Best jeans for men 2025

Asphalte

Founded in 2016 in Paris, Asphalte became known for its clothing co-created with its community. Asphalte’s « Ultimate Jean » is a raw selvedge jean made in Portugal with a 14.5 oz Japanese fabric. The brand relies on a direct-to-consumer model: customers pre-order, allowing them to offer high-quality jeans for around €100. Asphalte stands out for its transparency and sustainable approach (on-demand production to avoid waste). The Ultimate Jean offers a versatile straight semi-slim cut, with solid construction (engraved rivets and buttons, sturdy selvedge fabric) and a minimalist style. In short, Asphalte offers a quality basic at a fair price, embodying European expertise without the added marketing costs.

Gustin

Gustin is a Californian brand launched in 2013 that revolutionized access to selvedge denim. Their concept: sell high-end jeans directly online through crowdfunding campaigns. Each model (cut, fabric, wash) is offered for pre-order; if enough customers commit, production begins.

This allows them to offer jeans equivalent to those costing €200 in stores for an average of $88. Gustin uses raw Japanese or American fabrics (like Cone Mills before its closure), with neat details (chain stitching, brass rivets). The jeans are made in the USA, a guarantee of quality. Gustin’s positioning is unique: affordable « San Franciscan » selvedge, where the customer waits a few weeks for their order but receives connoisseur-level jeans for a fraction of the usual price.

Available here

Dickies

Dickies, founded in Texas in 1922 by C.N. Williamson and E.E. “Colonel” Dickie, originated as a modest factory making work overalls – the U.S. Overall Company – for farm workers and mechanics in the southern United States.

In a century, the brand has become synonymous with robust and functional workwear, featuring legendary pieces like the 874 Work Pant (created in 1967, made of ultra-resistant blended twill) or the Eisenhower jacket worn by soldiers and then workers in the 1950s. What distinguishes Dickies is its extreme durability and no-frills utilitarian design: thick, stain-resistant materials, triple stitching, reinforced stress points – every detail aims for longevity. Massively adopted by American workers throughout the 20th century, the brand paradoxically found a second life outside construction sites: starting in the 90s, skaters, West Coast rappers, and street style enthusiasts appropriated Dickies pants for their simple aesthetic and ruggedness, propelling the brand to global streetwear icon status.

Today, Dickies continues to offer its timeless classics (beige, navy, or black pants, work shirts, denim overalls, etc.) and also develops more fashion-forward collections, but always with its workwear DNA firmly present. Choosing Dickies means opting for an authentic garment, born from American labor, that has stood the test of time without losing its appeal. It’s the assurance of jeans or pants that can handle anything – from the skatepark to the construction site – and a cool utilitarian style approved by both workers and trendsetters.

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Brave Star Selvage

Brave Star is a small Los Angeles-based brand offering 100% made in USA selvedge jeans at surprisingly low prices (around $100). Founded by denim industry veterans, it owns its workshop, which reduces costs. Brave Star sources American fabrics (such as Cone Mills before its closure or Mount Vernon) and Japanese fabrics for certain models. Its flagship 14 oz selvedge jeans boast a very authentic aesthetic: contrasting stitching, logoed rivets and buttons, choice of straight or slim cut. The brand emphasizes robustness (double inseam stitching, etc.) and vintage style (tan leather patch). Brave Star thus offers a true purist’s jean – selvedge fabric, local manufacturing – without breaking the bank. It’s an excellent entry point for discovering American raw denim.

Available here

The Unbranded Brand

Launched by the founders of Naked & Famous, The Unbranded Brand focuses on a radical philosophy: no logo, no marketing, just good denim at the best price. The result? Selvedge jeans around €80 offering quality rivaling much more expensive brands. The fabrics (12.5 to 21 oz) come from Japan or China, the construction is neat (bar tacks, anodized rivets), but the design remains very clean (blank leather patch, no pocket embroidery). The « no branding » approach allows the cost to be concentrated on manufacturing quality. The Slim, Tapered, or Straight cuts in the Unbranded catalog follow modern trends while remaining timeless. In short, Unbranded offers the essentials of raw jeans: beautiful selvedge fabric and solid construction, without paying for the brand name. It’s a favorite among students and young professionals who want authentic raw jeans without breaking the bank.

Carhartt WIP

Carhartt wasn’t born in fashion but on American construction sites in 1889. An absolute benchmark in workwear, the Michigan brand offers ultra-rugged entry-level jeans. The Carhartt Original Fit is a jean made from thick denim fabric (12-15 oz cotton duck) designed for work: triple main seams, riveted stress points, deep pockets.

Its style is utilitarian, with a loose straight cut designed for comfort and layering. Long confined to workers and farmers, Carhartt gained cult status in streetwear – the burgundy or raw Carhartt jeans are worn as much with work boots as with sneakers. Durability and functionality are the keywords: these jeans take a beating and last for years. In Europe, it’s the Carhartt WIP (Work In Progress) line that distributes these classic models, adapting them slightly for urban life. For around €70-100, Carhartt jeans offer an unbeatable toughness/price ratio and an authentic piece of American workwear culture.

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Uniqlo

The Japanese ready-to-wear giant democratizes quality raw jeans. For several years now, Uniqlo has offered raw selvedge jeans for less than €50, made with fabric supplied by the famous Japanese manufacturer Kaihara. This 100% cotton denim of about 11 oz is slightly softened for comfort but retains a dark indigo that will patina nicely. The cut is modern (semi-slim) and the manufacturing is very decent for the price (orange stitching, metal rivets). Uniqlo has made selvedge accessible to the general public: no need to hunt down niche brands to experience the pleasures of raw denim. Of course, at this price, the finishes are simplified (faux leather patch, etc.) and durability is slightly less than artisanal jeans, but it remains an excellent first purchase for anyone wanting to get into raw jeans. Additionally, Uniqlo offers a free alteration service in-store, practical for adjusting the length. In summary, it’s hard to find a better compromise between decent quality and mini price than Uniqlo selvedge jeans.

Blue Beach Denim

More than a brand, Blue Beach is an independent shop and label born in Taipei. Founded by denim enthusiasts, Blue Beach Denim specializes in curating exceptional jeans from Japan, Europe, and the USA. Their credo: « Good Things Age Well ». Blue Beach selects rare fabrics from major mills (Kaihara, Kurabo…) and partners with various brands to offer exclusive jeans. Their own Blue Beach jeans, produced in small quantities, often combine a vintage aesthetic (details inspired by vintage Levi’s 501s) and high-end fabrics. For example, one of their flagship models uses Japanese denim dyed with natural indigo with tricolor selvedge seams as a tribute to Taiwan. Blue Beach Denim embodies the passion for denim right down to its physical store – a true raw denim gallery in Taipei. For enthusiasts, it’s both an emerging brand and an entry point to the best brands thanks to their specialized selection (they notably distribute Oni, Tanuki, etc.). In short, Blue Beach brings an original Asian touch to the denim world, connecting East and West around jean culture.

Available here

Champs de Manoeuvres

Created in 2015 in Toulouse by two passionate friends (Ahmed and Arnaud), Champ de Manœuvres reinterprets vintage military and workwear wardrobes while anchoring its production on French soil. The brand draws inspiration from army uniforms and work clothes from the 40s to 60s, which it revisits with modernized cuts and a keen sense of authentic detail.

To achieve the quality level of yesteryear, the founders acquired vintage sewing machines (Union Special, Reece, etc.) to create robust seams and finishes « like in the old days ».

Their selvedge jeans are a perfect illustration: crafted in their Toulouse workshop within 10 days, they use a 13.5 oz raw selvedge fabric woven at Kuroki in Japan and are offered with numerous customization options (slim, fit, or regular cut, choice of raw or aged copper rivets color, choice of leather patch, etc.).

​Each order is thus almost unique, with the customer even able to choose the chainstitch thread color for the hem (yellow or red) and other finishes to their liking, a rare approach in the denim world. Beyond jeans, Champ de Manœuvres offers a complete wardrobe: chore coat style work jackets, moleskin or chambray overshirts, revisited M65 parkas, fatigue cargo pants, all made in France with noble materials (Japanese fabrics, English woolens, or even upcycled military fabrics like recycled tent canvas).

By choosing Champ de Manœuvres, one supports a young French brand combining heritage and a local approach: it’s the assurance of having an authentically vintage-looking piece, made with love in France, and offered at a fair price considering the artisanal quality and small production scale.

Available here

Nudie Jeans

A true success story from Gothenburg (Sweden) in 2001, Nudie popularized raw jeans worldwide by adding an ethical conscience. The brand uses only 100% organic cotton and promotes sustainable jean care. Each Nudie store offers free lifetime repairs for its customers – their slogan is « free repairs forever ». Style-wise, Nudie offers numerous fits (such as the Grim Tim or Lean Dean) that are rather fitted, recognizable by their orange wave-shaped stitching on the back pockets. The quality/price ratio is excellent around €150: the fabrics are often Japanese or Italian, of an intermediate weight (11 to 13.5 oz) suitable for everyday use. Nudie is also committed to reselling used jeans (Re-use program) and recycling. This blend of trendy Scandinavian design and eco-responsible commitment explains its success among the 20-35 age group. By choosing Nudie, you get trendy jeans that become comfortable once broken in, and you join a community that values every wear and tear and every repair as part of the garment’s history.

Edwin

Edwin (founded in Tokyo in 1947 by Mr. Tsunemi) is a historical pillar of Japanese denim.

Its name is an anagram of « DENIM » (with the M inverted to W), symbolizing its initial ambition: to match and then surpass American expertise in jeans. After importing US denim in the immediate post-war period, Edwin launched the first entirely Japanese-made jeans in 1961.

In the following decades, the brand distinguished itself through its spirit of innovation: in the 1970s, it introduced the concept of one-wash (factory pre-shrunk jeans) and developed revolutionary washing techniques ahead of their time, notably the stone wash, which Edwin invented and popularized worldwide.

Building on this heritage, the brand today offers a range from high-end Japanese raw denim (the « Made in Japan » collection with Kaihara or Kuroki selvedge fabrics, vintage 501-like cuts) to more accessible lines distributed internationally. Edwin thus allows purists to enjoy faithful reproductions of vintage jeans (famous ED-55 model, rainbow selvedge) while reassuring a wider audience about the quality and reliability of its products. Why choose Edwin? For its unique balance between heritage authenticity and modernity: you wear a piece of jeans history (the famous vintage lettering patch attests to this) while benefiting from the comfort, updated cuts, and technical innovations that Edwin has continuously brought to the denim sector for 75 years.

Available here

A.P.C.

A pioneer of urban raw jeans, the Parisian label A.P.C. (Atelier de Production et de Création) launched its famous New Standard jeans back in the 1980s. With its straight semi-slim cut and lack of ostentatious logo, this model won over a whole generation. A.P.C. uses a rigid 14 oz Japanese denim, unwashed, which softens and fades progressively to mold to the wearer. The minimalist design (no external branding, just a discreet patch) allows these jeans to be worn casually as well as in dressier outfits. Over time, A.P.C. has varied its fits (Petit New Standard slimmer, Standard Curve for other body types) and sometimes offers sophisticated collaborations. The price of ~€210 reflects quality construction (solid assembly, neat production in Tunisia) and its status as an icon of French menswear. An A.P.C. jean is somewhat of a rite of passage for many men worldwide – the first raw denim one lets age on oneself to achieve those sought-after vintage blue nuances.

Levi’s Premium & Made & Crafted

How can we talk about jeans without mentioning Levi’s? In this price range, Levi’s offers more refined lines than its standard 501s. Levi’s Premium generally designates improved editions of classic models: better fabric (often selvedge), neat finishes, sometimes made in the United States. For example, a 511 Premium might use Cone Mills selvedge denim and feature a genuine leather patch. You get the authentic Levi’s style but with an added perception of quality. The Made & Crafted line goes further into modernity and experimentation. Levi’s revisits its archives with reworked cuts, exclusive Japanese fabrics, and couture details. A Made & Crafted pair might have deep indigo with a printed pocket lining, or a tapered cut inspired by vintage work pants. Produced in small batches (~€250), these jeans are appreciated by Levi’s enthusiasts seeking originality. Unique in this segment, Levi’s thus offers the link between heritage and innovation: you wear a piece of jeans history while benefiting from contemporary improvements.

Benzak Denim Developers (BDD)

A Dutch brand founded in 2013 by Lennaert Nijgh, Benzak embodies the new European wave of denim. BDD combines a design tailored for Western body types (mid-rise waist, comfortable slim/straight cuts) with premium fabrics, mainly Japanese or Italian. For example, the B-01 Slim 15 oz model uses Kurabo selvedge dyed with a vivid indigo, manufactured in Portugal. Benzak stands out for its small functional details: the « hidden 6th pocket » or the offset rear belt loops for comfort. The construction quality is top-notch (durable chain stitch seams, etc.). Priced around €180-230, Benzak offers an artisanal approach without excess – it’s a serious, durable jean, but one you can wear every day. The brand also offers lighter fabrics in summer or collaborations (with renowned Japanese mills). BDD has thus become a favorite among connoisseurs in Europe, proving that exceptional denim doesn’t only come from Japan or the USA.

Available here

Companion Denim

This Barcelona-based micro-enterprise is the project of one man, Iu Franquesa, who has been sewing his jeans by hand since 2013. Companion embodies artisanal denim to the extreme: each jean (usually around €250) is cut and sewn by Iu himself, on vintage machines. The fabrics come from small Japanese or Italian mills, chosen for their character (slub, natural indigo…). For example, his Companion II model in 13.5 oz denim from the Candiani mill offers a very particular fade with wear. Companion jeans are recognizable by their colorful finishes – brass rivets sometimes tinted, often contrasting seams – and by the creator’s signature (he numbers each piece). The brand only produces a few dozen jeans per month, meaning each customer gets an almost unique jean. Style-wise, Companion mainly offers fitted straight or tapered cuts, with a retro workwear aesthetic. This slow, qualitative approach targets true enthusiasts: buying a Companion jean means supporting local expertise and obtaining a piece with a singular soul, far from industrial production. A rarity made in Catalonia, proving that Europe also has its denim masters.

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Realign Denim

Based in the Netherlands, Realign was born from the idea of « aligning » denim passion with contemporary fashion. The brand positions itself in the mid/high-end range by combining clean European design with Japanese manufacturing.

Specifically, Realign jeans are designed and patterned in the Netherlands, then crafted in reputable Japanese workshops using local fabrics. The result: Japanese manufacturing quality (ultra-regular stitches, strict quality control) serving a more modern minimalist style.

The RLGN-3 model, for example, is a 14 oz tapered selvedge jean with an indigo-black hue and a complete absence of branding on the pockets. Realign likes to play the textile innovation card: some editions use cotton/ramie blends or special natural dyes. The price is around €220-250. Realign’s value proposition is a jean for discreet purists: no large stitching or flashy leather patches, but impeccable materials and cut. A still confidential brand, it well illustrates the alliance of the best of East and West in denim.

Available here

Japan Blue Jeans

Launched in 2010 in Kojima (the birthplace of Japanese denim), Japan Blue set out to make Japanese denim accessible. An offshoot of the famous Japan Blue Group (which also owns Momotaro Jeans), the brand offers jeans around €150-200 without compromising on the fabric. It notably develops its own denims, such as a 14 oz blend of Texas cotton and African cotton, renowned for its beautiful fading potential.

The cuts range from slim to more classic straight, with a focus on comfort (Japan Blue even has models with invisible stretch elastane to satisfy the European market). Design-wise, it’s relatively sober, but note the signature detail: a blue selvedge line inside the waistband or on the pocket stitching. The brand also innovates through collaborations (e.g., jeans dyed with Okinawan indigo fruit). By buying Japan Blue, you benefit from Okayama expertise – spinning, dyeing, and weaving in-house – at an almost « entry-level » price for Made in Japan. It’s an ideal gateway into the world of authentic Japanese denim for those who want well-made, durable, and stylish jeans without reaching stratospheric prices.

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Allevol

Founded in 2005 in London by Taka Okabe, a Japanese enthusiast, Allevol (for All Evolve) is a small label that introduced Japanese denim to the British scene. The brand draws inspiration from vintage military, workwear, and outdoor clothing, which it revisits in a contemporary version. For example, its Allevol 004 jean is a straight model inspired by the 1940s Levi’s 501, made with a 14.6 oz selvedge fabric woven in Okayama. Allevol attaches particular importance to indigo dyeing and traditional Japanese techniques (some jeans are sewn with 100% cotton orange thread that patinas).

Manufacturing is often done in Japan for the denim part, while design and quality control are done in the UK – a true international mix. With prices around €170-200, Allevol offers European enthusiasts relatively affordable access to authentic Japanese quality, without having to import themselves. Its positioning is somewhat confidential, distributed in a few specialized shops (like Clutch Café in London). Wearing Allevol jeans means sporting a timeless classic style while appreciating the hidden subtleties (selvedge visible in the coin pocket, for example). A connoisseur’s brand that evolves discreetly, true to its motto « All Evolve ».

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Dao Davy

Led by designer Davy Dao, the DAO brand embodies the revival of made in France jeans by combining ecological requirements and local expertise. Born in 2012 in Nancy, the brand started as a small independent workshop and gained recognition in 2018 by launching the first 100% French-made linen jeans.

​Davy Dao, a denim enthusiast, initially wanted to counter the pitfalls of fast fashion seen during a trip to his country of origin (Vietnam): he therefore chose to control his entire production through short circuits in his workshop in Lorraine, and to use sustainable materials. The result? Selvedge jeans in GOTS-certified organic cotton and innovative jeans in a French cotton/linen blend, all labeled Origine France Garantie.

Style-wise, DAO offers contemporary cuts (slim, semi-slim…) with a clean, timeless aesthetic, prioritizing the quality of the fabric and finishes: solid seams, robust lined pockets, engraved French cast rivets and buttons. The palette ranges from classic raw indigo denim to more original fabrics (black denim, natural, or even vegetable dyes depending on limited editions). The workshop also offers customization and repair services, reflecting a truly sustainable approach to clothing. Preferring Dao Davy means supporting a pioneering approach in France – « your jeans made differently » as their slogan says – and owning a handmade jean produced in small series, traceable from thread to label, combining elegance, ethics, and artisanal authenticity.

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1083

1083 symbolizes the audacity of entirely « made in France » applied to denim. Launched in 2013 in Romans-sur-Isère by Thomas Huriez (via a resoundingly successful Ulule campaign), the brand takes its name from the 1083 km separating the two furthest cities in France – a nod to the promise that none of its jeans travel more than this distance from weaving to your closet.

The challenge for 1083: relocate all stages of jean manufacturing to France, except for cotton cultivation itself.

Mission accomplished after a few years of work: the brand established its own weaving mill in the Vosges, collaborates with garment workshops in France, and even French button manufacturers (diverting snow tire rivets to create jean buttons, an anecdote revealing their determination).

The result is eco-designed jeans made from organic or recycled cotton, spun, dyed, woven, and sewn locally, available in numerous cuts for men and women. At 1083, you’ll find classic raw fabrics, comfortable stretch denim, but also innovations like a 100% French jean including cotton grown in France (a recent project) and even sneakers made from recycled denim. The style of the jeans remains timeless and sober, appealing to the widest audience, with remarkable durability and easy care. 1083 illustrates that short-circuit production is possible without exploding prices, thanks to a cooperative and transparent model that has already created hundreds of jobs in France.

​Choosing 1083 means prioritizing a meaningful jean – supporting the local economy, minimal carbon footprint, recyclability – while sporting a modern and relaxed look. It’s the choice of reason without renouncing the passion for denim.

Atelier Tuffery

Atelier Tuffery is a true living legend of jeans: founded in 1892 in Florac (Lozère) by Célestin Tuffery, this family business is the oldest jean manufacturer in France still in operation.

At the end of the 19th century, the young Célestin, then a tailor, had the idea of making robust work trousers for the Cévenol railway workers using a raw and inexpensive Nîmes canvas – thus participating in the very invention of the « jean » alongside Levi’s.

More than 130 years and four generations later, the workshop – labeled Entreprise du Patrimoine Vivant (Living Heritage Company) – continues to handcraft jeans in its cradle of Florac, perpetuating rare and precious know-how.

​The range combines tradition and modernity: iconic models named after ancestors (the « Célestin » straight cut, the « Francois » semi-slim…) cut from high-end selvedge fabrics (Japanese or Italian) or organic denim, with brass rivets and branded buttons, and assembled with vintage seams (chain stitch, etc.). Each jean is numbered and can even be custom-ordered, testifying to the artisanal soul of the house. Atelier Tuffery has also adapted to current challenges by offering organic fabrics, sourcing some denims in France, and promoting exceptional local production. Wearing Tuffery jeans means putting on a piece of French history – the trousers worn by our workers a century ago – while enjoying impeccable craftsmanship and timeless style. An obvious choice for anyone wanting authentic made in France jeans, rich in meaning and tradition.

Atelier LaDurance

A Franco-Dutch brand founded by Gérard Backx in 2002, Atelier LaDurance left its mark on the European denim landscape in the 2000s. Although less active today, it deserves mention for its pioneering role. ALD offered made-in-Japan selvedge jeans sold in France long before raw denim became common here. Its Prescott jean (straight cut) in 14 oz fabric notably caused a sensation thanks to its luxurious finishes: delivered with a sewing kit, spare rivets, and even packaged in raw denim canvas. The brand blended workwear aesthetics (large reinforced pockets, contrasting seams) with an almost couture high-end approach. We remember the blue patch, the chambray lining on some versions, or the bandana-patterned printed pockets. In the second half of the 2010s, Atelier LaDurance ceased production, but its jeans are sought after secondhand by aficionados. It paved the way for many current brands by proving that niche European denim was viable. Those who still own ALD jeans appreciate a unique fade and exemplary durability. Although the brand is no longer marketed, its spirit lives on in new ventures (Backx subsequently collaborated on other denim lines). Atelier LaDurance will remain one of the first to have treated jeans as a luxury artisanal product in Europe.

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Lee 101

Lee has been part of the holy trinity of American denim since 1889, and its Lee 101 line celebrates this rich heritage by reissuing the brand’s iconic pieces in a modern premium version.

Designed as a high-end capsule collection, Lee 101 draws from the archives to faithfully recreate the jeans and jackets that made Lee famous, crafting them with exceptional materials (Japanese Kaihara or Kurabo selvedge denim) and meticulous attention to period details.

​It notably features the 101Z jean, originally introduced in 1926 as the first-ever zip-fly jean, revisited in raw indigo-dyed selvedge fabric, woven in Japan and rinsed multiple times to prevent shrinkage while maintaining its authenticity (straight cowboy cut, simple blue selvedge line, contrasting stitching). The famous Lee Rider 101-J jacket, created in 1948 for ranchers, is also reborn with its distinctive zigzag on the button placket and its shorter, fitted cut, tailored from high-end raw selvedge denim.

In short, Lee 101 offers the experience of true American workwear from the 1940s-50s, but with current comfort and quality. Opting for this range means choosing the seriousness and legitimacy of an American heritage brand, while benefiting from superior finishes and careful manufacturing that rival the best Japanese brands. A Lee 101 jean is a bit of the Far West DNA in your wardrobe, with the guarantee of a timeless, robust piece steeped in history.

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3sixteen

Founded in New York in 2003, 3sixteen has established itself as a benchmark brand for high-end American denim. Their jeans, made in the United States (in San Francisco), use exclusive fabrics woven in Japan in partnership with Kuroki Mill.

The flagship SL-100x model is an emblematic example: a straight slim jean in 14.5 oz selvedge fabric with a slightly slubby grain. 3sixteen stands out with a clean style but connoisseur details: American vegetable-tanned leather patch (which darkens over time), custom copper rivets and buttons, pocket bags printed with a discreet pattern. The brand has expanded its range by also offering very heavy denims (up to 17 and 22 oz) for enthusiasts, as well as collaborations (with Self Edge, Schott NYC, etc.).

Expect to pay ~€230. 3sixteen’s DNA combines artisanal quality and contemporary style: these jeans can be worn just as well in an inherited workwear context (boots, duck canvas jacket) as in a more streetwear fashion with sneakers. The brand is also recognized for its excellent customer service and follow-up, ensuring its jeans last for many years. By choosing 3sixteen, you support the revival of made in USA denim with a well-executed Japanese twist.

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Rogue Territory

Born in 2008 in Los Angeles, Rogue Territory started as a custom jeans workshop within the American Rag store.

Founded by Karl Thoennessen (later joined by Leslie Yeung), the brand quickly shifted towards high-end ready-to-wear while retaining artisanal craftsmanship. Made in California, its raw jeans are distinguished by discreet details and modern cuts that revisit American workwear classics.

RGT relies on quality selvedge fabrics (often Japanese or American) and impeccable construction, embodying a minimalist aesthetic where every stitch has intention. Added value: a « no nonsense » approach to denim, combining heritage and modernity, which appeals to purists seeking authentic, functional, and subtly original jeans.

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Tellason

Appearing in California in 2008 amidst an economic crisis, Tellason is the work of two friends, Tony Patella and Pete Searson, who wanted to return to the essence of authentic American jeans.
The brand – whose name merges the surnames Teller and Searson – set itself the mission of producing jeans « like in the good old days » entirely in San Francisco, the historical birthplace of denim, at a time when most competitors were outsourcing their production abroad. For Pete and Tony, seeing the label « Designed in San Francisco, Made in China » was simply unacceptable, almost a betrayal of blue jean history.
Thus, Tellason designs, cuts, and sews all its products locally, collaborating with a Bay Area garment workshop and supporting the local clothing economy. Tellason jeans (John Graham Mellor cut, Ladbroke Grove, etc.) were originally made from the legendary Cone Mills White Oak selvedge fabric until the mill closed in 2017. The brand has since turned to premium Japanese or Italian denims, while maintaining the same manufacturing rigor. Design-wise, no unnecessary frills: it’s classic 5-pocket, copper rivets, vegetable-tanned leather patch (from an American artisanal tannery), and a small T-shaped stitching on the back pocket as the only distinctive sign.

The cuts are straight or slim but remain comfortable, designed for prolonged daily use. Tellason targets denim enthusiasts who prioritize product sincerity: here, you pay for the quality of the material and assembly, not for marketing. By choosing Tellason, you wear jeans that respect the original spirit of vintage Levi’s – made by Californians, for Californians – and align with a sustainable approach of relocalization. In short, a return to the roots of denim: honest, solid, and timeless.

Available here

Railcar Fine Goods

Created by Steven Dang, a former train mechanic (hence the name Railcar), this small brand from Monrovia, California, is a fine example of a successful transition into denim. Railcar crafts its jeans in its own workshop with « engineer-like » rigor. The brand favors robust American or Japanese fabrics (13 to 16 oz denim), and well-designed fitted cuts – the Spikes (slim taper) and Journeyman (straight) models have gained a loyal following.

What makes Railcar unique is the attention to mechanical finishes: triple-stitched riveted seams on pockets, use of a Union Special machine for impeccable roping hems, etc. The style is classic workwear, with a thick leather patch stamped with a stylized locomotive. Sold for ~$200, Railcar jeans offer unwavering durability. The brand even offers alteration and repair services in its workshop, reflecting its commitment to making its products last. For enthusiasts, it’s « authentic American » denim made with a love for detail, by an enthusiast who transitioned from locomotive to sewing machine – a beautiful story that resonates in the final garment.

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Beams Plus

Beams is an institution in Japan, a retailer and label that has been spreading American fashion in Japan since the 1970s. Its Beams Plus line is dedicated to vintage Americana style for men, and notably offers excellent quality jeans. A Beams Plus jean is somewhat like finding a new 1960s Levi’s: thick 100% cotton selvedge fabric, classic cut (straight slightly tapered), orange and yellow stitching faithful to vintage jeans.

The difference is that it’s new and made in Japan with current expertise. For example, their Regular Selvedge Jean is made in Kojima with a 14 oz reddish indigo-dyed denim, reminiscent of old Cone Mills. The price point is around €180-220. Beams Plus jeans appeal to those who love a retro collegiate or workwear look – you can easily imagine them with loafers and an Ivy League jacket, or with Red Wings and a plaid shirt. Like all Beams Plus pieces, it’s a slightly modernized interpretation (improved comfort, clean finishes) of American classics. A safe bet for anyone wanting quality jeans with a vintage aesthetic without hunting for secondhand vintage.

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Hiroshi Kato

Under the brand KATO’ (from designer Hiroshi Kato), this house combines Japanese design with American production. It gained attention by offering a 4-way stretch selvedge denim, which provides the beauty of Japanese fabric with unparalleled comfort. Specifically, Hiroshi Kato uses selvedge denim woven with a small amount of elastane in both directions, making the jeans much more flexible (ideal for those who find raw denim too stiff initially). Kato jeans are made in Los Angeles, reflecting the meeting of cultures (Hiroshi Kato worked between Tokyo and LA for a long time). The Pen or Hammer models at Kato feature a vintage style (visible gusset pockets, leather patch adorned with the KATO’ logo) married to this technical innovation of stretch selvedge.

Offered around $250, they target an audience seeking a compromise between tradition and modernity. Beyond the innovative fabric, the construction quality is excellent, with examples like robust chambray pocket linings and brass doughnut-style buttons. Kato proves that innovation is still possible in the denim world, while respecting heritage (the brand also makes more classic 100% cotton jeans). An option to consider for those who want high-end jeans that can be worn comfortably from day one without breaking in or compromising on style.

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Naked & Famous

Appearing in Montreal in 2008 under the impetus of Brandon Svarc, Naked & Famous shook up the denim scene with creations as serious in quality as they are whimsical in approach.

The brand’s philosophy: no superfluous marketing, no celebrities showcased, 100% of the budget goes into the product. Made in Canada from Japanese selvedge fabrics, their raw jeans offer excellent value for money while pushing the boundaries of textile innovation. Naked & Famous became known for its experimental denims that have become cult classics (thermosensitive jeans that change color, glow-in-the-dark denim, ultra-heavy 32 oz fabric, bubblegum-scented scratch-and-sniff model, etc.).

Beyond these playful highlights, the brand also offers more classic ranges (Weird Guy, Super Guy cuts…) in 11 to 16 oz fabrics, always raw and unwashed. The finishes are neat (customized rivets and buttons, solid seams), and manufacturing remains local and ethical. Choosing Naked & Famous means preferring an avant-garde and fun spirit in your jeans without sacrificing quality: an ideal choice for the denim-head who wants to stand out with high-end jeans unlike any other, while supporting an independent brand with a refreshing discourse.

Available here

Sugar Cane

Neo-retro denim from Toyo (Japan), Sugar Cane distinguishes itself with jeans inspired by American workwear from the 1930s-1950s. The brand is renowned for its unique selvedge fabrics, often a blend of cotton and sugarcane fibers (hence the name), which impart a particular texture and fading potential. Models like the SC41947 (a reproduction of the 1947 501) or the Hawaii are classics, made in Japan with meticulous attention to vintage details (hidden rivets, deer leather patch, chain stitch seams).

Prices generally range around €200-250. Sugar Cane belongs to the Toyo Enterprises group, also owner of Buzz Rickson’s and Sun Surf, sharing a strong commitment to quality and historical authenticity. For lovers of vintage denim with a touch of textile originality, Sugar Cane is an essential reference.

Adriano Goldschmied (AG)

Nicknamed the « Godfather of Denim, » Italian Adriano Goldschmied co-founded Diesel and Replay before launching his own brand, AG Jeans, in Los Angeles. AG positions itself in premium fashion denim: the focus is on trendy cuts and fabric treatments. The Dylan model, for example, is a tapered slim fit in comfortable denim with a slight worn effect. AG often uses Italian or Japanese fabrics with a bit of stretch for ease, and perfectly masters the art of washing thanks to its workshops in California. AG jeans feature high-end finishes (printed linings, engraved rivets) and a clean, chic aesthetic – closer to luxury ready-to-wear than traditional raw denim. Expect to pay ~€220. These are the jeans found in high-end retailers and worn by celebrities for their modern, neat look. AG Jeans also has an « AG-ed » range offering reproductions of rigid vintage fabrics to appeal to a heritage audience. But its real strength remains in premium everyday jeans: well-cut, comfortable to wear, current style. For a man looking for quality jeans to wear to the office or evening out rather than to break in for 6 months, AG is a safe bet, embodying the bridge between the founder’s Italian heritage and Californian coolness.

Shockoe Atelier

In the heart of Richmond, Virginia, Shockoe Atelier has been handcrafting jeans since 2012. This family business (founded by Anthony and Pierre Giusti, father and son) draws inspiration from its Italian roots and tailoring tradition. The result: jeans blending American craftsmanship with European elegance. Shockoe selects premium Japanese fabrics (Kuroki, Kaihara…) often in the 13-15 oz range, and makes each piece to order in its workshop adjacent to the boutique. The manufacturing time (about ten hours of work per jean) is much longer than industrial production, and it shows in the details: clean taped inner seams, robust lined pockets, millimeter-perfect alignments. The Shockoe style aims to be slightly dressier than classic raw denim – for example, their Slim Kojima jean has a very neat semi-slim cut and is also offered in rinsed black for a chic urban look. The brand also offers free lifetime repairs and excellent customer feedback on longevity (they even guarantee their jeans against defects). At ~€250, a Shockoe jean represents an investment in a garment made like a bespoke suit – except it’s a jean you can wear every day. Shockoe’s philosophy (« small batch denim ») appeals to those seeking jeans with a human dimension, made with passion and rigor, and a timeless, slightly refined style.

Alex Mill

This young New York brand (founded in 2012 by Alex Drexler, son of the former J.Crew CEO) offers updated menswear essentials. For denim, Alex Mill focuses on a recreated vintage American spirit. Its Standard Jean, for example, uses a 13 oz denim fabric from Cone Mills or similar, with a light stonewash for an already lived-in look. The cut is a comfortable straight fit, mid-rise – a nod to 90s jeans updated for today. Alex Mill pays attention to functional finishes (solid button fly, traditional orange stitching). It’s not raw denim for purists, but rather very good quality casual jeans, ready to wear upon purchase. The brand draws inspiration from preppy and New York workwear styles; these jeans pair easily with their oxford shirts or cotton jackets. Around €150-160, you get jeans of higher quality than major mainstream retailers, while staying within a moderate budget. Alex Mill differentiates itself with its honest approach and lack of flashy logos – somewhat the spirit of « old J.Crew ». For a man seeking simple, well-cut jeans, without extreme fashion effects but with character, Alex Mill is a relevant choice, embodying that cool New York classicism.

Corridor NYC

Launched in New York in 2013 by Dan Snyder, Corridor offers a contemporary vision of the men’s wardrobe, blending workwear influences with modern urban sensibility.

Unlike purely heritage brands, Corridor doesn’t limit itself to rigid raw denim: the designer favors comfortable materials (including denim) and current cuts for clothes « ready-to-live-in » in the city. Inspired by New York life, the brand incorporates utilitarian nods (overshirts, revisited work jackets) while remaining resolutely modern – Dan Snyder actually claims a new American sportswear style rather than retro nostalgia.

Corridor jeans, often made from medium-weight Japanese selvedge denim, reflect this approach: a contemporary twist on a workwear basic, with neat finishes and a clean design. Corridor’s value lies in its balance between authenticity and innovation: one opts for this brand for its sharp New York designer aesthetic, its ethical commitment (responsible manufacturing in small workshops), and its ability to offer denim that is stylish, easy to wear daily, and faithful to the original workwear spirit.

The Flat Head

Founded in 1996 by Masayoshi Kobayashi in Nagano, The Flat Head draws inspiration from the rockabilly culture of the 1950s – music, motorcycles, and vintage Americana – to offer denim with a strong character.

A true favorite among aficionados, the brand has built a reputation thanks to an extraordinary level of artisanal quality and an obsession for detail. Its selvedge jeans, tightly woven from specially selected cotton (often Zimbabwean), are famous for their unique vertical fading: with wear, the fabric develops extremely contrasted fades with pronounced vertical streaks, a visual signature of The Flat Head denim.

Each jean is designed to « improve » over time: robust seams, custom rivets and buttons, back pockets with discreet arcuate stitching, everything is done so that after months of wear, the jean tells the owner’s story. Kobayashi’s philosophy is that clothing only reaches its true perfection once patinated by the life of the wearer.

Besides jeans, the brand offers vegetable-tanned leather belts and accessories, 1950s-inspired plaid shirts, thick cotton tube t-shirts, and even horsehide jackets – always with the same authentic rock’n’roll spirit. Choosing The Flat Head means opting for a total denim experience: that of an exclusive jean, with an assertive retro-Americana style, whose fades are among the most coveted in the world, and which targets those who live their passion for denim as a lifestyle.

Available here

Studio d’Artisan

Founded in 1979 in Osaka, Studio d’Artisan is part of the legendary « Osaka Five » and was one of the pioneers of the Japanese denim revival.

From the beginning, the brand set itself the mission of recreating the most authentic jeans possible: exceptional Japanese selvedge fabrics, dyed with natural indigo, high-end vintage accessories, and construction using traditional methods.

An icon of the brand, the leather patch adorned with two little pigs reminds us that Studio d’Artisan knows how to blend seriousness with whimsy – a humorous nod in a very purist universe.

The jeans, mostly unsanforized (raw shrink-to-fit), offer classic cuts inspired by vintage Levi’s 501s, with copper rivets, chainstitch seams, and traditional selvedge lines. With over 40 years of expertise, Studio d’Artisan has expanded its offering to other pieces (Type II jackets, chambray shirts, loopwheeled fleece sweatshirts), always with the same level of artisanal requirement. Preferring Studio d’Artisan means opting for « heritage » denim made by one of the most respected brands in the world, a guarantee of unparalleled quality and a playful spirit reminding us that jeans are also made for pleasure.

Available here

orSlow

Created in 2005 by Ichiro Nakatsu, orSlow adopts a philosophy of slow time, reacting against fast fashion.

​Its very name evokes controlled slowness: the brand designs and manufactures its clothes « slowly, » favoring artisanal methods and timeless designs. Inspired by vintage American workwear and 20th-century military uniforms, Nakatsu recreates classic silhouettes (50s cut jeans, fatigue jackets, chambray shirts) with all the Japanese care for quality and detail.

orSlow jeans, made in Japan from selvedge fabrics often one-washed to stabilize the denim, offer immediate comfort and an authentically aged look. The brand uses exceptional fabrics, slowly woven on shuttle looms, and favors deep indigo shades and fabrics with a « vintage » feel. No flashy logos or fashion trends at orSlow: the palette is sober, the cuts balanced, designed to last for years and patina beautifully over time.

In a denim market sometimes dominated by one-upmanship, orSlow brings welcome serenity – it’s the brand for those who cherish durability, simplicity, and the authenticity of a good jean that transcends seasons without ever going out of style.

Available here

Samurai Jeans

Since 1998, the Japanese brand Samurai (founded in Osaka by Tohru Nogami) lives up to its name: it infuses the spirit of samurai into jeans of legendary robustness.

A true institution for raw denim enthusiasts, Samurai is renowned for its ultra-heavyweight selvedge fabrics (reaching up to 25 oz) that defy conventions in terms of thickness and durability.

Each model is packed with references to Japanese warrior culture – from the katana-shaped logo to traditional motifs on patches and packaging – making the ritual of wearing in the jeans a true « way of the samurai. » The brand’s expertise translates into meticulous attention to detail and impeccable construction: deep indigo dyes, specific selvedge lines (some with a silver thread evoking a sword blade), and cuts inspired by vintage American jeans but adjusted for modern comfort. By wearing Samurai, the initiate engages in a stylistic battle: the new jean is stiff and demanding, but the spectacular fades it develops are worth the challenge. Choosing Samurai Jeans means preferring extreme and passionate denim, where Japanese tradition and textile performance meet to offer one of the strongest and most iconic jeans on the market.

Available here

Full Count

Full Count is part of the legendary « Osaka Five » club, the first five brands that launched the high-end denim movement in Japan in the 1990s. Founder Mikiharu Tsujita notably innovated by using Zimbabwean cotton for his fabrics, renowned for its extra-long staple. A Full Count 1108 jean, for example, is made from 13.7 oz 100% Zimbabwean denim, giving it a surprisingly soft touch and very high-contrast fading over time.

Full Count’s philosophy is to recreate the American 501 from the 1940s-50s down to the smallest detail (slightly slim straight cut, cowhide leather patch, copper rivets), while ensuring superior comfort thanks to this particular raw material. The result is jeans that are easy to wear despite being raw fabric – a balance between robustness and suppleness. The brand perpetuates very traditional know-how: deep indigo dyeing, weaving on old looms, and manufacturing in small Okayama workshops. With a price tag of ~€300, you pay for total authenticity and limited production. Full Count remains slightly less known in Europe than some competitors, but among vintage denim enthusiasts, it’s a revered name. Owning a Full Count means treating yourself to an experience of original Japanese denim, the kind that shifted the supremacy of quality jeans from Nevada to Osaka in the 90s.

Available here

Momotaro Jean’s

Founded in 2006 in Kojima (Okayama) by Hisao Manabe, Momotaro has established itself as one of the absolute references in Japanese denim.

The brand is part of the Japan Blue Group and embodies uncompromising craftsmanship: selvedge fabric woven on old looms, traditional indigo dyeing, and frequent use of Zimbabwean cotton to combine softness and robustness.

An essential symbol, its two white « Going to Battle » stripes painted on the back pocket pay homage to the legend of the peach boy Momotaro and sign each jean with an emblematic warrior aura.

Varied but resolutely heritage cuts, exemplary finishes (hidden rivets, peach-motif embossed leather patch) and signature details like the pink thread in the seams testify to extreme perfectionism.

Preferring Momotaro means choosing exceptional « Made in Japan » jeans, with magnificent fades and strong cultural storytelling, prized by connoisseurs ready to invest in quality.

Available here

Iron Heart

If you’re looking for the heaviest, most resistant jeans, look no further: Iron Heart is the benchmark for ultra-heavy fabrics. Founded by Shinichi Haraki, a motorcycle enthusiast, the brand designs jeans capable of keeping warm and protecting on the road. Its iconic 634S model uses a 21 oz selvedge fabric (nearly 600 g/m²!) specifically developed to combine thickness with surprising softness. Iron Heart has thus managed to create heavy denim that remains relatively supple thanks to special weaving and combed cotton. The 634S jean has a classic straight cut, designed for comfort during prolonged sitting (biker needs). Other models go even further: 25 oz, 32 oz, pushing the limits of what’s weaveable! Manufacturing-wise, everything is done rigorously in Japan: the patch is thick vegetable-tanned leather, the buttons and rivets are very robust iron or burnished brass.

The Iron Heart style is sober but recognizable by the extremely dense stitching (about 7 stitches/cm) and this very dark indigo fabric that takes time to fade. Expect to pay €320-400. These jeans are virtually indestructible and will fade slowly, revealing subtle nuances rather than flashy contrasts. Iron Heart has built a true community of fanatics around its denim, proud to wear their jeans for ten years or more. It’s the quintessential purist denim, uncompromising, where every fade is earned through miles traveled or work done. Investing in an Iron Heart means equipping yourself for life, in the spirit of « Made like a tank ».

Available here

Kapital

Much more than a jeans brand, Kapital is a UFO of Japanese fashion based in Kojima. Its universe blends American-Japanese heritage with a bohemian and playful spirit. Kapital jeans range from the most classic (straight cut raw in their Centurion range) to the most eccentric: famous Patchwork or boro jeans (patched with multiple fabrics), Okabilly models with tie-dye effects, or the famous « Bone » jean, whose embroidered seams evoke bones. Beyond these stylistic follies, Kapital perfectly masters construction – many of their jeans are made from very fine quality 14 oz selvedge denim, with heritage details (vintage rivets, visible selvedge seams).

This dual aspect (serious quality + wild design) means Kapital attracts both purist denim enthusiasts and fashionistas. The price, often >€300, reflects the small production and complexity of some models (patchworks are hand-sewn). Owning Kapital jeans means making a strong style statement: even their simple raw « Cisco » jean usually has a twist (e.g., different indigo shades on the waistband vs. the legs). The brand also draws inspiration from Japanese folklore – we’ve seen jeans dyed with natural indigo and sashiko printed by them. In summary, Kapital is denim with an avant-garde twist: one foot in tradition (Kapital is located in the capital of Japanese jeans) and the other in the wildest artistic experimentation.

Available here

45R

Less known outside Japan, 45R (formerly 45rpm) is an ultra-high-end Japanese house that excels in the art of indigo. Their jeans are crafted in Japan in very small quantities, often using artisanal processes. For example, the brand is renowned for its ai denim dyed with fermented natural indigo, a long and costly dyeing process that yields a deep blue with vibrant nuances.

A 45R jean can cost €500 or more, as everything is done by hand: from weaving on old manual looms to traditional dyeing. These jeans often have exquisite finishes – engraved aged brass buttons, hand stitching on certain parts, indigo leather patch. The 45R style remains clean and elegant: fairly classic straight cut, minimalism in visible details (no pocket embroidery, for example, Japanese sobriety requires). The idea is to sublimate the denim itself, treated as a noble textile.

Over time, a 45R jean will fade very slowly, maintaining soft contrasts. It’s an absolute connoisseur’s choice, almost a wearable art object. Distribution is confidential (a few 45R boutiques worldwide, none in France), making these jeans rare. 45R demonstrates that denim can reach a level of artisanal luxury equivalent to haute couture – a segment where only a few initiates venture, but which guarantees a truly unique piece.

Available here

Neighborhood

Hailing from the Ura-Harajuku scene (Tokyo streetwear of the 90s), Neighborhood has successfully blended biker/military aesthetics with Japanese quality. Its flagship jeans, the Savage models, are made from 14 oz Japanese selvedge fabric and come in slim or straight cuts. The brand stands out for its stylized washes and finishes: the Dirty Savage, for example, comes heavily distressed, covered in faux oil stains and controlled rips for a rugged look. Conversely, the Rigid Savage is raw, ready to be shaped by the wearer.

You often find a small « ＮBHD » logo printed or embroidered on the back pocket, a sign of belonging to the Neighborhood tribe. Beyond the « bad boy » style, the construction is serious – Neighborhood collaborates with the best workshops in Okayama. The price of ~€300 is explained by this dual fashion and technical dimension. Wearing Neighborhood jeans means sporting a sharp Japanese street look, associated with motorcycle/cafe racer culture (many of their stylings include leather jackets, wallet chains, etc.). The brand also offers more eccentric jeans (camouflage prints, skull embroideries). However, even their statement pieces remain wearable because they are rooted in a dark and masculine palette. Neighborhood targets those who want denim with visual character while ensuring Made in Japan quality. A winning combination that has made the brand a pillar of Japanese menswear for nearly 30 years.

Available here

Oni Denim

Mysterious and revered, Oni (demon in Japanese) lives up to its name as its fabrics seem otherworldly. Legend has it that a single master weaver, nicknamed « Oni, » produces these denims on antique looms. The result is extremely textured selvedge denim, with an irregular grain and pronounced bumps – a very marked « slubby neppy » effect unique to Oni. The classic Oni 622 model (16 oz) thus displays an almost relief-like surface, yielding spectacular fades with pronounced contrasts.

Oni also innovates by offering rare blends: hand-reeled cotton, extra-loose yarn for ultra-airy 12 oz denim, or conversely, super heavy 20 oz highly textured fabrics. Oni jeans are made in Japan in small batches, without design frills (the fabric is the star). However, their stylized demon logo on the red leather patch is recognizable. Rather expensive (~€280-350), they offer a very specific experience to denim geeks. The cuts are generally semi-slim or tapered to suit current tastes, making these extreme fabrics wearable daily. Oni embodies the avant-garde of Japanese denim, seeking to push the technical limits of weaving. Wearing Oni means sporting jeans unlike any other, both visually and texturally. It also means entering a club of initiates fascinated by this manufacturing mystery – the brand plays on this and reveals little information, reinforcing the myth. An exceptional choice for collectors of extraordinary denim.

Available here

Tanuki

Tanuki, named after the mischievous raccoon dog of Japanese folklore, is a relatively recent brand (2016) but quickly gained respect among enthusiasts. Founded by an anonymous collective of denim master artisans, Tanuki’s mission is to marry tradition and innovation. Their jeans feature a light blue « ≡ » symbol stitched on the back pocket – the only distinctive sign, no written brand name.

Tanuki develops its own exclusive fabrics, identified by letters: the « NI » series (Natural Indigo) is dyed with natural indigo giving a luminous blue, the « RW » series (Retro Vintage) mimics a 40s vintage texture, etc. A Tanuki feat is the 15 oz Kawarimi fabric which blends three types of cotton (US, Australian, Japanese) for a unique result. Construction is top-notch (chain stitch, custom rivets), and the brand often offers neat presentation (jeans delivered in a furoshiki). Regarding cuts: Tanuki offers straight, slim, tapered, generally ensuring very comfortable wear. The price point of ~€300 reflects the research and low production volume. Tanuki aims to be a transparent brand about its methods, despite the founders’ anonymity – each jean comes with a small explanatory text about the fabric used. In just a few years, it has built a solid reputation among hardcore Western denim heads. Wearing Tanuki means showcasing a love for detail and Japanese quality, without a loud logo but with that discreet « ≡ » symbol that only connoisseurs will recognize. A playful and perfectionist spirit, like the tanuki itself, bringing a breath of fresh air to the high-end Japanese denim scene.

Available here

Stevenson Overall Co.

This Japanese brand founded by Zip Stevenson and Atsusuke Tagaya specializes in reproducing pre-war jeans with a modern touch. Stevenson Overall draws its models from archives of early 20th-century American workwear. For example, its 727 La Jolla jean is inspired by 1910s work trousers: it features a cinch back and suspender buttons, elements rarely seen on contemporary jeans. Yet, the cut is revised to suit the modern man (comfortable straight). The fabric is high-level Japanese, 13 oz sanforized in this case, giving a soft drape from the start.

Stevenson Overall also likes to innovate in pattern details: some back pockets have rounded corners, belt loops are sometimes inserted into the waistband instead of just sewn on. These subtleties give SOC jeans a sophisticated vintage look. Made in Japan, they cost ~€300. The brand also offers jeans without visible retro aspects, but always with unique characteristics (curved seams, etc.). Ultimately, Stevenson Overall appeals to those who want jeans that are « not like everyone else’s » but without extravagance, rather an elegant variation of the classic. It’s a blend of nostalgia – you feel the soul of vintage clothing – and Japanese rigor in execution. A Stevenson jean is like wearing a piece of history recreated with contemporary perfection.

Available here

Chimala

Chimala is a Japanese label founded by Noriko Machida, specializing in recreating vintage utility clothing with meticulous finishing. Their jeans are often unrecognizable as they are artificially aged by hand to resemble genuine vintage jeans worn for 50 years. Each Chimala jean can undergo hours of treatments: abrasions, washes, dyes, hand mending… The result is unique pieces sold around €400-500, often available in specialized boutiques (e.g., Chimala was sold at J.Crew in their very high-end « In Good Company » section).

A distressed Chimala jean, for example, will feature subtle tears at the knees, fake rust marks around the rivets, very nuanced fading – a perfect trompe-l’œil of old Americana. The base fabric is quality Japanese denim and the cut is classic (usually a somewhat loose straight fit, unisex). Chimala also offers raw jeans, but its success comes mainly from these vintage finishes. It’s the quintessence of Japanese wabi-sabi applied to denim: the beauty of the worn, the patinated, but achieved without waiting decades. Some raw purists see it only as an artifice, but others appreciate the immediate style Chimala offers, indistinguishable from a real old piece. Thus, buying Chimala jeans means buying time passed – you pay for the aging work. For a vintage aesthetic enthusiast who lacks the patience or luck to find the perfect Levi’s Big E at flea markets, Chimala offers an ultra-premium alternative.

Available here

Blue Blue Japan

A Tokyo brand founded in 1996, Blue Blue Japan is dedicated to indigo blue in all its forms. Their jeans embody this philosophy: crafted in Japanese workshops, they are generally dyed traditionally, often with natural indigo. The typical BBJ model is a straight cut jean (neither too slim nor too wide), in 14 oz denim dyed with vegetable indigo, perhaps with a touch of originality like a colored selvedge line or a sashiko pocket interior. Blue Blue Japan enjoys playing with shades of blue – some jeans come in very light indigo hues or, conversely, almost black, and fade uniquely. Respect for craftsmanship is central: the brand sometimes collaborates with master dyers from Tokushima (a region renowned for natural indigo) to dye its yarns. The finishes and construction are excellent, without being ostentatious (indigo leather patch, sometimes blued rivets). Expect to pay around €300. Wearing Blue Blue Japan jeans means displaying a subtle Japanese style: no large logos, but the depth of the color catches the discerning eye. It also means adhering to a slow fashion philosophy – many Blue Blue Japan items are produced in limited quantities, and the brand encourages wearing them for a long time to appreciate the evolution of the shade. In short, a BBJ jean is almost a spiritual piece for indigo lovers, who will see more than just a garment, a connection to nature and tradition within a modern fashion framework.

Available here

The Real McCoy’s

Based in Kobe, TRM is renowned for making the most faithful reproductions of US military equipment, from perfectos to vintage sweats. Obviously, they also make jeans, and with the same obsession for sticking to the original. Their flagship jean, the Lot.001XX, is modeled after the 1947 Levi’s 501: cut, seams, even denim weight (12oz) – all woven on shuttle looms with American cotton like back then. The difference is that where Levi’s LVC aims for fidelity, Real McCoy’s pushes authenticity even further: for example, they use cotton thread for seams that will shrink and create slight puckering after washing, as seen on real vintage jeans.

Down to the slightly irregular indigo shade, everything is designed so that the new jean looks like it came out of 1940s stock. Even the inner labels and the font shape on the leather patch are meticulously recreated. It’s the extreme level of Japanese detail. These jeans cost ~€330. TRM also offers reproductions of rarer jeans, like a 1937 Buckle Back model (with a back cinch) that delights collectors, or antique denim overalls. The benefit of buying from Real McCoy’s rather than Levi’s Vintage is the guarantee of meticulous quality control: no size surprises or defects, and impeccable construction (Levi’s sometimes outsources with slight variations). For the absolute purist who wants the Levi’s Marlon Brando might have worn, TRM is the go-to address. It’s expensive, but you’re buying the equivalent of an unobtainable original in new condition. A Real McCoy’s jean will also patina almost exactly like an authentic old one thanks to these material choices. In a word, it’s the quintessence of high-end Japanese repro applied to denim.

Available here

Pherrow’s

Established in 1991 in Osaka, Pherrow’s (initially spelled Ferroz) is another brand heir to the first wave of denim reproduction. Less publicized than its counterparts, it offers very high-quality jeans, often inspired by vintage Levi’s 501s or 511s, but discreetly revisited. For example, the Pherrow’s 451 is a 14 oz straight cut selvedge jean that captures the spirit of the 501 ’66 while offering a slightly lower rise to suit modern habits. The patch features an illustration of two trains (a humorous nod to the original « 2 horses pulling the Levi’s canvas »). Pherrow’s positions itself slightly lower in price (around €250) while offering serious Made in Japan denim.

The brand uses Zimbabwean or US cotton, seeking classic vintage renderings (slightly grayed indigo shade to simulate aging). It attaches importance to hidden details: selvedge on the coin pocket, aluminum inner rivets like in the 60s, etc. Less hyped than others, Pherrow’s has its loyal followers, often connoisseurs who appreciate its excellent quality-price ratio. The style is very sober – no embroidery or branded stitching, just a small patch and sometimes a line of decorative stitches on the back pockets. These are jeans that will suit those who want authentic Japanese denim without extravagance, usable in any situation. In a sense, Pherrow’s embodies the continuity of the Osaka 5 tradition in a humble and effective way, where some competitors have gone into heavy innovation or international marketing. A trusted brand for durable raw jeans with that vintage Made in Japan flair.

Available here

Warehouse & Co.

Last but not least of the Osaka Five, Warehouse (founded in 1995) is adored by purists for its archaeological approach to denim. Their credo: slow manufacturing (« slow clothing »), with fabrics called Deadstock Blue that reproduce the unique color of unworn vintage Levi’s preserved for decades. A Warehouse Lot 800 jean (their standard model) uses 14.5 oz denim woven at low tension to mimic the texture and shade of 60s denim rolls, with that slightly « faded » blue right from the start. The 800 cut is a classic fitted straight. But Warehouse offers many other lots, like the Lot 1001xx 1943 which replicates a wartime jean (with burnished brass buttons and painted arcuates, as decorative stitching was replaced by paint on Levi’s during the war).

This level of detail amuses collectors: Warehouse even packages some jeans in brown paper like back then. All handcrafted in Japan, for ~€270. Their jeans have a reputation for being very faithful and aging beautifully, with controlled shrinkage like the original unsanforized ones (read the instructions carefully, often requiring soaking then wearing damp to mold to the body, old school!). Wearing Warehouse means embracing the nostalgia of vintage denim in its most romantic form – the idea of rediscovering the sensations of a new 1950s jean that you’d be the first to break in. Among aficionados, many consider Warehouse to offer the best 501 repros on the market in terms of fade and cotton comfort once broken in. The brand remains discreet, without excessive advertising, but its longevity testifies to its excellence. An essential choice for anyone aiming for 100% uncompromising vintage jeans, as if pulled from a trunk from the past.

Available here

Junya Watanabe

Junya Watanabe, an avant-garde Japanese designer trained at Comme des Garçons, has applied his conceptual genius to denim pieces in his men’s line since the 2000s. Rather than a traditional jeans brand, he is a fashion designer who integrates denim as a medium for experimentation. Known for his iconic collaborations with Levi’s, Carhartt, or Converse, Junya Watanabe revisits workwear classics (501 jeans, denim jacket, hunting coat) infusing them with unexpected cuts and perplexing details.

Patchworks of different fabrics, contrasting leather or tweed panels, visible topstitching, and asymmetrical constructions are part of his stylistic vocabulary. It’s not uncommon to see, for example, a Junya Watanabe denim jacket lined with vintage camouflage fabric or embellished with additional utility pockets, blurring the line between workwear and runway piece. His approach is both edgy and respectful of craftsmanship: the pieces are made in Japan with meticulous care worthy of haute couture, giving them unique quality and aura.

Preferring Junya Watanabe Man means choosing exceptional denim entirely rethought by a visionary designer – jeans for discerning aesthetes, who see utility clothing as a field for artistic expression and a collector’s item.

Available here

RRL (Double RL)

A line founded in 1993 by Ralph Lauren as a tribute to his Colorado ranch, Double RL draws from the imagery of the Far West and vintage America. RRL jeans are thus true reproductions of past models, with meticulous attention to detail. You find, for example, the RRL Low Straight inspired by 1920s miners’ jeans: 16 oz selvedge denim woven in North Carolina, shank buttons like on antique jeans, tan leather patch embossed « Double RL & Co. », loose cut. Others, like the RRL Slim Narrow, evoke more the 1950s (more fitted cut, 14 oz Japanese fabric sulfur-dyed for a deep black). RRL doesn’t hesitate to have its denims made in Japan to get the best, then finish them in the USA.

RRL lookbooks are famous for their retro aesthetic: they look like sepia photos of old cowboys or 50s bikers. Wearing RRL is like stepping into a period film – the jeans are often sold already rinsed or slightly aged to enhance authenticity. At ~€300, you also pay for the Ralph Lauren brand, but you get an impeccable, highly collectible product. RRL sometimes distributes small limited series (e.g., jeans with riveted coin pocket and cinch back like in 1937). For many enthusiasts, it’s the gateway to luxury American heritage denim. Note: RRL is rare in Europe (only a few RL boutiques or specialized resellers). In short, Double RL embodies the romance of American denim, revisited with modern quality standards and a unique sense of storytelling.

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Mister Freedom

An emblem of transpacific collaboration, Mister Freedom is the brand of Frenchman Christophe Loiron, based in Los Angeles, who designs clothing inspired by vintage Americana and often has it produced in Japan. His « MFSC Naval Clothing Tailor » jeans series in partnership with Sugar Cane made a mark: these jeans incorporated details from 40s naval trousers (such as chino-style front pockets, back lacing) in superb Japanese selvedge fabric.

Mister Freedom does nothing like the others: the Californian jean (from his Californian sportswear range) uses 12 oz denim spun in Japan but sewn in the USA, all with a patch featuring a 50s-style pin-up drawing. The brand loves creating imaginary scenarios for its collections, and each jean tells a story (supplied with a detailed spiel by Loiron). In terms of quality, it’s impeccable, often backed by experts like Sugar Cane. You pay ~€320 for jeans from a small production run, almost a collector’s item. MF style oscillates between military workwear and retro western, always with thorough documentary research. For example, they reproduced a « Marine Nationale » denim in grey indigo for one of their jeans. Wearing Mister Freedom means asserting a unique vintage look – far from mainstream standards – and supporting a truly artistic vision of clothing. It’s the crossing of French touch and Japanese know-how under the Californian sun. A niche proposition for lovers of clothes rich in stories.

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Levi’s Vintage Clothing (LVC)

LVC is the division of Levi’s that faithfully recreates the brand’s historical models. A true Ali Baba’s cave for purists, LVC releases reissues of the 501 from different eras every year: 1890, 1920, 1947, 1955, 1966… Each reproduction pushes detail to the point of using fabrics similar to the original (sometimes woven at Cone Mills before its closure, or now in Japan) and identical cuts, with period imperfections. For example, the 1947 LVC 501 is made from 12 oz sanforized denim, fitted straight leg cut, genuine leather patch saying « Every Garment Guaranteed » like back then. The 1890 LVC 501 has a single back pocket and suspender buttons, like the very first Levi’s.

Owning an LVC is like holding a museum piece – but one that can indeed be worn daily. Levi’s produces these jeans in the USA or Japan depending on the year, in limited, sometimes numbered quantities. Beyond the 501, LVC also remakes 60s 505s (slim model), or historical Type I, II, III jackets. Prices range from €250 to €400 depending on the model. It’s expensive for Levi’s, but justified by historical rigor and quality: LVC jeans often have enormous longevity and patina beautifully. For Levi’s lovers, it’s the ultimate range that allows wearing a legend – the kind of jeans where you happily tell anyone who will listen the year and history of the model. An LVC 501 is the DNA of the jean restored in its purest form, connecting the wearer to the pioneers of the West or the rockers of the fifties depending on the year chosen.

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Billionaire Boys Club (BBC)

Founded by musician Pharrell Williams and Japanese designer Nigo in 2005, BBC is fundamentally a luxury streetwear label heavily focused on cosmic graphics and pop imagery. If mentioned here, it’s because the brand offered some notable high-end jeans in the 2000s-2010s, which have become collectors’ items. For example, the famous « Dollar & Diamond » Jean featured embroidery of diamonds and green dollars on the pockets – an ostentatious symbol of the luxury hip-hop style of the era. But BBC also released more sober Japanese selvedge jeans, always with a fun touch (astronaut-printed pocket lining, holographic patch…).

The positioning is high (€300+) because production is limited and the brand capitalizes on its hype prestige. Technically, BBC jeans are well-made (Nigo, also founder of BAPE, ensured Made in Japan quality on certain pieces). The style is clearly for those who want to stand out: rather straight or baggy cuts depending on trends, and highly visible logos. Today, BBC has evolved and offers less flashy denim, but retains a special place. Wearing Billionaire Boys Club jeans is a nod to the years when streetwear fashion flirted unabashedly with luxury. It’s also an archival piece of pop culture if you find the original editions. In any case, the brand embraces the idea that jeans can be a canvas for creative and playful expression, even in the high-end segment.

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Jacob Cohën

Symbol of luxury Italian jeans, Jacob Cohën was founded in Veneto in 1985 and established itself in chic boutiques in the 2000s. Here, denim becomes a refined, couture product. Jacob Cohën jeans are generally made from high-end Japanese denim (Kurabo, Kaihara) or velvet, with very clean slim or straight cuts. But it’s the details that justify the price (€400-600): colored pony hair patch (blue, red…), often scented with a house fragrance, silver-plated rivets, sometimes contrasting linen thread stitching, and each jean comes with a small printed pocket square. The brand highlights artisanal manufacturing in Italy – each jean passes through many hands, whether for subtle washes or detail application. The style is clearly oriented towards an « affluent lifestyle »: light blue Jacob Cohën jeans with slight whiskering pair easily with a shirt and sport coat. It offers comfort (fabrics often contain 2% elastane for flexibility) and exclusivity (limited series, sometimes numbered). Some fans collect the different editions and their matching pocket squares. Of course, we’re far from the raw selvedge spirit – here the jean is a luxury object like any other, for an audience that wants casualness without sacrificing status. Jacob Cohën succeeded in bringing jeans into circles accustomed to expensive wool trousers, treating them with the same regard. A bold but successful bet: wearing Jacob Cohën signals a certain sophistication, even in denim.

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Golden Goose Deluxe Brand

Known for its deliberately worn sneakers sold at premium prices, Golden Goose (an Italian brand) also includes some high-end distressed style jeans in its collections. True to its « luxury casual » aesthetic, GGDB offers, for example, jeans with very marked effects: clean rips sewn with lace, paint splashes, or leather patches. The basic quality is nevertheless serious, with Italian or Japanese denims and artisanal manufacturing in Italy.

A Golden Goose jean plays on the contrast between the precious (it costs ~€500) and the apparent decay. For example, their John jean might feature extreme wear, but every frayed thread is secured so as not to compromise durability. They also offer more understated models in raw selvedge, but customers mainly come seeking the strong, exclusive piece. Golden Goose positions itself firmly in fashion: these jeans are seen in fashion shows, worn with glittery western boots or designer jackets. The brand surfs the « new grunge » trend by making it haute couture. Very sparsely distributed, these jeans target fashionistas who already have everything and want a denim piece that is both luxury and rebellious. While most authentic denim enthusiasts will look elsewhere, Golden Goose reminds us that at the other end of the spectrum, jeans also feature on runways and in the wardrobes of the fashion elite in extravagant guises. One facet among many of this decidedly chameleon-like garment.

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Hellequino

In the landscape of high-end European denim, Hellequino stands out by blending minimalist design with ultra-limited Italian manufacturing. Founded around 2018, this young brand based in Carpi (province of Modena) immediately positioned itself in very high-end artisanal denim. Hellequino draws inspiration from vintage work uniforms and military style, which it refines to the maximum. The Hellequino jean is thus often a raw selvedge Made in Italy jean with a loose-straight cut reminiscent of old work trousers, but without multiple pockets or superfluous details. What is striking is the quality of materials: the brand uses, for example, a 13oz selvedge fabric from Berto (a renowned Italian weaver) which it pairs with organic cotton linings and vegetable-tanned leather labels. Production is very limited – Hellequino speaks of « small batch » – and each piece is numbered. Some jeans feature touches of originality like natural indigo dye or corozo buttons (vegetable ivory). In an article, founder Gabriele mentioned the idea of offering high-quality, traceable, and durable workwear. The price is around €300, reflecting this meticulous work. Hellequino is somewhat the denim equivalent of a small, confidential couture house. Wearing one of their jeans means supporting European craftsmanship and distinguishing oneself from the ubiquitous mass-produced jeans. Little known to the general public, their products are starting to be prized within the circle of fine workwear enthusiasts. A brand to watch, proving that the Italian tradition of quality can also be expressed in jeans, well beyond the industrial world.