Do you really know what you’re wearing on your wrist when you sport a vintage Tudor? Much more than just a simple « little sister » to Rolex…
When discussing collectible watches, a_search_result glances naturally turn to certain prestigious brands whose names no one dares to utter for fear of driving prices 경쟁자 up further. But in the shadow of the big names, one watchmaking house has quietly written a fascinating chapter in horological history: Tudor.
What makes vintage Tudor watches from the 60s-70s so extraordinary is not just their Rolex manufacturing quality (yes, same crown, same Oyster case), but their stylistic audacity that the parent company would never have dared. While Rolex Daytonas displayed a strict, monochromatic look, Tudor « Monte Carlo » chronographs exploded with color, their dials evoking roulette tables. While classic Submariners adhered to an immutable code, Tudor « Snowflakes » revolutionized underwater legibility with their snowflake-shaped hands.
These characterful timepieces, once overshadowed by their prestigious cousins, now fetch staggering sums at auction – some « Monte Carlo » models exceeding €20,000, and the rare Submariners 가격 that equipped the French Marine Nationale trading золотой at gold prices.
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1. Historical Context: Why These Tudor Models Were Revolutionary
The Tudor brand was founded in 1926 and developed by Hans Wilsdorf (the founder of Rolex) with the idea of offering robust watches as reliable as Rolexes, but at a more accessible price. Throughout the 1950s to 1970s, Tudor would gradually emancipate itself from its parent company’s style and introduce innovative designs and functionalities that would mark watchmaking history. Understanding the context of the time helps to appreciate why certain vintage Tudor references are so sought after by collectors today.
In the 1960s, while Rolex adhered to very established aesthetic codes, Tudor took creative risks. In 1969, for example, Tudor unveiled a new Submariner with a dial featuring wide square hour markers and atypical hands shaped like a snowflake (nicknamed « Snowflake ») – a radical change from Rolex’s traditional circles and « Mercedes » hands. This evolution, motivated by better underwater legibility for Navy divers, marked the beginning of Tudor’s own aesthetic language.

The Snowflake asserted Tudor’s independence as a brand of tool watches with a unique design, which at the time was perceived as revolutionary in the world of dive watches. These Tudor Submariners would be adopted by the French Marine Nationale (MN) in the 1970s to equip its divers, highlighting their reliability in extreme conditions.
Explore Tudor Submariners on Catawiki (vintage models and rare editions)
At the same time, Tudor also excelled in the field of chronographs. In 1970, Tudor launched its first Oysterdate chronograph (ref. 7031), nicknamed « Homeplate » for its pentagonal hour markers. The following year, in 1971, the second generation of Tudor chronographs brought noteworthy technical improvements as well as a bold design inspired by casino games. These models, quickly dubbed « Monte Carlo » by collectors due to their colorful dials evoking a roulette wheel, featured vibrant color combinations (gray, blue, orange) never before seen at Rolex at the time. Where Rolex offered a monochromatic Daytona chronograph without a date, Tudor dared to include a date display at 6 o’clock with a Cyclops lens and flashy colors – a true stylistic risk in 1971. Furthermore, these Tudor chronographs used advanced Valjoux movements (we’ll come back to this) offering better precision. Tudor thus positioned itself as a pioneer of the accessible and high-performance chronograph, at a time when sports watches were experiencing a meteoric rise.
Tudor Monte Carlo chronographs are to be discovered on Catawiki (numerous auction opportunities)
Finally, it should not be forgotten that Tudor also innovated in other complications. As early as 1957, for example, Tudor offered the Advisor model, a wristwatch alarm – a rare functionality shared only with a few Jaeger-LeCoultre references at the time. This Tudor Advisor integrated a caliber with a mechanical alarm housed in a waterproof Rolex-stamped case, and its launch was accompanied by advertisements highlighting its cleverness « to remind you of your appointments ». For only £33 in 1958, the Advisor offered an ingenious alarm in an accessible dress watch, demonstrating Tudor’s spirit of practical innovation (see figure below).
The Tudor Advisor is a rare piece to look for on Catawiki (for connoisseurs)

Thanks to these bold choices, Tudor was able to impose a neo-retro style ahead of its time: tool watches with an original aesthetic (Snowflake, Monte Carlo dials, etc.), equipped with useful complications (date, chronograph, alarm) and Rolex manufacturing quality. For lovers of the sixties and seventies, these Tudor models therefore offered a revolutionary alternative: Rolex know-how without paying the high price. They could thus wear equally high-performance and distinctive diving or motor racing watches on their wrists, signed by Tudor but « Made by Rolex » – as some advertisements of the time in Japan кстати indicated, where Tudor partnered with a motor racing team.

In summary, collectible vintage Tudors were revolutionary in their time because they successfully combined Rolex heritage with bold innovation: waterproof Oyster cases, reliable Swiss movements, but distinctive designs and new complications. Whether for French military divers, Japanese racing drivers, or gentlemen in suits, Tudor offered characterful watches, often ahead of Rolex in certain areas (the first automatic chronograph appeared at Tudor in 1976, versus 1988 at Rolex, for example), all at a more affordable price. It is this original philosophy of the 60s-70s, made of technical creativity and stylistic audacity, that explains why today collectors consider these vintage Tudor models as true horological treasures.
2. Movements & Major Complications: Key Dates and Technical Innovations
If aesthetics distinguished vintage Tudors, their movements and internal complications deserve just as much attention. Tudor indeed built its reputation on the use of proven Swiss calibers (FHF, ETA, Valjoux) that it knew how to improve or adapt to the needs of robustness, while introducing useful functions. Let’s review the major developments in terms of movements and complications for our flagship references:
- Base Calibers (1950s-60s): Tudors from these decades house mechanical movements from reputable Swiss suppliers, chosen for their reliability. For example, many Oyster Princes from the 1960s are powered by ETA 24xx (or FE) automatic calibers with 25 jewels, known as « Tudor Auto-Prince. » This choice allowed Tudor to ensure excellent precision at a lower cost, while offering automatic winding and sometimes a date (Oysterdate models). A notable caliber is the ETA 2484 (automatic with date) found in Tudor Prince Date-Day or Ranger models from 1967. In terms of precision, these movements generally beat at 18,000 vibrations/hour in the 60s (i.e., 5 beats/sec), which was standard before the era of high frequencies.
- The Alarm Function (1957): Tudor introduced the modified FE 120 caliber (mechanical alarm) in the Tudor Advisor. This complication adds a barrel and a striking hammer, allowing a sound alarm to be programmed. The Advisor (ref. 7926) thus became one of the rare alarm wristwatches of the time, alongside the Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox. It foreshadowed Tudor’s focus on practical complications.
- Dive Watches (1960s-70s): The first Tudor Submariners (ref. 7928 or 7016) borrowed the ETA 390 automatic caliber and later the ETA 2776 (version with hacking seconds). In 1969, the switch to ETA movements with central seconds and date allowed Tudor to add a date function to the Submariner ref. 7021. Subsequently, the famous Snowflake no-date 9401/0 model launched in 1976 was equipped with the ETA 2776 caliber with hacking seconds (17 jewels), while its Date version 9411/0 received the ETA 2784 caliber (21 jewels, with date). The addition of the hacking (stop-seconds) device was particularly appreciated in a military context, as it allowed divers to precisely synchronize their watches – a crucial feature on missions. Moreover, these movements运行 operating at 21,600 vibrations/hour offered better precision than previous generations. Regarding diving complications, Tudor Submariners naturally adopted the unidirectional rotating bezel graduated to 60 minutes (from the 60s) for calculating dive times, and benefited from water resistance guaranteed to 200m (thanks to the Oyster case and the Rolex Twinlock screw-down crown). In short, technically very accomplished dive tool watches, reliable and easy to maintain (thanks to common ETA calibers).




- Manual Chronographs (1970-1971): The first Tudor Oysterdate chronograph of 1970 (ref. 7031/0) houses a manual Valjoux 7734 caliber. This cam-actuated chronograph movement, 17 jewels, beats at 18,000 A/h and offers 45 minutes of timing with a date function – it is, in fact, the same « engine » as many affordable Swiss chronographs of the late 60s. However, as early as 1971, Tudor improved the heart of its chronographs: the second series, known as Monte Carlo, abandoned the 7734 for the Valjoux 234 caliber, still manual winding but with a high frequency (21,600 A/h) and equipped with a much more sophisticated column-wheel mechanism. The result: more precise time measurement and sharper, smoother pusher activation (thanks to the column wheel). This 234 caliber retained the 45-minute totalizer and quick-set date, making it an extremely complete movement for the time. The Tudor chronograph references 7149, 7159, and 7169 produced between 1971 and 1977 all benefited from this major technical improvement. It should be noted that no Rolex chronograph of the era (the Daytona Valjoux 72 caliber) had either a date or a frequency of 21,600 A/h – Tudor therefore offered a genuine technical advantage in this segment.


- Automatic Chronographs (1976): Tudor made a very strong move in 1976 by launching the Oysterdate chronograph known as the « Big Block » (ref. 9430, 9420), this time equipped with an automatic Valjoux 7750 caliber. This tricompax movement (3 sub-dials) beats at 28,800 A/h and, in addition to the chronograph (12h, 30min, small seconds), offers a date display at 3 o’clock – it’s the same one that would later equip some Breitling or Tag Heuer models. Tudor was thus one of the first brands in the world to market an automatic chronograph (only Zenith with the El Primero and Heuer/Breitling with the Chronomatic had done so in 1969, but Rolex would only follow suit in 1988 with the Daytona Zenith). This 1976 Tudor « Big Block » is revolutionary: it combines the convenience of automatic winding with the robustness of the 7750, in a thick Oyster case (hence its nickname Big Block). It marks a key date where Tudor outpaced Rolex in chronograph modernity. From then on, Tudor would continuously improve its chronographs (ref. 79180 at the end of the 80s with sapphire crystal, etc.), while the vintage manual Monte Carlo models gained collector’s appeal.
- Other Complications: Although Tudor primarily focused on essential functions (time, date, chronograph, alarm), the appearance in 1969 of Day-Date models (double day+date window, ref. 7017) can be mentioned, which adopted the emblematic complication of the Rolex President in a larger format (39mm). Similarly, some Tudor Prince models from the 70s offered 24-hour indication or power reserve, but these pieces remain rare. The key takeaway is Tudor’s strategy: use proven and accessible calibers, add useful functionalities, and guarantee flawless robustness. This technical approach explains why even today, a vintage Tudor Submarine or Chrono can be worn daily without reliability concerns, provided it is well-maintained.
In summary, collectible vintage Tudor watches combine reliable Swiss movements (ETA, Valjoux) with notable innovations for their time: the introduction of hacking seconds in military Submariners, early adoption of the automatic chronograph, the presence of a date on chronographs before Rolex, or even the democratization of an alarm complication in the Advisor. This solid mechanical base, perhaps less prestigious than Rolex’s in-house calibers of the era, proved to be an asset: it allowed many vintage Tudors to endure through the decades while maintaining easy servicing and respectable performance. Today’s collector therefore finds value – a beautiful vintage mechanism价格 that is simple to overhaul, serving a watch ইতিহাস steeped in history.
3. Essential References: Three Legendary Tudor Models
Let’s now move on to a detailed presentation of three flagship references of vintage Tudor. Each embodies an emblematic aspect of the brand: the military dive tool watch, the chronograph with an exotic dial, and the elegant classic of the sixties. We will describe their technical characteristics, their context, and what makes them interesting for collectors. A synthetic comparative table will then summarize the key information.
3.1 Tudor Submariner « Snowflake » ref. 9401/0 (1976)
When discussing collectible Tudor dive watches, the nickname « Snowflake » inevitably comes up. It refers to Tudor Submariners equipped with hands with a square tip evoking a snowflake and thick square hour markers. The reference 9401/0 is one of the most prized Snowflake models. Launched around 1976, it represents the culmination of the second generation of Tudor Submariners that began in 1969.
General Description: The 9401/0 is a « no date » Submariner (no date window, unlike its sibling 9411/0 Date). It sports a matte black or navy blue dial with the famous square painted tritium-filled hour markers. The minute hand, called « snowflake » (in the shape of an enlarged rhombus), has become iconic – designed to increase the luminescent surface area and immediately differentiate the hour hand from the minute hand underwater. The Tudor logo at 12 o’clock is the shield (adopted instead of the rose from the late 60s), printed here in white. The dial reads « Tudor Oyster Prince » and « Submariner 200m=660ft ». The 39-40mm diameter steel case is identical in shape to the Rolex Subs of the era, manufactured by Rolex (Oyster mid-case with crown guard shoulders, Rolex Twinlock). The screw-down crown, incidentally, bears the Rolex coronet. The unidirectional rotating notched bezel is also steel, with a blue or black aluminum insert graduated to 60 minutes (triangle at 12 o’clock with a luminescent pearl). The screw-down case back is engraved конкуре́нт on the inside « Montres Tudor SA » and has a simple polished smooth back on the outside (some examples intended for the Navy may bear specific markings such as M.N.77 etc. for Marine Nationale + year). The watch was delivered on a Rolex Oyster bracelet reference 9315 with riveted then folded links, with a Rolex-signed clasp. The whole ensemble is visually very close to a Rolex Submariner 5513/5514 of the same period, with the difference being the Snowflake dial unique to Tudor.

Movement: Inside the 9401 beats the ETA 2776 caliber (automatic, 25 jewels, 21,600 vph) equipped with a hacking seconds feature. Tudor then called it the « Tudor 2776 caliber » or « Auto-Prince, » as it was signed by Tudor. This movement with central hour-minute-seconds and a dummy date (not used here) offers ~40h of power reserve. It is renowned for its robustness and ease of servicing. On the 9401 version, the absence of a date means that the intermediate crown position is solely for the hacking seconds. Adjustment is made via the screw-down crown once unscrewed (positions: winding, hacking seconds/setting). It should be noted that many military 9401s had their movements replaced or overhauled by the army, but an intact civilian example will have its original numbered caliber.
Peculiarities and History: The Snowflake 9401/0 was notably supplied to the French Marine Nationale in the late 1970s. These military examples, called « MN » followed by the year engraved on the case back (e.g., M.N.80 for 1980), are extremely sought after.

Look for a Tudor Submariner Snowflake Marine Nationale on Catawiki (exceptional pieces)
The blue 9401 is famous for having been used by French mine clearance divers, as it was very legible and reliable. In collections, blue and black dials are distinguished. Blues often command a premium because the color can lighten beautifully over time (ghost bezel effect and bluish tropical dial). There are two types of dials: Snowflake until 1980-83, then Tudor reverted to Mercedes hands and triangular hour markers on the last 9401 examples (known as « Transitional »). Purist collectors therefore seek out the true Snowflake (1969-1983). The 9401 is the last Tudor no-date Submariner produced with the vintage look (it will be followed in 1984 by the 76100 Lollipop with round hour markers). This makes it a pivotal piece. In summary, the Tudor Submariner 9401/0 Snowflake embodies the tool watch par excellence: inimitable aesthetics, military pedigree, proven performance. It is both a piece of history (a symbol of Tudor’s emancipation from Rolex) and a very wearable watch on a daily basis thanks to its reliability. On the market, examples with original, unrestored dials and even patina are traded 가격 at high prices (see Prices section).

3.2 Tudor Chronograph Oysterdate « Monte Carlo » ref. 7169/0 (1971)
Second essential piece: the Tudor Oysterdate Chronograph ref. 7169/0, nicknamed « Monte Carlo. » While several vintage Tudor Chrono variants exist, the 7169 stands out with its 12-hour rotating bezel and its casino-accented dial, earning it this evocative moniker among collectors.
Context and Positioning: Introduced in 1971, ref. 7169 is part of the « 7000/0 second generation » series launched that year. Tudor improved its initial chronograph formula (ref. 7031/7032 from 1970) by notably introducing the new Valjoux 234 caliber (more precise, cf. movements section) and diversifying dial and bezel designs. The 7169/0 is particularly interesting as it is the derivative version of the uncommercialized 7033/0 prototype: it’s a chronograph with a 12-hour graduated rotating bezel, allowing for an additional second time zone function or longer duration measurement. In other words, with the 7169, Tudor offers a chronograph that can also serve as a rudimentary GMT – a rare functionality combined with a chronograph. Production of ref. 7169 spanned from 1971 to approximately 1977, with two main dial color variations: gray/blue and gray/black, both highlighted with orange accents.
Design and Aesthetics: The case of the 7169/0 is steel, 40mm in diameter, and thick (~14mm) due to the chronograph movement. It retains the Oyster case middle with crown guards. The screw-down crown and the two chronograph pushers (not screw-down on this model) are Rolex-signed (crown coronet). The major external feature is the 12-hour bidirectional rotating bezel, of the « 12-hour » type (numbers 1 to 11 and a triangle). On the blue version, for example, the bezel is blue anodized aluminum with white numerals. This allows tracking a second time zone or measuring an interval up to 12 hours. Dial: the 7169 adopts the famous exotic dial known as Monte Carlo. It is generally light gray, with two sub-dials (at 3 and 9 o’clock) in a contrasting color (navy blue or black, depending on the version) and a peripheral azure seconds track with orange and blue accents. The visual effect is reminiscent of a casino roulette wheel, hence the nickname. The hour markers are painted, baton-shaped, white with tritium centers, except for an orange triangle at 12 o’clock. The chronograph seconds hand is bright orange, as is the minute hand on some versions. At 6 o’clock, there is a date window with a Cyclops lens on the acrylic crystal (Rolex date). « Tudor Oysterdate » is written below 12 o’clock, and « Rotor Self-Winding » above the 6 o’clock sub-dial, even though the movement is actually manual (Tudor reused the dial mentioning Oysterdate rotor for economy, an amusing detail). This all results in a very information-packed dial, but extremely charismatic for fans of 70s style. The original bracelet is a folded Oyster 7836 with 382 endlinks, again supplied by Rolex.
Discover the Tudor Monte Carlo on Catawiki (exciting auctions and unique finds)
Explore Tudor Monte Carlo 7169/0 on Catawiki (iconic design)
Don’t miss the Tudor Monte Carlo chronographs on Catawiki (collector’s items)

Mechanics: The ref. 7169/0 is powered by the Valjoux 234 caliber (manual with column wheel). This movement, visible if the case back is removed, features 17 jewels and beats at 21,600 A/h, providing approximately 45 hours of reserve. It drives two registers: at 3 o’clock the 45-minute counter of the chronograph, at 9 o’clock the small continuous seconds. The chronograph is started/stopped via the pusher at 2 o’clock, and reset via the one at 4 o’clock. The date at 6 o’clock jumps instantly at midnight. Note that unlike later Big Block chronographs, there is no permanent central seconds hand – the large hand is only for the chronograph. Winding is done daily via the crown (no rotor). This Valjoux 234 is reputed to be more precise than the previous Valjoux 7734 thanks to its higher frequency. It gives the watch remarkable reliability if maintained, although its adjustment requires a watchmaker familiar with column-wheel chronographs.

Why is « Monte Carlo » a must-have? Several reasons. First, its incomparable aesthetics make it one of the most easily recognizable vintage chronographs. At a time when Daytona or Speedmaster dials were sober, Tudor dared to use color and visual complexity. Second, it’s a chronograph that integrates a dual time zone (rare on a chronograph, this would return much later on models like the Breitling Chronomat GMT). The 7169 is therefore a true tool for travelers as well as racing drivers. Furthermore, its limited production (only ~6 years) and the discontinuation of manual Tudor chronographs in 1977 mean there are relatively few examples in circulation, boosting its appeal to collectors. There are some interesting variations: for example, the first series of 7169 has the word « Tudor » alone at 12 o’clock (known as a Solo Dial), followed by the shield logo + Tudor. Additionally, the black/gray versions (sometimes nicknamed « Joker ») seem slightly less common than the blue/gray ones.

Collectors primarily seek out dials in good, unoxidized condition, with the original paint intact – which can be difficult as these dials have sometimes aged (cracking, fallen tritium). In short, the Monte Carlo 7169 offers an unbridled and endearing personality, an embodiment of the 70s, and it is the accessible counterpart to vintage Rolex Daytonas, the latter being unaffordable today.

Tudor Monte Carlo ref. 7169 and others are available on Catawiki (great opportunities)
Ultimately, the Tudor « Monte Carlo » 7169 is a must-have for any vintage chronograph collector. It marries Tudor’s sporting heritage (racing, rallies) and watchmaking ingenuity. Its pop colors and seventies aura make it a centerpiece of any collection dedicated to vintage chronographs.
3.3 Tudor Oyster Prince 1960s (example: Oysterdate « Ranger » ref. 7966/0, ~1967)
The third essential reference we will discuss is not a specific watch but rather a type of model: the Tudor Oyster Prince of the 1960s. This designation includes the brand’s classic watches, often three-hand models with or without a date, which were the alter ego of the Rolex Oyster Perpetual or Datejust, in an economical version.


Among them, one stands out in the eyes of collectors: the famous Tudor Ranger from the late sixties, highly sought after for its Explorer look. Let’s take as an illustration the Tudor Oyster Prince Oysterdate ref. 7966/0 around 1967, later nicknamed « Ranger » due to its particular dial.

Find your vintage Tudor Ranger on Catawiki
Style and Features: Most Tudor Oyster Princes from the 60s come in a 34mm diameter steel Oyster case (standard men’s size at the time). Reference 7966/0 is one of them: round steel case, smooth or sometimes finely fluted bezel (engine-turned on some examples), monobloc mid-case signed Rolex (screw-down crown with coronet, Rolex screw-down case back). The Ranger version’s dial is matte black with Arabic numerals at 12, 3, 6, 9 and luminescent baton hour markers at the other hours – an arrangement very reminiscent of the Rolex Explorer 1016 dial. The Tudor logo is still the small golden rose at 12 o’clock, on some later examples a silver rose. The inscription « Tudor Oyster Prince » appears below the rose, and the mention « Ranger » appears around 6 o’clock on the relevant models. Many of these Oyster Princes have a date window at 3 o’clock with a magnifier (then called Oysterdate). The hands on the early series are dauphine style with tritium, then on the Ranger, there is a seconds hand with an arrow tip and a large hour hand called a « shovel hand » (shaped like a shovel) which is distinctive. The ensemble offers excellent legibility and a sober military style. Originally, these watches were delivered on a 19mm folded Oyster bracelet signed Rolex or on leather.
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Tudor Oyster Prince Rangers are to be discovered on Catawiki (timeless classics)
Your next vintage Tudor Ranger could be on Catawiki (auctions and opportunities)

Discover classic Tudor Oyster Princes on Catawiki (60s elegance)

Movement: Inside the ref. 7966/0 beats an automatic ETA 2484 caliber (or Tudor 2484 caliber) with a date display. This 25-jewel movement runs at 18,000 A/h and features a semi-quickset date mechanism. It is known for its robustness and equips many Tudors from the period. Some earlier Oyster Princes (e.g., ref. 7934 without date) used the ETA 2461 caliber (19 jewels). Overall, these calibers provide honorable precision (a few seconds per day) and efficient bidirectional winding thanks to the « Rotor Self-Winding » rotor often indicated on the dial. The simplicity of these movements (hour, minute, second, date) contributed to making Oyster Princes very reliable everyday watches for decades.
Why it’s a must-have: The Tudor Oyster Princes of the 60s represent the genesis of Tudor as a brand of quality classic watches. These are the models that allowed Tudor to become known to the general public, by offering Rolex aesthetics and quality at a more affordable price. At the time, an Oyster Prince cost about half as much as a Rolex Datejust, for very similar performance. From the current collector’s point of view, they offer a discreet vintage charm: modest diameters, elegance of the Rose logo dials (Tudor emblem abandoned in 1969), and often beautiful patinas on silver or black dials.
The Ranger version is particularly sought after because it is relatively rare and subject to caution (many fakes or spurious assemblies exist, with the word « Ranger » sometimes added to standard Oysterdate dials). An authentic Tudor Ranger from the late 60s sells today for a premium price, often approaching the price of an equivalent Rolex Explorer, which speaks volumes about its value! More generally, any well-preserved Oyster Prince, with its original parts (crown, bracelet, unrepainted dial) constitutes a charming collector’s item. Other cult references can be cited: the Tudor Advisor 7926 (mentioned earlier, with its modified AS 1475 alarm caliber), the Tudor Prince Date+Day 7017 (equivalent to the Rolex Day-Date, in 37.5mm, released in 1969), or even the Tudor 7809 from the 50s (first Oyster Prince, FEF 390 caliber). Each has its own story and place in Tudor’s evolution.

Don’t miss a vintage Tudor Advisor on Catawiki (rare alarm complication)
In short, the Oyster Princes of the sixties symbolize Tudor’s watchmaking credibility: elegant, precise watches, sharing 90% of components with Rolex, worn by an entire generation (engineers, teachers, military personnel…) for whom Rolex was an unattainable dream but Tudor a proud and lasting reality. The fact that many of these watches are still found in good working order today attests to their manufacturing quality.
After this overview, here is a summary table of the three Tudor references discussed, to compare their key specifications:
Model (Reference) | Period | Movement | Diameter | Complications | Peculiarities |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Tudor Submariner « Snowflake » (ref. 9401/0) | 1969-1983 (ex. 1976) | Cal. ETA 2776 (Auto, 21,600 A/h, hacking seconds) | 39-40 mm | Divers: 60min Bezel Waterproof 200 m | Snowflake dial (square tritium hour markers & hands) Blue or black versions Rolex case & crown |
Tudor Chrono « Monte Carlo » (ref. 7169/0) | 1971-1977 | Cal. Valjoux 234 (Manual, 21,600 A/h, column wheel) | 40 mm | Chronograph 45 min Date at 6 o’clock 12h Bezel (2nd time zone) | « Roulette » dial gray/orange with 2 counters Rotating bezel graduated 12 hours Produced in 2 main colors (blue or black) |
Tudor Oyster Prince (ref. 7966/0 « Ranger ») | 1960s (ex. 1967) | Cal. ETA 2484 (Auto, 18,000 A/h) | 34 mm | Hour, minute, second Date (depending on model) | Explorer style dial (3-6-9-12 numerals) Tudor Rose logo (until 1969) Rolex 19mm Oyster bracelet |
4. Price Evolution in 2025 (EUR & USD): The Vintage Tudor Boom
In recent years, the value of collectible vintage Tudor watches has seen a spectacular increase, driven by the general enthusiasm for vintage watches and Tudor’s contemporary success (which revalues its heritage). Long relegated to the role of « second fiddle » compared to vintage Rolexes, older Tudors are seeing their prices increasingly approach those of some Rolexes, particularly for the rarest models or those in excellent condition. Here is an update on price trends in 2025, with updated market estimates (average values at the beginning of 2025, in euros € and dollars $).
- Tudor Submariner Snowflake (ref. 9401/0 & 9411/0): During the 2010s, it was possible to find Snowflakes in good condition for around €3,000 – €4,000. Those days are over. In 2025, Snowflakes commonly reach prices 경쟁자 around €8,000 to €12,000 depending on configuration and condition, which is approximately $8,500 to $13,000 at the current exchange rate. For example, a no-date 94010 example with an original black dial and its period Oyster bracelet was trading for around $9,300 (≈ €8,500) at auctions in late 2024. Blue versions often go for the top of the range (€12k), especially if the patina is sought after. Marine Nationale pieces with military markings, highly prized, can shatter these figures: one of them (M.N.80 with full history) recently appeared on the specialized market for nearly $35,000. We are therefore seeing an appreciation of x2 to x3 in ten years for Snowflakes. This upward trend seems to be continuing due to the scarcity of unaltered examples (never retouched tritium dials, etc.). For comparison, a Rolex Submariner 5513 from the same period now exceeds €15,000, so Tudors are still below, but the gap is narrowing.
The Tudor Submariner Snowflake is an icon to be found on Catawiki (many rare models)
Discover Tudor Submariner Snowflake 9411/0 (with date) on Catawiki
- Tudor Oysterdate Chrono « Monte Carlo » (ref. 7169/0 and sisters): Vintage Tudor chronographs have literally exploded in value over the past 5-6 years. Around 2010, a Monte Carlo could be traded for around $7,000 – $8,000. In 2025, it’s difficult to find one in good condition for less than €15,000 (≈ $16,000). Most are more likely to be around €18,000 – €22,000 ($19k – $24k). According to market indices, the median price for Monte Carlo 7169 sales was around $18,600 (≈ €17,000) at the end of 2024. With original box and papers, some examples reach $25,000 (€23k). Again, this is an increase of +100% in a few years. In June 2018, for example, a Monte Carlo sold for ~$16,200 at auction; today, this amount is more in line with a piece with flaws. The 7031/0 « Homeplate » variants (first generation, without the 12h bezel) are even more expensive, sometimes exceeding €30,000. It should be noted that these levels remain below those of vintage Rolex Daytonas (which flirt with $100k), which still makes Tudor chronographs a financially attractive choice. But recent developments show that the gap continues to narrow.
The Tudor Monte Carlo is a collector’s item to be snapped up on Catawiki (rising value)
Explore rare Tudor Chronograph « Homeplate » on Catawiki (first generation)
- Tudor Oyster Prince / classic 60s models: In this segment, prices vary enormously depending on the exact model. « Standard » Oyster Princes (without rare features) remain relatively affordable compared to sports models. For example, one can find a 1965 Tudor Oysterdate with a champagne dial for around €1,500 – €2,000 ($1,600 – $2,100). However, Ranger versions with Explorer dials sell for much more. An authentic late 60s Tudor Ranger is estimated at around €7,000 to €9,000 ($7k – $10k) in 2025, due to high demand and low supply (many examples on the market are assemblages or redials). A concrete example: a 1967 Tudor Prince Oysterdate « Ranger » was estimated between $3,538 and $4,953 at auction (already ~€4,000) but lots are often passed and resold for much more afterwards. Another classic watch: the Tudor Advisor (alarm), once shunned, is now worth around €4,000 ($4,300) if complete. Generally, all vintage Tudors have seen their prices climb by at least +50% over the last 5 years. The modern re-release of some models has also created a halo effect: for example, the release of a contemporary Tudor Ranger in 2022 sparked renewed interest in its vintage namesake, driving up its value.
In summary, the price evolution at the beginning of 2025 confirms that vintage Tudors are no longer cheap alternatives. They are asserting themselves as collectibles in their own right, with high valuations and liquidity on the second-hand market. The watches presented in this article – Snowflake, Monte Carlo, 60s Oyster Prince – are trading at prices that may surprise those who remember that 15 years ago these pieces could still be found for a few thousand euros. This increase reflects the belated recognition of Tudor’s historical and aesthetic value. However, not everything has uniformly skyrocketed: Tudor Submariners from the 80s-90s, for example, remain accessible (often €3k-€5k for a late 80s 79090), as do some vintage women’s Princess or Glamour models. But for the iconic models discussed, a substantial budget is now required – which, it should be emphasized, remains about 3 to 5 times lower than the equivalent vintage Rolex. This relative discount fuels the continued interest of discerning collectors, who see vintage Tudor as an investment with further growth potential.
5. Vintage Tudor Buying Tips: Checklist and Useful Addresses
Acquiring a collectible vintage Tudor can be a real pleasure… provided you take a few precautions. Here is a checklist of tips and points to watch out for before buying, as well as guidance on where to look for the watch of your dreams:
- Authentication & Original Condition: Scrutinize the authenticity of each component. Vintage Tudors share parts with Rolex, so it’s crucial that the engraved numbers match. Between the lugs, you should find the model reference and serial number, consistent with known Tudor archives for the supposed year. For example, a 1977 Tudor Snowflake will have a serial number ~xxxxxxx and a case back stamped « Montres Tudor S.A. Geneva » inside. The presence of the mention « Original Oyster Case by Rolex » on the outer (or inner, depending on the model) case back and a Rolex-signed crown is normal for most vintage Tudors – so beware, their absence may indicate an unofficial replacement case. Ensure the dial is original (crisp printed logos, correct font, old tritium possibly marked « T »). Repainted (redial) or fake dials exist, especially for Tudor Rangers and some Submariners: it’s better to compare with reference photos from reliable sources (specialized forums, Tudorcollector, etc.). Likewise, the hands must match the model (a Snowflake without Snowflake hands is suspect, a Ranger must have its specific shovel hands). Don’t hesitate to ask for movement photos: a Tudor-signed caliber with the correct caliber number is essential. If it’s a chronograph, the Valjoux movement must have the blued column wheel (on Monte Carlos) or the Tudor-engraved rotor (on Big Block automatics). If in doubt, have it authenticated by an expert or via online communities before purchasing.
- Overall Condition and Restoration: Prioritize watches in good original condition. A bit of patina is normal (and even desirable), but beware of pieces that are « too new to be true »: a perfectly white tritium dial from the 70s without any patina could be a service dial (replaced during a service) or a recent fake with luminova. Similarly, overly polished cases may have lost volume: ensure the lugs are still thick and even, with any chamfers possibly present. Check that the bezel is original (e.g., a Monte Carlo 12h bezel is very specific and difficult to find if missing). A harmoniously aged bezel insert is a plus. Regarding bracelets, many vintage Tudors have lost their original Rolex bracelet over time – this isn’t a dealbreaker (a nice leather or NATO strap can be fitted), but if the period Rolex Oyster bracelet is present, it’s a value bonus. Inspect its condition (stretched links or not, stamped reference). Finally, inquire about the functionality: has the watch been recently serviced? Does it keep time? Do the complications (date, chronograph, alarm) work correctly? A service by a specialized watchmaker can cost between €300 and €600, to be factored into your budget if the watch hasn’t been maintained.
- Common Pitfalls: In the vintage Tudor market, some pitfalls are known. Counterfeits or « Frankenwatches »: some watches are assembled from parts of various origins (e.g., a redone dial with the word « Ranger » added to a mundane Tudor Oysterdate, or a Submariner case with a generic movement). These are watches with no collector value that should be avoided at all costs. False Navy inscriptions: given the value of Tudor MNs, beware of fake M.N. engravings applied to a case back to inflate the price. Demand traceability (military papers, Tudor archive extract if possible, etc.). Repainted dials: a redial will significantly decrease the value; often recognizable by a somewhat crude printing or lack of tritium ( « Swiss » logo without « T » when it should be « T Swiss T » for example). Over-polished parts: excessive polishing causes loss of sharp case edges and can erase markings – this is irreversible and reduces collector interest. Prefer a watch with its period dings and micro-scratches rather than a « refurbished » one that destroys the vintage charm.
- Where to Buy? To find an authentic vintage Tudor, several channels exist: auction houses (Christie’s, Sotheby’s, Phillips) sometimes offer rare Tudors – authenticity security but often high prices with commissions. Specialized dealers and vintage galleries: e.g., in Europe Bulang & Sons, Oliver and Clarke, Hodinkee Shop, European Watch Co, Menta Watches, etc., which select and service vintage pieces (with a few months’ warranty). In France, boutiques like Joseph Bonnie (Paris) or La Capsule – Bucherer Vintage sometimes offer certified vintage Tudors. Online platforms: Chrono24 provides access to a wide selection, but be cautious and favor « Trusted » and well-rated sellers; don’t hesitate to ask questions and request additional photos. Collector forums (Timezone, Watchuseek, VRM, Tudor-dedicated Facebook groups) are also a goldmine: you can find serious classifieds from well-known enthusiasts in the community – the advantage is transparency (watch history often documented), and sometimes slightly gentler prices without intermediaries. However, this requires knowing the seller well or using a secure escrow service. Watch fairs and shows (e.g., Paris Watch Fair, Munich Watch Fair) can allow you to see the watch physically and negotiate with dealers.
- Documents and Accessories: Most vintage Tudors on the market are sold without original box or papers – these were often lost. If, сча́стливо by good fortune, the set is complete (period Tudor box, certificate with serial number, tags), it’s a big plus that justifies a surcharge. Ensure the numbers on the papers match the watch. Sometimes, the period manual or even extra bracelet links can be found – all these small « extras » add value and historical interest. Don’t overlook the importance of a Tudor archive extract (a service Tudor is starting to offer for some older models) which can attest to delivery to a navy or other entity.
By following these tips, you will avoid disappointments and be able to fully enjoy your acquisition. Don’t hesitate to share your find with the communities: vintage Tudor enthusiasts are generally very welcoming and offer good advice for the maintenance and preservation of these pieces. Remember that a vintage watch, especially from this era, remains fragile in certain aspects (water resistance rarely guaranteed – don’t dive with it without having it checked! –, shocks to be avoided on manual-wind watches, etc.). By wearing it carefully and having it serviced every 5-10 years by a competent watchmaker, your vintage Tudor can accompany you for decades to come.
Conclusion
Collectible vintage Tudor watches have come a long way in the hearts of enthusiasts. Once seen as « sub-Rolexes, » they are now adored for what they are: characterful timepieces, witnesses to bold innovations, and endowed with a watchmaking soul all their own. From the emblematic Snowflake dial guaranteeing extreme legibility, to the flamboyant colors of the Monte Carlo chronographs, via the proud Tudor rose of the sixties classics, each tells a unique story – that of a brand that knew how to combine Rolex’s technical excellence with an unconventional and functional style.
In 2025, collecting a vintage Tudor means treating yourself to a piece of history at a still reasonable price compared to the untouchable Rolexes. It also means joining a community of enthusiasts who appreciate the subtlety of these watches: their small differences, their evolutions, their possible military markings, their rare period documents. Finally, it means taking part in Tudor’s current renaissance, which draws heavily on these heritage models (Black Bay, Heritage Chrono, etc.) and thus drives up the value of the original pieces.
Whether you are drawn to the robustness of a Submariner that served in the Navy, the « Gentlemen Diver » look of a Monte Carlo chronograph on your wrist on weekends, or the discreet charm of a Tudor Advisor awakening your nostalgia, there is a vintage Tudor for you. Armed with the buying tips and knowledge shared in this article, you can confidently consider taking the plunge. Examine, compare, and above all, enjoy yourself: these watches, designed for the active men and women of yesterday, are just waiting to come back to life on the wrists of new enthusiasts today. As a 1960 Tudor advertisement proudly proclaimed: « Tudor – designed by Rolex, for those who dare to do more. » More than half a century later, let us, in turn, dare to bring these icons of the past back to life.
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