Did you know that some Jaeger-LeCoultre watches from the 1960s are now worth over €30,000? The Swiss house, nicknamed « the great house of the Vallée de Joux, » has created timepieces that transcend their primary function to become true collector’s items and investments. Discover the models that have marked the history of watchmaking.
Imagine a world where a watch can literally flip over to protect its dial. In 1931, while most watchmakers were content to marginally improve their movements, Jaeger-LeCoultre completely overturned conventions with its Reverso. It wasn’t just a new watch, but a true conceptual revolution. And that was just the beginning.
What truly distinguishes JLC from other manufactures is its ability to innovate while preserving the very essence of traditional watchmaking. The 1950 Memovox perfectly illustrates this philosophy: the first timepiece to integrate a mechanical alarm on the wrist, it proves that one can be both innovative and respectful of traditions.
Contrary to the popular belief that vintage is synonymous with fragility, JLC watches from the 1950s-70s are often more robust than some contemporary productions. Their mechanics, designed to last, continue to operate коммерческих десятилетия спустя, as evidenced by the legendary 1968 Polaris, one of the world’s first diver-alarm watches.
Between reversible cases, exceptional movements, and revolutionary complications, these timepieces tell much more than just the time: they bear witness to an era when watchmaking innovation knew no bounds.
Sommaire
A Look Back at the History of Jaeger-LeCoultre
Historically, the Reverso was created in 1931 at the request of a Swiss industrialist, César de Trey, to « invent a watch capable of sliding, pivoting, and turning over on itself. » This hinged case (an inverted « tank » type) could then present a shock-resistant metal side on the back, protecting the fragile crystal of the dial.
Thanks to its sleek Art Deco design and reliable mechanics, the Reverso quickly transcended sporting boundaries to become a great classic of watchmaking.
Discover the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso on Catawiki (a varied selection and great deals to be had).
Similarly, the original 1950 Memovox (manual caliber 489) introduced the mechanical alarm complication, and six years later, in 1956, its automatic movement (caliber 815) made JLC the first manufacture to offer an automatic alarm on the wrist.
Finally, in 1968, the Polaris was launched as a « Super Compressor » version of the Memovox. It was a world first for a water-resistant dive watch featuring an alarm, equipped with three crowns (a central crown adjusting the graduated inner bezel) and built to withstand underwater environments.
Explore the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris on Catawiki (collector’s items and unique opportunities).
Major Movements and Complications
JLC’s iconic watches are distinguished by often innovative in-house movements. For example, the original Memovox (c.1950, caliber 489) was manual, equipped with two crowns for the alarm independent of the winding. Its automatic successor (caliber 815, 1956) offered a 45-hour power reserve and allowed the alarm to be set via a central disc (indicated by a rotating triangle). This automatic MEMOVOX caliber was the very first automatic winding alarm movement on the market. Similarly, the original Polaris caliber (caliber 825, second half of the 1960s) was a special 3-crown diver’s watch (bottom crown: time setting, top crown: alarm winding, central crown: inner bezel).
The central complications of these watches are therefore the mechanical alarm (Memovox/Polaris), the reversible case (Reverso), and, for some later models, calendars or moon phases. For example, JLC’s Master Grande Réveil (1989) combined an alarm, perpetual calendar, and moon phases – one of the most sophisticated alarms ever produced by the manufacture.
Furthermore, the house has often revisited its classics by adding modern modules (e.g., Reverso Gyrotourbillon 2 in 2008 with a spherical movement, or Memovox Worldtime automatic with simultaneous display of multiple time zones). The watchmaking precision and quality of JLC calibers (manual/automatic winding, fine adjustment, meticulous decorations) have always been a point of honor for the brand.
Essential References
In JLC’s historical catalog, certain references are considered iconic. Here are the main ones:
- Reverso Original 1931 (typical ref. 270.8.x or later): the very first square rectangular steel model inaugurated the reversible case. As an example, the 2011 « Tribute to 1931 » (caliber 822) respected the original dimensions (46×27.5×7.2 mm) and the Art Deco design of the sword hands and dauphine indexes. Since then, numerous variations have been born: DuoFace version (double reversible dial), limited editions (gold and enamel alliance, colored reflections, etc.), guilloché or lacquered dials.
- Reverso vintage variations: besides the Original, let’s mention the old Reverso Classique (e.g., ref. 250.8.xx from the 1960s–80s, steel case, Arabic numerals or lines), or tribute series from 1990-2010 (e.g., « Tribute to 1931 » steel/steel, rose gold case on white or metallic red dial). These models all retain the Reverso’s signatures – three-groove stirrup, sword hands, thin manual movement.
- Memovox 1950s: particularly noteworthy are references E855 (1950, manual movement 489, no date) and E859 (1956, automatic 815, simple date). These models often have a light silver 2-level dial, two crowns (top for the alarm, bottom for the time). A rare model is the Memovox Deep Sea (1959–60), the first dive watch with an alarm, limited production (~950 ex.). The text below shows an example of a classic steel Memovox from the 1960s.
- Polaris 1968: last iteration of the Memovox diver. Ref. E859/825, waterproof « Super Compressor » case with triple case back, mechanically adjustable inner bezel, yellow luminescent trapezoidal indexes. The three crowns (one for the alarm, one for the time, and one for the bezel) give the Polaris its distinctive look. In addition to the steel version, JLC has produced modern « Tribute to Polaris » models (e.g., limited editions in 2008 and 2018). The photo below shows a recent reissue, faithful to the 1968 design.
| Model / Ref. | Year & Movement | Complication | Comments |
|---|---|---|---|
| Reverso 1931 (e.g. 270.8.x) | 1931 (manual, cal. JLC 76/65) | Reversible case | First pivoting case, crystal protection. |
| Reverso Tribute (e.g. 278.8xxx) | 2011+ (cal. 822 automatic) | Time-only, Date on one side (depending on version) | Inspired by the 1931 model, art deco finishes. |
| Memovox E855 | 1950 (manual, cal. 489) | Mechanical alarm | Double crown, no date window. |
| Memovox E859 | 1956 (automatic, cal. 815) | Alarm + Date | First automatic Memovox, small date at 3 o’clock. |
| Memovox Deep Sea 1959 | 1959 (automatic, cal. 825) | Diving + Alarm | First diver-alarm, inner bezel, very rare (lim. 950 ex.). |
| Polaris E859 (1968) | 1968 (automatic, cal. 825) | Diving + Alarm | « Super Compressor » dive watch, 3 crowns, 1714 ex. produced. |
Price Evolution
On the collector’s market, these JLC watches have seen their prices evolve significantly. The Reverso, historically accessible (a few thousand euros for simple 1931 models or those from the 1980s), has seen its prices climb: limited editions or specific complications (e.g., Gyrotourbillon 2) now trade well above €50,000. A platinum Reverso Gyrotourbillon 2 thus reached ~€92,000 at auction (record on Catawiki). « Basic » vintage models (steel, double-sided) are more in the €3–10k range depending on condition, rarity, and movement.
Regarding the classic Memovox, examples from the 1950s-60s in steel can trade for around €4–8k (even €10k for a Deep Sea model in good condition), while yellow gold models from the same era often exceed €8–12k. The 1968 Polaris, rarer, reaches higher levels: Hodinkee notes that a Polaris in good condition trades more in the $15,000 to $30,000 range, which is a similar order of magnitude in euros today.
These trends are corroborated by auction platforms and specialized sales sites: for example, Rare Watches Co. or Catawiki regularly announce several thousand euros for a Vintage Reverso or a classic Memovox in good condition. A collector effect is also observed: pieces with box/official archives (full set) sell for significantly more. As a rough guide for 2025, one can estimate approximately:
- Reverso Vintage (simple steel): €3,000–€8,000 (€10k+ for gold/limited).
- Memovox 1950–60 (steel with date/automatic): €5,000–€10,000.
- Polaris 1968 (steel): €15,000–€30,000.
These ranges can vary greatly depending on the rarity of the dial (old vs. restored indexes), the condition of the case, and the presence of documents.
Buying Tips – Visual Authentication
To acquire these vintage pieces, one must be vigilant. Here is a non-exhaustive visual checklist:
- Dial condition: sought after by collectors, the dial must have the correct markings (logo « LeCoultre » vs « Jaeger-LeCoultre, » « Swiss » or « Swiss Made » depending on the market). On 1930-50 Reversos, old tritium turning cream is expected. Memovoxes must have the alarm triangle correctly centered and crowns signed « JL » (recently redone on reissues).
- Alarm mechanism: check that the « alarm » crown (2 o’clock) remains smooth to pull and to set the inner disc. The alarm should sound clearly (hand test). A seized alarm crown or a weak sound may indicate a broken spring or internal rust.
- Indexes and hands: on Polaris models, the yellow trapezoidal indexes must be intact (no crude repairs). The hands of a classic Memovox are often sword or dauphine, in good coating condition. On Reversos, ensure that the blued steel or glazed hands are not bent.
- Case and movements: the Reverso case should be able to pivot without excessive play. Check for the absence of suspicious solder/patina on the lugs or edges. On Polaris cases, the original water resistance has often disappeared; look for signs of oxidation under the case backs. Always look at the caliber: a good period model bears a signed JLC movement (489, 815, 825…); a non-original or incomplete caliber is a red flag.
- Engravings and numbers: some models have engravings (serial number, reference) visible on the case back or between the lugs. They must be fine and well-aligned (a « shaky » or redone engraving is suspicious). On the Reverso, the location of the reference markings on the back (e.g., « 278.857 ») must correspond to the stated model.
- Authenticity of accessories: on models sold as a « full set, » check that the warranty card corresponds to the caliber and case numbers. However, this checklist focuses on the visual: the absence of paperwork does not necessarily discredit a watch, but it reduces its resale price.
In summary, buying a vintage JLC requires rigor and time: it is often advisable to compare several reference photos (archives and online archives) and, if possible, to consult experts in the watchmaking field. Rising prices call for caution: it is better to favor a reliable « known seller » example rather than an overly tempting offer. With the age and success of these models, maintaining the authenticity of the dial and movement is key to preserving their value.
Pour bien s'habiller, il faut comprendre le vêtement, mais aussi la marque et sa stratégie.