Long before Rolex became the benchmark, Longines was already equipping the greatest explorers of the 20th century. From Lindbergh to polar expeditions, these little-known timepieces wrote the history of human adventure. A dive into the fascinating world of watches that changed the world.
Think you know the history of exploration watchmaking? Think again.
While everyone marvels at Submariners and other GMT-Masters, the true pioneers wore Longines on their wrists. Charles Lindbergh. Admiral Byrd. Paul-Émile Victor. All these giants of exploration had chosen the Swiss manufacturer long before the golden crown became a symbol of success.
The irony? These revolutionary watches are now overshadowed by less innovative but more marketed brands.
Because yes, Longines invented the first flyback chronograph in 1936. It created navigation instruments that saved lives at 10,000 meters altitude. It equipped 150 polar expeditions over three decades. A performance few manufacturers can claim.
Yet, how many truly know the story of Lindbergh’s Hour Angle? Or that of the mysterious “Sei Tacche” watches that survived World War II?
These timepieces tell of an era when watchmaking was a survival tool, not a status accessory. A story we will rediscover together, far from the beaten paths of modern marketing.
Prepare to change your perspective on exploration watchmaking.
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1. Historical Context:
Founded in 1832 in Saint-Imier by Auguste Agassiz, Longines established itself from the 19th century onwards through its pioneering spirit. The manufacturer adopted the winged hourglass as its emblem in 1889 (the oldest watchmaking logo still in use) and very early on developed sports timing instruments. In 1924, it timed its first ski race in Chamonix, inaugurating a long legacy in sports timing (alpine skiing, motor sports, etc.). In parallel, Longines distinguished itself as a partner to the great explorers and aviators of the interwar period. Official timekeeper of the International Aeronautical Federation from 1919, the brand supplied watches and onboard chronographs to aviation pioneers.
After timing Charles Lindbergh’s first solo transatlantic flight in 1927, Longines collaborated with the aviator to create the “Hour Angle” watch in 1931. Designed for celestial navigation, this iconic piece allowed pilots to calculate their longitude in flight. It was inspired by an invention of Captain P.V.H. Weems, who as early as 1929 developed a watch with a stoppable second hand (called the Second-Setting Watch) to synchronize the time with radio signals. Longines would produce the Weems watches (40mm, double crown) and then the Lindbergh Hour Angle (47mm), becoming the brand of air navigators. During the 1930s-50s, Longines thus equipped numerous explorers and pilots: Admiral Richard Byrd for his polar flyovers, the Duke of Aosta (Luigi Amedeo) during his 1899 Arctic expedition, aviator Howard Hughes, etc. In 1947, French polar explorer Paul-Émile Victor embarked on a mission to Greenland equipped with 4 Longines chronometers (civil and sidereal time) and 15 steel Longines watches. These reliable instruments would be used on 150 polar expeditions over nearly 30 years. Longines honors this heritage with reissues, such as the Expéditions Polaires Françaises model (2011) paying homage to the watches supplied in 1947.
2. Major Movements and Complications:
Technical innovation is at the heart of Longines’ DNA. In 1913, it presented the 13.33Z caliber, one of the very first wristwatch chronographs in history. In 1936, Longines launched the legendary 13ZN caliber, an integrated flyback chronograph – a world first that allowed pilots to reset the chronograph without stopping it. This 29mm movement at 18,000 vph, equipped with 17 jewels and a Breguet hairspring, is praised for its robustness and mechanical beauty. Produced until the early 1950s, Longines 13ZN chronographs (numerous variants from 34 to 40mm) are now highly prized by collectors for their reliability and technical elegance.
In 1929, Longines, with Weems, created the stop-second watch (Weems Second-Setting), featuring a movable seconds dial for setting to the exact second. This synchronization complication, patented by Weems in 1930, is found on the 1931 Lindbergh watch (rotating bezel coupled with an adjustable central dial). Longines also excelled in high precision: in 1959, it designed the 360 caliber (36,000 vph) which won chronometry competitions. Building on this expertise, Longines introduced the Ultra-Chron movement (caliber 431) in 1967, oscillating at 36,000 vph – one of the very first high-frequency movements to be commercialized. This 17-jewel automatic caliber guaranteed remarkable precision (announced variation of less than one minute per month). Longines housed it in elegant sports watches, including the famous Ultra-Chron Diver of 1968, water-resistant to 200m, with a 41mm cushion case and rotating bezel. With this piece, Longines signed the first high-frequency diving timepiece, demonstrating its mastery of robust complications. Also noteworthy is the innovation of the 30CH caliber (1945, split-seconds chronograph) and Longines’ participation in the Chronomatic automatic chronograph project in 1969 (Lundi 187 caliber). Longines’ technical history is rich, but the 13ZN and Ultra-Chron remain its most emblematic milestones.
3. Key References:
Among the most sought-after vintage Longines watches, four models embody the brand’s spirit of exploration:
Longines Lindbergh Hour Angle (1931)
A true icon of air navigation, this 47.5mm pilot’s watch was designed by Charles Lindbergh after his Atlantic crossing. Based on Weems’ principle, it features a rotating bezel graduated in degrees and a movable central dial for adjusting the time to radio seconds. In conjunction with a sextant and a nautical almanac, it allows for longitude calculation using the “hour angle” method. The aesthetic is unique: large white dial with Roman numerals (hours) and Arabic numerals (minutes of arc), seconds hand with rotating dial, large onion crown for manipulation with gloves. Produced by Longines (cal. 18.69N movement) and distributed via Wittnauer in the USA, the original model is rare. Longines has reissued many historical versions. The Lindbergh Hour Angle embodies the unbreakable link between Longines and aeronautical adventure.
Longines “Sei Tacche” (1930s-40s)
Nickname given by Italian collectors (“six notches”) to Longines watches with a screw-down case back with six notches. These field watch models of ~33 to 35mm feature a sober design, often a black or silver dial with Arabic numerals and a small seconds at 6 o’clock. The steel case is robust and waterproof (an innovative feature at the time), with thin drilled lugs for fixed spring bars. Usually housing the Longines 12.68Z or 10.68N caliber (manual winding, 15 jewels, sometimes stop-seconds), the Sei Tacche served as military watches for various Allied armies (some delivered to the Italian or Czechoslovak army) and as expedition watches thanks to their reliability. Their clean aesthetic – close to the civilian “Calatrava” watches of the era – appeals to enthusiasts. Two notable versions: those with a double-logo dial (retailers like Türler) and those intended for armed forces (luminous dials).
Longines Ultra-Chron Diver (1968)
One of the first diving watches with a high-frequency movement. A 41mm steel cushion case, thick (13.5mm) and water-resistant to 300m, it features a unidirectional bezel with a black/red insert, a black dial with applied rhodium-plated indexes, and a bright red seconds hand. Inside beats the 431 caliber at 36,000 vph, ensuring outstanding precision. Launched during the heyday of diving watches, the Ultra-Chron Diver stands out with its “Ultra-Chron” mention and its red flag logo at 12 o’clock, a testament to its high frequency. Produced in a limited series, it foreshadowed ETA’s developments (Longines would later join the Swatch group). Its design is highly appreciated by vintage collectors: a perfect blend of a toolwatch and sixties watchmaking prowess. Longines reissued this model in 2022. Other notable Ultra-Chron watches from 1968 include more classic dress versions (35-37mm round case), all powered by the same chronometer-grade caliber.
Longines WWW “Dirty Dozen” (1945)
Longines is one of the 12 suppliers of the famous set of British military watches “Dirty Dozen”. Its 1945 WWW (Wrist Watch) reference is characterized by a 38mm steel case with a sandblasted finish, fixed 18mm drilled lugs, a matte black dial with radium Arabic numerals and a small seconds at 6 o’clock, as well as the “Broad Arrow” (government arrow) marking on the dial and case back. The movement is the Longines 12.68Z caliber with 15 jewels, regulated as a chronometer. Approximately 8,000 Longines WWW examples were produced (out of ~150,000 Dirty Dozen watches from all manufacturers combined), making it one of the rarest along with the Grana. This watch embodies the reliable military tool: maximum legibility, robustness (shockproof, anti-magnetic), and interchangeability. Today, collecting all 12 “Dozen” is a collector’s challenge. The Longines is particularly sought after for its slightly larger diameter and the quality of its finishes (thick “step” lugs, often well-preserved dial). It illustrates Longines’ commitment alongside the military during World War II.
Comparative Table of Main Features:
| Model (Year) | Caliber (Type) | Diameter | Main Technical Features |
|---|---|---|---|
| Lindbergh Hour Angle (1931) | 18.69N (manual, 15j) | 47.5 mm | Hour angle (longitude) – Rotating bezel and dial – Designed with C. Lindbergh for air navigation |
| “Sei Tacche” (c. 1937) | 12.68N or 10.68Z (man.) | ~34 mm | Waterproof steel case with 6-notch screw-down back – Small seconds – Military use (dials with or without radium) |
| Ultra-Chron Diver (1968) | 431 (automatic, 36,000 vph) | 41 mm | HF diving watch (5 Hz) – Unidirectional 60-min bezel – Water-resistant 200 m – Date at 3 o’clock – Approx. ±2 s/day precision |
| WWW “Dirty Dozen” (1945) | 12.68Z (manual, 15j) | 38 mm | W.W.W military watch – Luminous black dial – Broad Arrow – Shockproof – British Ministry of Defence order (8,000 Longines examples) |
4. Price Evolution (est. 2025):
The market for vintage Longines “explorer” watches is booming. In 2025, an original Lindbergh Hour Angle from the 1930s, very rare, can reach €20,000 – €50,000 depending on condition and provenance (the 1987 or 90th anniversary reissues trade for around €2,000 – €5,000). Longines “Sei Tacche” watches are experiencing a resurgence of interest: a steel model with an original dial can be worth €3,000 – €6,000, or even more if double-signed (record ~€40,000 for an exceptional Türler example). The 1968 Ultra-Chron Diver, long underestimated, is seeing its prices rise to €4,000 – €8,000 in good condition (expect ~US$5,000 for the new modern reissue). As for the 1945 Longines WWW, it is one of the most expensive of the “Dirty Dozen”: expect €8,000 – €12,000 for a complete authentic example (compared to €2,000 – €5,000 for more common brands like Cyma or Record). Note that prices vary greatly depending on condition (presence of original radium on the dial, matching numbers), accessories (Longines archive extract proving authenticity), and market trends.
5. Buying Advice:
To acquire a collectible vintage Longines with peace of mind, here are a few recommendations:
Authentication:
Verify the correspondence between the movement number and the case; Longines offers an archive extract on request, valuable for confirming the reference and history. Check that the dial is original (redials reduce value). On Lindbergh and Weems models, ensure that the engraved scales (bezel, disc) have not been crudely repainted.
Details to Inspect:
On WWW military models, the Broad Arrow marking and numbers (e.g., “F xxxx” for Longines) must be clearly engraved: any ambiguity may indicate a refinished case. Watches from the 1930s-40s often contained radium (luminous): a uniform brown patina on the indexes and hands is a good sign, while bright green lume indicates a more recent relume. A Geiger counter can help (low radioactivity = original radium). Check for specific hands (e.g., cathedral hands on Longines Dirty Dozen, blued leaf or baton hands on Sei Tacche depending on versions).
Mechanical Condition:
Many of these pieces are 70-90 years old: a full service is often necessary after purchase. Prefer a seller who has had the watch serviced (or lower the price accordingly). The 431 caliber (Ultra-Chron), for example, requires specific high-frequency lubrication; ensure the watchmaker is aware of this.
Mistakes to Avoid:
Do not confuse modern reissues with vintage ones: a recent Lindbergh (reference L2.x…) does not have the same value or charm as an original from 1930. Avoid “frankenstein” watches (mixed parts): e.g., a Sei Tacche case with a non-Longines movement or a redone dial with incorrect typography. Beware of prices that are too low on general platforms, and prefer sellers with a good reputation.
Reliable Sources:
Turn to specialized auction houses (Phillips, Bonhams, etc. for exceptional pieces), recognized vintage dealers (Wind Vintage, Hodinkee Shop, Analog/Shift…), or supervised online auctions (Catawiki, Chrono24 Trusted Checkout). Enthusiast forums (Watchuseek, Forumamontres…) are full of information and sometimes good deals between trusted members. Finally, the Longines Heritage department can confirm the authenticity of a model free of charge via its serial number – a precious asset before investing.
In short, vintage Longines explorer watches offer a unique blend of historical value and watchmaking quality. Whether timing a race in 1924 or guiding a plane to the North Pole, the “brand of explorers” continues to inspire collectors with its rich heritage and legendary timepieces. With good preparation and the advice above, the adventure of acquiring one of these vintage Longines watches will be, for any enthusiast, an experience as exciting as it is rewarding.
Pour bien s'habiller, il faut comprendre le vêtement, mais aussi la marque et sa stratégie.