Discover how simple timepieces became legends, forever changing our relationship with watchmaking. From James Bond to Steve McQueen, the secret history of the watches that conquered our screens.
$1.95 million. That’s the price a simple Rolex GMT fetched at auction in 2019. Its secret? It had adorned Marlon Brando’s wrist in Apocalypse Now. Unsettling, isn’t it?
You might think that watches in movies are just ordinary costume props. Think again. Behind every timepiece on screen lies a meticulous strategy. A subtle alchemy between watchmaking technique and cinematic storytelling.
Sean Connery didn’t choose his Submariner acessórios in Dr. No. Steve McQueen didn’t wear just any chronograph in Le Mans. These watches tell a story. They forge legends.
But here’s what will surprise you: some of these watchmaking icons were last-minute choices. Others, intended to remain confidential, revolutionized entire brands. Elvis’s Hamilton Ventura? A set accident that defined an aesthetic for eternity.
How does a simple watch become mythical? Why do some models see their value सूर्योदय after a screen appearance? And above all: how do these timepieces continue to influence our desires today?
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Historical Context: When Cinema Embraced Watches
Watches weren’t always in the spotlight. In the early decades of cinema, they were often just another costume element. However, over time, some directors and actors understood the narrative and symbolic power a timepiece could bring to the screen. As early as the 1950s and 1960s, well-chosen watches began to capture the public’s imagination. For example, in 1961, Elvis Presley wore an avant-garde Hamilton Ventura in the film Blue Hawaii, reflecting the nascent era of electronics and the futuristic style of the time. This presence of such a distinctive model on screen already testified to a desire to anchor a character in their time and social status through their watch, even if this phenomenon was still sporadic.
Hamilton Ventura, the first mass-produced electric watch, with a futuristic style popularized by Elvis Presley in Blue Hawaii – Credit: Wikimedia Commons
It was truly in the 1960s that watches in cinema gained their prestige, largely thanks to the James Bond saga. In 1962, in Dr. No, Sean Connery wore a Rolex Submariner that would become legendary. This choice was not accidental: the Submariner embodied the refinement and ruggedness of the British spy. Through Bond, the watch became a character-defining element, symbolizing his timeless elegance and ability to face any danger. The following years saw more and more producers and directors deliberately integrate watches into their films, either to reinforce the authenticity of an era (an antique military watch in a war film, for example) or with an eye toward nascent product placement. Thus, heroes of adventure films and gentlemen in sophisticated thrillers were each associated with a carefully selected timepiece, adding an extra dimension to the narrative.
The historical context of these iconic watches is therefore twofold. On the one hand, it reflects the evolution of watchmaking itself – from classic post-war mechanical watches to the first electronic watches and the quartz revolution – and on the other hand, it illustrates the evolution of cinema as a vehicle for trends and dreams.
In the 1970s, for example, the rise of technology was reflected on screen by futuristic digital watches on the wrists of science fiction characters or high-tech secret agents. At the turn of the 1980s, a film like Back to the Future featured a modest Casio calculator watch on Marty McFly’s wrist, anchoring the teenage character in his era while winking at the then-fashionable gadgets.
Thus, each period of cinema saw the emergence of its symbolic watches, reflecting the watchmaking technology of the moment and the image that cinema wished to project.
Movements and Complications: From Precision Mechanics to Fictional Gadgets
Behind every iconic movie watch lies a watchmaking heart – its movement – and sometimes advanced functions, called complications, which may have played a role in the plot or simply reinforced the character’s realism. Most watches made famous by the big screen are powered by traditional mechanical movements, either manual or automatic winding. For example, James Bond’s Rolex Submariner is equipped with a high-precision Swiss automatic movement. The same goes for Steve McQueen‘s Heuer Monaco chronograph in Le Mans, which houses the Calibre 11, one of the first automatic chronograph movements in history. These mechanical movements give watches a smooth sweeping second hand and an authentic charm that cinema, eager for realistic details, does not fail to highlight.
Some movie watches also feature interesting watchmaking complications. The most common complication is undoubtedly the chronograph (stopwatch function) on pilot’s watches. The sparkling blue dial of the TAG Heuer Monaco in Le Mans displays two chronograph counters, emphasizing the close link between McQueen’s character and time measurement.
Similarly, the Omega Speedmaster, seen on the wrists of astronauts in films about space exploration (like Apollo 13), has a vital chronograph function اللي recalls its historical role during the Apollo missions. Another complication, the additional time zone (GMT), can be noticed on some movie watches.
The Rolex GMT-Master worn by Marlon Brando in Apocalypse Now is not explicitly used for its GMT function on screen, but its presence reinforces the authenticity of the renegade colonel’s character. Thus, even without being highlighted by the script, complications add a layer of credibility to the cinematic timepiece.
It is important to distinguish these real watchmaking feats from purely cinematic fantasy. Indeed, some films – notably the James Bond saga – have equipped their hero’s watches with far-fetched gadgets that go far beyond traditional watchmaking.
James Bond’s Rolex in Live and Let Die
Whether it’s a watch bezel serving as a circular saw (Live and Let Die, 1973) or a laser integrated into 007’s Omega watch (GoldenEye, 1995), these functions are fictional. Nevertheless, the very fact that screenwriters chose the watch as a vehicle for gadgets testifies to its particularly iconic status: an everyday object can be transformed into an extraordinary tool serving the narrative.
In short, real movements and complications give movie watches their authenticity and technical aura, while imaginary attributes created for the sake of spectacle reinforce the exceptional character of these timepieces. This duality contributes to the legend: the watch on screen is both a genuine instrument and a dream ingredient.
Must-Have References: Watch Models That Made Their Mark on the Big Screen
James Bond and His Watches: Rolex Submariner and Omega Seamaster
It’s impossible to talk about iconic movie watches without starting with James Bond. In the 1960s films, the choice fell on the Rolex Submariner Ref. 6538. Visible on Sean Connery’s wrist from Dr. No (1962), it quickly became a symbol of Bond’s style: sober, elegant, yet formidably functional. On screen, the Submariner accompanies Bond on his underwater or terrestrial adventures, never failing, reinforcing his image as an agent refined to his very fingertips.
The Rolex Submariner, an emblematic dive watch adopted by the first James Bond – Credit: Wikimedia Commons
Over the course of the films, Bond’s watches evolved. In GoldenEye (1995), Pierce Brosnan for the first time sports an Omega Seamaster Diver 300M. This choice, dictated by a partnership between the production and Omega, would revive public interest in this modern dive watch, recognizable by its blue wave-patterned dial. The gamble paid off: in the public’s eyes, Omega became « James Bond’s watch » from the 1990s onwards, giving the Seamaster 300 model a particular aura of luxury associated with espionage.
Omega Seamaster Diver 300M, Agent 007’s choice in the 1990s and 2000s – a blend of sporty refinement and military robustness – Credit: Wikimedia Commons
This transition from Rolex to Omega illustrates how cinema can influence a brand’s image. The vintage Submariner is now nicknamed the « James Bond Sub » by collectors, while the Seamaster has become inseparable from the secret agent in the contemporary imagination. These two watches, though different, both embody a form of elegant and adventurous masculine ideal.
Steve McQueen and the TAG Heuer Monaco: The Race to Legend
If James Bond propelled dive watches into the limelight, another mythical actor – Steve McQueen – brought a racing chronograph into history with the film Le Mans (1971). To match the reality of the paddocks, the actor decided to wear the same chronograph as champion Jo Siffert: the Heuer Monaco Ref. 1133B. With its square case, royal blue dial, and white counters, the Monaco had a decidedly avant-garde look for the time.
The TAG Heuer Monaco, an automatic chronograph made famous by Steve McQueen in Le Mans – Credit: Wikimedia Commons
On screen, the Monaco is omnipresent on McQueen’s wrist, even appearing on the movie poster. It quickly became inseparable from the actor’s image, to the point that the model would often be nicknamed « Monaco Steve McQueen » thereafter. Its bold design contrasted with the more conventional round chronographs of the era, which contributed to its status as a timeless icon once immortalized by McQueen.
After the film, the Heuer Monaco experienced a renewed surge in popularity. Successfully reissued by TAG Heuer, it saw the birth of special editions like the Monaco Gulf. This phenomenon underscores how much cinematic aura can give a timepiece a second lease on life: what was a pilot’s tool became a sought-after collector’s item, charged with the emotion of the film.
Special edition TAG Heuer Monaco Gulf paying homage to the colors of Le Mans – the legend lives on through limited series – Credit: Wikimedia Commons
From Space to Screen: Omega Speedmaster “Moonwatch”
While Bond and McQueen dominated land and sea, another watch conquered space: the Omega Speedmaster Professional. This chronograph is famously known as the “Moonwatch”, the watch that accompanied the Apollo astronauts to the Moon. In cinema, the film Apollo 13 (1995) shows Jim Lovell’s character (Tom Hanks) using his Speedmaster to time a manual trajectory correction – a true episode where the crucial role of the watch was highlighted.
Omega Speedmaster Professional, nicknamed « Moonwatch » after being the first watch on the Moon – Credit: Wikimedia Commons
The Speedmaster is a 42mm manual-winding chronograph, originally designed for motorsports. Its robustness earned it selection by NASA. Beyond Apollo 13, other films like First Man (2018) feature this timepiece as a true instrument panel at the service of astronauts.
Mechanically, the vintage Speedmaster was powered by the Omega Calibre 321, then by the Calibre 861/1861. In cinema, it is above all its symbolic dimension that shines through: every time it appears on screen, the viewer sees in it a reminder of an extraordinary human epic.
The Omega Speedmaster “Moonwatch” has thus become a living legend, whose value and popularity remain high. Its appearance in films reinforces its mythical status: it is not just a costume accessory, but almost a character in its own right, a symbol of self-transcendence.
Adventure and Action Watches: From Vietnam to Gotham City
Beyond these three major figures, many other films have engraved very specific watches in our memories.
In Apocalypse Now (1979), two timepieces share the screen: Captain Willard (Martin Sheen) wears a rugged Seiko 6105-8110, a Japanese watch adopted by many GIs, while Colonel Kurtz (Marlon Brando) sports a Rolex GMT-Master without a bezel. These two watches reinforce the veracity of the environment. The Seiko “Willard” has become a cult classic, and Brando’s Rolex entered legend when it was auctioned.
In a more contemporary register, the John Wick saga, where Keanu Reeves wears a Carl F. Bucherer Manero Autodate, has allowed this relatively niche brand to gain notoriety. Sometimes, the watch even serves as a plot device, as in Pulp Fiction (1994), where a family gold watch is at the center of a cult scene, illustrating that a watch’s value can be as much sentimental as functional.
In a completely different style, the science fiction thriller Aliens (1986) shows Sigourney Weaver wearing a watch with a strange and avant-garde design: the Seiko 7A28-7000, designed by Giugiaro. This model, nicknamed the “Seiko Ripley”, has become a cult piece among vintage design enthusiasts.
Finally, even the superhero genre has its favorite watches: in Batman Begins (2005), Bruce Wayne (Christian Bale) wears a Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Grande Date. This placement, subtle and appreciated by insiders, demonstrates that luxury watchmaking finds its place even in blockbusters to give characters a refinement rooted in reality.
Very high (€100,000+ for a vintage piece in good condition)
Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Ref. 2541.80/2531.80
41 mm
Quartz then Automatic
(cal. Omega 1120)
1993
James Bond (1995-2006)
Moderate (€2,000 to €4,000 depending on version and condition)
Heuer Monaco Ref. 1133B
38 mm (square)
Automatic
(Calibre 11)
1969
Le Mans (1971)
Very high (€30,000+ for a vintage; €2,000 for reissue)
Seiko 6105-8110 “Willard”
44 mm
Automatic
(cal. 6105B)
1968
Apocalypse Now (1979)
Rising (€1,000 to €2,000 for a vintage piece, modern reissue ~€1,300)
Rolex GMT-Master Ref. 1675
40 mm
Automatic
(cal. 1575)
1959
Apocalypse Now (1979)
Very high (€15,000+; Marlon Brando’s example sold for $1.95M)
Hamilton Ventura Ref. 500
32 mm (triangular)
Electric
(cal. 500)
1957
Blue Hawaii (1961), Men in Black (1997)
Affordable (€1,000 to €1,500 vintage; reissue ~€800)
Omega Speedmaster Ref. 105.012
42 mm
Manual
(cal. 321)
1965
Apollo 13 (1995), etc.
High (€8,000+ for classic Moonwatch refs.)
Price Evolution in 2025: Between Speculation and Passion
The market for collector’s watches has seen notable fluctuations, and iconic movie watches are no exception. Overall, the trend is towards appreciation: owning a model worn by a legend confers an emotional added value that translates into market value. Thus, in 2025, some of these timepieces are reaching new heights.
The Rolex Submariner “James Bond” Ref. 6538 is seeing its value skyrocket: it has become almost impossible to find one in good condition for less than €100,000. Conversely, the Omega Seamaster 300M models from the 1990s remain relatively affordable, around €3,000, although some limited editions trade above their retail price.
The TAG Heuer Monaco, on the other hand, has seen its value explode for original vintage examples. The “McQueen Monaco” now reaches several tens of thousands of euros. Conversely, modern reissues remain accessible and allow one to own a piece of the myth without breaking the bank.
The 2025 market is also marked by a trend towards speculation. However, this boom is not uniform: it primarily benefits rare pieces or those with exceptional provenance. Marlon Brando’s Rolex GMT reached a stratospheric price, while the Seiko “Willard” remains reasonable.
Finally, the value of iconic movie watches seems spared from the most extreme volatility: their value rests as much on the narrative as on the material, which ensures them a solid rating because true collectors often keep them out of passion. With global demand and limited supply, it is likely that these legendary watches will retain their value.
Buying Advice: Acquiring a Watch Seen in a Movie
For captivated enthusiasts, buying an iconic movie watch can be a dream come true. However, it is important to clearly define one’s goal: does one want the exact vintage reference or a more recent version? In the first case, one must be patient, gather a lot of information to avoid pitfalls (counterfeits, non-compliant parts, etc.), and ideally be accompanied by an expert.
If the goal is more to wear a watch « in the spirit of, » then options open up. Many brands offer reissues or visually very similar models. For example, TAG Heuer, Seiko, and Hamilton offer modern versions of their cinematic icons. These neo-vintage watches offer an excellent compromise for those who want the style and cultural reference.
Another avenue is that of recent pre-owned watches. It is possible to find an Omega Seamaster from the Pierce Brosnan era at a reasonable price. Of course, one will need to verify authenticity and general condition, but this remains more accessible than acquiring the same watch new or a collector’s edition.
It is also important to keep a few key principles in mind: always seek the advice of a connoisseur, compare serial numbers, and do not hesitate to negotiate. It is better to avoid jumping into the general frenzy immediately after a blockbuster release and let the pressure subside to buy at a more reasonable level.
Finally, one last, more personal piece of advice: buying an iconic movie watch should remain an act of passion, a pleasure. One must not lose sight of the story it tells. The important thing is to establish one’s own emotional connection with the watch – just as cinema connects us to objects through emotion. If this condition is met, the purchase will be all the more satisfying.
Conclusion
From the ocean depths explored by James Bond to the burning tracks of Le Mans, via lunar orbit, iconic movie watches take us on a journey. Bearers of technique and symbols, they embody an era, a style, an attitude. Over time, these watches have become myths in their own right, sought after by collectors and admired by enthusiasts.
In 2025, the enthusiasm for these timepieces shows no signs of waning. Each new generation of viewers discovers that behind a hero’s watch lies a world of history and know-how. Whether one acquires them or simply admires them, iconic movie watches constitute a bridge between reality and imagination. In the end, what could be more magical than telling time on a watch that once paced the adventures of our favorite heroes? Cinema brought it to life, and on the wrist of the lucky owner, the legend continues to turn.
Fondateur de JamaisVulgaire, j'aime trouver des marques novatrices, au bon rapport qualité/prix et me demander en quoi elles apportent quelque chose dans le marché de la mode masculine.
Pour bien s'habiller, il faut comprendre le vêtement, mais aussi la marque et sa stratégie.
