shoemaking while innovating and adapting to new styles and trends. In recent years under new management, Grenson has experienced a renaissance, focusing on handmade artisanal shoes and contemporary designs. Grenson continues its tradition of English shoemaking in its Northamptonshire factory using Goodyear welted construction and premium leathers.

Cheaney

Cheaney was founded in 1886 in Desborough, England, by Joseph Cheaney. The brand specializes in manufacturing quality shoes, notably boots for the British army during both World Wars. Cheaney maintains its heritage of quality English shoemaking in its Northamptonshire factory using Goodyear welted construction and premium leathers. Since 2009, under new management, Cheaney focuses on handmade artisanal shoes and contemporary designs while preserving its tradition and reputation for manufacturing excellence. Cheaney continues to produce shoes entirely made in England.

Church’s

Church’s is an English high-end shoe brand, founded in 1873 in Northampton by Thomas Church and his sons. The brand first gained recognition by winning a gold medal at the 1881 Crystal Palace Exhibition for its revolutionary model with differentiated left and right feet. Church’s has shod the British elite and European royalty, earning a reputation for artisanal excellence and timeless elegance. Acquired in 1999 by Prada, Church’s has retained its traditional English craftsmanship in its Northampton factory while modernizing its collections. The brand remains a benchmark for high-end Goodyear welted footwear.

Barker

The Barker brand was founded in 1880 in Northamptonshire, England. Passed down through generations, Barker is a family business that has preserved its traditional values of quality and high standards. Renowned for its meticulously crafted leather shoes, Barker offers a wide selection of shoes and boots for men, from the classic Derby to the sturdy boot and the elegant Oxford. Among its distinctions, Barker controls all manufacturing stages in its English factory and uses Goodyear welted construction, synonymous with durability. The brand also ensures the comfort of its collections by favoring generous lasts.
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Vass Shoes

Laszlo Vass, a Hungarian brand, has distinguished itself by offering entirely handmade shoes for around 500 euros. It gained notoriety on forums and became a benchmark for artisanal craftsmanship.

Vass’s signature model, the Budapest, features a Hungarian Goiser welt, which is more robust and imposing than the Goodyear welt. This model is ideal for casual outfits, especially with tweed or wool flannel. Vass shoes are also available on the Budapest Schuhe e-shop, one of the few ways to buy Vass online. Representing the Budapester style, Vass shoes are characterized by their high uppers, rounded shapes, and comfort. In short, Laszlo Vass offers an affordable luxury experience without compromising on quality or style.

Alden

Founded in 1884 by Charles Alden in Massachusetts, Alden is one of the last remaining shoe factories in New England still in operation. A family brand, Alden is renowned for its artisanally crafted leather shoes such as oxfords, loafers, and chukkas. Alden has distinguished itself by offering a wide selection of superior quality models. It is particularly known for its iconic models in cordovan leather, a material prized by connoisseurs. Thanks to its craftsmanship and capacity for innovation, Alden has endured through the ages while preserving its heritage, becoming an essential reference of American masculine elegance.

Allen Edmonds

Founded in 1922 in Wisconsin, Allen Edmonds is an American brand renowned for its high-end men’s shoes. Thanks to its artisanal craftsmanship, the house offers a wide range of oxfords, derbies, loafers, and boots in full-grain leather. Among its distinctions, Allen Edmonds still masters all manufacturing stages in its Wisconsin factory today. The brand pays meticulous attention to detail and uses the Goodyear welted technique, a guarantee of quality and durability. Allen Edmonds combines timeless elegance and exceptional comfort for shoes that endure through the years with style.

Cobbler Union

Founded in 2014 in Atlanta, Cobbler Union has established itself in just a few years as a reference in high-end men’s footwear. The brand offers a wide selection of oxfords, derbies, loafers, and boots in full-grain leather manufactured in its workshops in Spain and Portugal. Cobbler Union masters traditional techniques like Goodyear welting, ensuring quality and durability. Among its strengths are good value for money and a made-to-measure service allowing personalization of each pair. Thanks to its expertise, Cobbler Union brilliantly combines timeless elegance, exceptional comfort, and attention to detail for shoes made to last.

Cnes Shoemakers

Founded in 1994 in Vietnam, the CNES.co brand specializes in the artisanal manufacturing of leather shoes. Thanks to its expertise, CNES masters various techniques like Goodyear welting, guaranteeing robustness and durability. Its workshops in Vietnam and stores in Singapore, Seoul, and Melbourne allow it to offer a wide range of oxfords, derbies, ankle boots, and boots. Besides the excellence of its materials, CNES stands out for the timeless elegance of its models with clean designs, combining classicism and modernity. The brand pays attention to the smallest detail and offers unbeatable value for money. It establishes itself as an essential reference in men’s footwear.

Maison Mauban

Mauban, founded by Edouard Quinchon, is a French shoe brand embodying the excellence of artisanal craftsmanship. With prices starting at 1500 euros, the brand positions itself in the luxury segment, using leathers from renowned French tanneries like Tannerie du Puy and Tannerie Degermann. Goodyear welting, characterized by a double welt stitch and small stitches, is at the heart of their process, ensuring exceptional durability.

Attention to detail is evident, particularly in the use of cork filling for comfort and the elegant shape of the shoes. Mauban collaborates with the Joseph Malinge workshop in Cholet, helping to revitalize a declining French shoe industry. The brand has been praised by specialized media like The Rake, which considers it a « hidden gem » in the world of luxury footwear.

Aubercy

Aubercy was founded in 1935 by Renée and André Aubercy and is run by Xavier Aubercy. It’s a brand with a typically Parisian identity, based near Saint-Germain, yet its manufacturing is more Italian: managed by Enzo Bonafé’s workshop, which includes about ten artisans. The ready-to-wear sole is systematically Blake stitched. Yes, Blake, but with quite exceptional longevity here. The materials are also carefully chosen, featuring chrome-tanned full-grain calf leather.

Bespoke work is handled by the Japanese master Yasuhiro Shiota.

Ready-to-wear at Aubercy starts at around 900 euros. For bespoke, however, the heel is Goodyear welted: a major distinction, it is hand-welted.

John Lobb

The legendary house John Lobb was founded in 1866 and acquired by Hermès in 1976. It’s notably thanks to this acquisition that the shoes can feature very high-quality leather, supplied by the parent company. It is perceived by all connoisseurs as the ultimate reference in British shoemaking.

Several points differentiate John Lobb from the competition: the straight toe cap, for example, is not an overlaid piece of leather, as is the case with other brands. Instead, it is a single piece of leather, pinched and sewn. You can take advantage of MTO (Made To Order – choice of width, color, last, etc.): the cost is generally about 15% higher, but John Lobb organizes MTO weeks without this surcharge.

Pierre Corthay

Pierre Corthay, a Compagnon du Devoir of Swiss origin, founded his eponymous brand in 1990 and was named Maître d’Art (Master of Art) by the French state in 2009, a unique distinction in the field of shoemaking. His expertise is considered part of France’s intangible national heritage. Corthay shoes are manufactured in Neuilly, with prices ranging from 850 to 1500 euros.

Corthay stands out for its blend of British and continental identity, successfully reconciling functionality and aesthetic excellence.

Edward Green

Founded in 1890, Edward Green is an iconic British brand of understated elegance and artisanal quality. Acquired in 1982 for a symbolic pound, the house innovated in leather aging techniques, such as « burnishing » and « antiquing. »

It offers a vast range of leathers for bespoke orders, comparable only to luxury brands like John Lobb and Gaziano & Girling. The Malvern model, a pair of « spectators, » particularly represents the brand’s meticulous attention to detail, from the leather lining to the elegant perforation. Edward Green is more than a shoe brand; it is a symbol of excellence and timeless elegance.

Gaziano&Girling

Launched in 2006 by Dean Girling and Tony Gaziano, the British brand Gaziano & Girling quickly distinguished itself for the finesse and innovation of its men’s shoes. Gaziano, trained at Edward Green, brought unparalleled expertise to the brand. Production combines modern techniques, like laser cutting, with traditional craftsmanship.

High-quality leathers come mainly from France and Switzerland, while the extra-slow vegetable-tanned soles are supplied by the British tannery J&FK Baker. With a fine Goodyear welt and immediate comfort from the first wear, Gaziano & Girling offers a luxury experience that merges tradition and innovation.

Paire&Fils

Paire&Fils is a French high-end men’s shoe brand, founded in 2015 in Paris by Pierre and Guillaume. Motivated by the desire to offer beautiful shoes to their loved ones, they create original models handmade in Portugal. Paire&Fils modernly revisits classic men’s footwear like derbies, oxfords, and Chelsea boots. The brand stands out for its noble materials, elegant designs, and attractive value for money. Paire&Fils cultivates a timeless style between classicism and originality.

Pied de Biche

Pied de Biche is a French high-end shoe brand, founded in 2015 by Jérôme and Matthieu. Motivated by the desire to offer quality shoes at an affordable price, they created Pied de Biche by launching a crowdfunding campaign. The brand stands out for its noble materials like Italian leather, elegant and timeless designs, and unbeatable value for money. Pied de Biche shoes are handmade in Portugal using traditional craftsmanship. Growing rapidly, Pied de Biche now has several stores in France and an e-commerce site, while remaining an independent brand that emphasizes transparency.

Jacques Solovière

Jacques Solovière is a French high-end shoe brand, launched in 2014 by Alexia Aubert. Inspired by the timeless elegance of her grandfather, the collection offers masculine and feminine models with a discreet and refined style. Jacques Solovière shoes stand out for their artisanal manufacturing, comfort, and clean design playing with materials like supple leather. The Parisian brand quickly established itself thanks to its revisited classic style and impeccable quality. Jacques Solovière now has several points of sale in France and internationally.

Bobbies

Bobbies is a French brand of shoes and leather goods founded in 2010 by Alexis Maugey and Antoine Bolze. Inspired by Parisian nonchalance, the brand offers colorful shoes, notably loafers and derbies for men. Bobbies products are made from high-end materials and carefully crafted in Portugal and Spain. The brand emphasizes traditional craftsmanship and the quality of its shoes. Since its creation, Bobbies has grown rapidly and is now present in over 50 countries, with nearly 420 multi-brand points of sale in France and worldwide.

Chippewa

Chippewa is an American brand of shoes and boots founded in 1901 in Chippewa Falls, Wisconsin. Originally, the brand specialized in manufacturing robust boots for loggers and workers in Canada and the Midwest. Its boots became popular with soldiers during World War II. In the 1950s, Chippewa diversified and launched leisure footwear. In 1984, the brand was acquired by Justin Brands, a Texas group specializing in western boots. Despite this change, Chippewa maintained its roots in manufacturing solid and durable work footwear. Today, the brand remains a reference for quality boots, handmade according to century-old expertise. Its leather boots remain its flagship product. Chippewa highlights its American heritage and its ability to offer authentic and reliable products.

Lennertson

Lennertson represents this new generation of shoemakers that particularly fascinates me with its balanced approach between ethics and aesthetics. Founded by two Belgians sharing the same first name, this young house relies on authentic Portuguese know-how, complemented by English lasts and carefully selected European leathers.

What impresses me about them is this rare commitment to mastering every production step – the founders regularly visit their workshops and personally inspect each pair before shipment. Their Goodyear construction offers durability and repairability, while their style skillfully navigates between casual and formal.

At €370, they occupy that precious sweet spot between industrial and luxury craftsmanship, offering remarkable quality without a prohibitive price.

Red Wing

Red Wing is an American brand of shoes and boots founded in 1905 by Charles H. Beckman in Red Wing, Minnesota. The brand was created to meet the needs of workers in the mining, farming, and logging industries by providing them with durable and comfortable footwear. Red Wing shoes are primarily handmade in the USA with American materials in the brand’s factories. Red Wing’s flagship products include the Iron Ranger and Classic Moc boots, which are renowned for their quality and durability. Over the years, Red Wing has evolved to adapt to changes in industries and workers’ needs, introducing steel-toed shoes and diversifying its product range to include leisure footwear.

Grant Stone

Grant Stone represents this new generation of brands breaking the traditional boundaries of the shoemaking industry. I particularly appreciate their hybrid model: an American vision, high-level Chinese production in Xiamen, and a deep understanding of both worlds thanks to the unique trajectory of its founder.

What fascinates me about them is this acknowledged connection to Alden – an inspiration that initially bordered on mimicry but gradually evolved into a more assertive identity. Technical analyses converge on a surprising finding: quality often comparable to Alden’s, sometimes with better quality control and more reassuring consistency.

Their value proposition is compelling: impeccable Goodyear constructions at significantly more accessible prices thanks to their Asian manufacturing and direct distribution. I also appreciate their offering in E and EEE widths, addressing a real need that too many traditional houses overlook.

Grant Stone perfectly embodies this virtuous globalization which, when well managed, allows for the democratization of excellence without compromising quality standards.

Wolverine

Wolverine was founded in 1883 in Michigan by G.A. Krause, who opened a leather tannery. The brand specialized in manufacturing robust boots and gloves for workers. Its iconic 1000 Mile boots made of horsehide are renowned for their comfort and durability. Over time, Wolverine adapted to workers’ needs by developing steel-toed boots and diversifying its range. Today, the brand still emphasizes quality American materials and artisanal craftsmanship to make comfortable and durable boots for demanding trades. Wolverine values its century-old American heritage in manufacturing authentic work boots.

Yuketen

Yuketen was founded in 1989 by Japanese designer Yuki Matsuda. The brand specializes in the artisanal manufacturing of boots and loafers from high-quality materials. Yuketen combines traditional American shoemaking techniques with inspirations from vintage American lifestyle and heritage. The boots are handmade in small batches in the USA using techniques like Goodyear welt construction. Yuketen uses premium leathers from renowned tanneries like Horween. The brand embodies a mix of rugged American aesthetics and Japanese refinement. Yuketen has gained a cult following thanks to its commitment to quality craftsmanship and reproduction of classic American boot styles.

Belledonne

Belledonne is a French sneaker brand created in 2018 by Antonin Chabanne, Luc Faure, and Mikael Léo. Inspired by the eponymous mountains, Belledonne offers timelessly designed sneakers manufactured ethically and responsibly. Raw materials are carefully selected in Italy, and manufacturing is done by hand in Portugal. Belledonne emphasizes transparency, short supply chains, and made in France. The brand offers sneakers with a vintage 80s/90s style with a modern touch in colors and materials. Belledonne stands out for its commitment to durable and ethical sneakers.

National Standard

National Standard is a French premium sneaker brand founded in Paris in 2010. It is among the pioneers in this segment in France. Its clean-lined sneakers are precisely designed and assembled in numbered editions, some of which have become iconic. National Standard applies a culture of refinement and a passion for craftsmanship to create high-end models. Design is central to the brand, from the product to the boutiques. National Standard highlights French artisanal expertise in its sneakers made with noble materials. The brand cultivates a timeless style blending vintage influences and modernity.

Axel Arigato

Axel Arigato is a Swedish high-end sneaker and streetwear brand, founded in 2014 by Max Svärdh and Albin Johansson. Inspired by clean Scandinavian design and Japanese influences, as the brand name suggests, Axel Arigato stands out for its minimalist sneakers with clean lines. The brand adopted an innovative « weekly drop » model with a new limited edition sneaker each week. Axel Arigato emphasizes noble materials, European artisanal manufacturing, and social media-focused marketing. The brand quickly established itself thanks to its timeless style and impeccable quality.