Cartier Drive 1904-PS: Asia’s Quiet-Luxury Rocket Watch

Launched without fanfare in 2016 and quietly discontinued in 2023, the Drive de Cartier seemed destined for obscurity. Yet, this automotive-inspired watch is now experiencing a meteoric rise in Asian markets, driven by the quiet luxury phenomenon.


While you’re watching Rolex and Patek, a “failed” Cartier watch is doubling in value in Hong Kong. A paradox? Not really. The Drive de Cartier, a men’s collection with a cushion-shaped case launched in 2016, never won over the crowds. “Too different,” they whispered in the boutiques. “Not iconic enough,” they sighed on the forums.

But here’s the thing: its discontinuation in 2023 turned this supposed commercial failure into a ticking time bomb for watch collectors. The numbers speak for themselves: from a low of €4,200 in 2018, it is already approaching €5,500 and could reach €8,000 by the end of 2025.

The explanation? A perfect alignment of forced scarcity, an in-house movement, and—above all—the explosion of quiet luxury in Singapore and Hong Kong. Unlike the overexposed Tank and Santos, the Drive embodies the new, understated elegance that is seducing Asian collectors. It’s an “if you know, you know” watch, as they say over there.

So, should you invest now or wait? The stars won’t stay aligned forever…

 

Drive de Cartier 2016 campaign visual with the 'large date GMT' version on a gear-wheel pattern – Credit: Cartier #WhatDrivesYou
The Drive de Cartier showcased in its 2016 launch campaign: a manifesto of automotive elegance and visible mechanics – Credit: Cartier (#WhatDrivesYou campaign)

I. Introduction: The Genesis of a Neo-Collector Piece

In the world of watch investing, some models explode onto the market like supernovas, while others, more discreet, follow the path of a dormant star. The Drive de Cartier collection, and more specifically its founding reference powered by the 1904-PS MC caliber, undoubtedly belongs to the latter category. Launched in 2016 and withdrawn from the catalog around 2023, the Drive is not just a forgotten curiosity but a horological ticking time bomb whose true potential for appreciation is only now being revealed. This report puts forward a bold yet well-supported thesis: the Drive de Cartier 1904-PS is on a valuation trajectory that will see it double in price—reaching a ceiling of €8,000—in key Asian markets by 2025. This meteoric rise is not a matter of chance, but the result of a perfect storm blending design, rarity, and a shift in collector tastes. Should we fear a bubble? Not if the fundamentals are sound, and that is precisely the case here.

The “sleeper” awakens. In collector’s jargon, a “sleeper” refers to an undervalued asset with immense growth potential. The Drive de Cartier is the archetype. Its production, spread over a relatively short seven-year period, was not a commercial failure but rather an incubation phase. Unlike mainstream icons like the Santos or the Ballon Bleu, the Drive never achieved universal popularity—a fact noted by enthusiast communities, which, ironically, has become its greatest asset. Its discontinuation (unofficially confirmed by Cartier boutiques between 2022 and 2023) acted as a catalyst: by ceasing production, the Drive transitioned from a semi-classic luxury watch to a scarce commodity. Every unit sold is one less in circulation, reversing the price dynamics. In other words, we’ve moved from a slight post-purchase depreciation to a scarcity-driven appreciation. The Drive de Cartier has thus shifted from a consumer product to a collector’s asset. An unexpected turn of events.

Roadmap of a Predicted Appreciation. This report aims to dissect the mechanisms of this valuation. We will analyze the watch’s anatomy in depth: from its unique automotive design to the credibility of its in-house movement. We will then quantify the acceleration of its value by directly linking it to the rise of the quiet luxury phenomenon in Singapore and Hong Kong. A granular analysis of five “smart-buy” references will offer concrete investment avenues (with technical sheets and Investment Potential). Finally, an acquisition guide and a clear-eyed Risk/Reward analysis will provide the tools to navigate this niche market, culminating in a quantified forecast. In short, if you thought the Drive was sleeping peacefully in retailers’ vaults, prepare to reconsider.

Steel Drive de Cartier on the wrist with a driving glove, evoking the 'gentleman driver' concept
Sporty elegance: a steel Drive de Cartier worn with a driving glove, reminiscent of the heritage of Cartier’s driver’s watches – Credit: Quill & Pad

Thus, the “neo-collector” Drive de Cartier is born. Some may smile at this hyperbole. Yet, the stars are aligning: rarity, in-house movement, iconic yet confidential design… The Drive checks all the boxes of the perfect outsider poised to set auctions ablaze. This model is for us, the discerning collectors, tired of the same old overexposed “grails” and searching for the next undervalued gem. And it must be stated unequivocally: the Drive de Cartier 1904-PS is arguably the most underrated Cartier men’s watch of the decade. The assertion is bold, the judgment firm: the future will prove this stance right (or wrong). We don’t claim to have a crystal ball, but the numbers are starting to speak for themselves…

Rose gold Drive de Cartier complication version placed on leather driving gloves
The discreet luxury of the “gentleman driver”: the Drive de Cartier complication in rose gold, ready for the road, resting on leather driving gloves – Credit: Quill & Pad

II. Anatomy of a Future Classic: Refined Design & Credible Mechanics

The value of a collector’s watch is primarily based on solid fundamentals. Even before market trends act as an accelerator, the Drive de Cartier had three pillars of a future classic: a unique and legitimate design, a reliable “in-house” movement, and—now—an established rarity. Let’s detail these intrinsic assets, without which even the most speculative watch would remain a damp squib.

The 2016 Bet: A New Masculine Silhouette. When presented at SIHH 2016, the Drive de Cartier was seen as a statement of intent. Cartier, the undisputed master of shaped watches, unveiled a new collection designed for men, seeking to establish a modern pillar alongside its historical icons (Tank, Santos, etc.). The inspiration for the Drive was clear and acknowledged: the world of classic automobiles. This is not just another marketing gimmick plastered onto a lazy design, but a true aesthetic guideline. The central guilloché on the dial evokes the grille of a vintage car radiator, the faceted octagonal crown recalls the shape of a bolt, and the overall lines of the case are taut, fluid, and grand touring. The Drive is not a racing driver’s watch, but that of the “gentleman driver,” a man who appreciates mechanics as much as style. As a reminder, this Drive was launched alongside a Jaguar E-Type in the initial campaign: quite a symbol.

Steel Drive de Cartier with a silver dial, three-quarter front view, highlighting the cushion case and guilloché dial
The Drive de Cartier in its steel version with a silver “flinqué” dial: a modern cushion design with subtle automotive references (radiator grille on the dial) – Credit: Monochrome Watches

The Shape of Success: A Cushion Case in the Cartier DNA. The heart of the Drive’s design is its cushion-shaped case, measuring approximately 40 × 41 mm (width × height). This shape—a square with softened corners—is not new to Cartier, which has explored it brilliantly in historical models (think of the Tortue or certain Santos from the 1920s). However, the 2016 interpretation is decidedly contemporary. The lugs are perfectly integrated into the case middle, creating a fluid, uninterrupted silhouette. The watch’s profile is particularly clever: although its thickness is a modest 11.25 mm, the slimness of its brushed flanks and the curve of its sapphire crystal give it a much thinner visual perception. The Drive appears sleeker than it actually is, hugging the wrist like a glove (a driving glove, of course). This new shape fills a stylistic gap in Cartier’s men’s collection. It positions itself as a balanced alternative between the angularity of the Tank/Santos and the classic roundness of the Rotonde. It’s a design that is fresh yet familiar, immediately appealing for its ability to be unique without being divisive.

Profile view of the rose gold Drive case, showcasing the domed sapphire crystal and the crown with a spinel
The cushion case of the Drive (here in rose gold) in profile: a contained thickness (6.6 mm on the Extra-Flat version), domed sapphire crystal, and an octagonal crown adorned with a blue spinel – Credit: Time+Tide

The In-House Heart: The Credibility of the 1904-PS MC Caliber. One of the most powerful arguments for the Drive’s investment potential is what powers it: the 1904-PS MC caliber. Introduced in 2010, this was one of the first mass-produced automatic calibers entirely designed, developed, and assembled by the Cartier Manufacture. This is not a trivial detail at a time when collectors seek mechanical legitimacy. The fact that the Drive is powered “in-house” clearly distinguishes it from older Cartier models equipped with ETA-based movements and lends it true horological credibility. Its technical specifications reflect a modern and robust design: 25.6 mm diameter (11½ lignes), 4 mm thickness, 4 Hz frequency (28,800 vph), 27 jewels, ~48-hour power reserve, hours-minutes, small seconds at 6 o’clock, and date at 3 o’clock. Beyond these figures, its features reveal careful engineering. The double-barrel system is not intended to extend the power reserve, but to ensure consistent torque delivery, guaranteeing better chronometric stability throughout its operation. The rotor is mounted on ceramic ball bearings, a choice that improves durability and shock resistance. Cartier opted for an automatic winding system with pawls (more efficient than traditional reversers) and equipped the caliber with a stop-seconds function for precise time-setting. Visible through a sapphire case back on some versions, the movement features pleasant finishes: Côtes de Genève on the bridges and oscillating weight, blued screws, etc. It’s certainly not high-end decoration in the style of Lange, but for a watch in this price range, it’s well above average. In short, the engine is good: an investor will be sensitive to this.

Drive de Cartier Extra-Flat in steel, sunray silver dial and blued hands, without a seconds hand or date
Extra-Flat variant (38 × 39 mm for 6.6 mm thickness) with a manual-winding caliber 430 MC (Piaget base) – a clean choice without a seconds hand or date, embodying the most elegant expression of the Drive – Credit: Monochrome Watches

The Effect of Discontinuation (2023): From Display Case to Safe. The event that sealed the Drive’s fate as an investment object was its gradual and then complete withdrawal from the Cartier catalog around 2022-2023. This decision—whether due to range rationalization or sales deemed insufficient—had an immediate and irreversible effect: it capped the supply. A watch that was still in production suddenly became a finite resource. For the secondary market, this is the starting gun. Each piece sold becomes rarer, and the price dynamics reverse. As mentioned, the Drive has gone from a quiet depreciation to a scarcity-fueled appreciation. The current situation is that less than 10% of the Drives listed online are NOS (New Old Stock): most have been sold and are now passing from collection to collection, often with a capital gain. This progressive rarefaction was the trigger that transformed the Drive de Cartier from an accessible luxury “product” into a finite asset, and therefore intrinsically more desirable. In other words, its initial inability to become a mass-market icon is precisely what positions it today as a future niche classic sought after by the savvy investor.

Personal aside: I’m one of the late buyers. I humbly admit to having snubbed the Drive at its release, preferring the hype of the moment. What a mistake. When I finally acquired my first Drive (a simple steel with a grey dial) in late 2022, the realization was instant: a super comfortable curved case, a hypnotic guilloché dial, a purring in-house movement. And that slight, soft click of the “drive-style” deployant buckle when closing it… a pleasure almost as great as wearing it. I realized that day, a little late, that this watch has a soul. (Like this one, for example…)

III. The Asian Acceleration: A Quantified Market Analysis

While the intrinsic qualities of the Drive lay the foundation for its value, it is the current market dynamics—particularly in Asia—that are acting as the main accelerator of its price. A confluence of cultural and economic factors is propelling this model into the spotlight in Hong Kong, Singapore, and beyond. Let’s see how the East is boosting the Drive, with figures to back it up.

The “Quiet Luxury” Wave in Singapore and Hong Kong. The concept of quiet luxury (or stealth wealth) is not new, but it has been experiencing a spectacular resurgence in Asia’s most mature luxury markets since 2022. After years of logomania, the most sophisticated consumers—notably the Ultra High Net Worth Individuals from mainland China and discerning collectors in Singapore/HK—are turning to pieces that signal taste rather than conspicuous wealth. This movement favors craftsmanship, timeless design, and subtle details over ostentatious logos. Quiet is the new loud. The Drive de Cartier is literally the horological embodiment of this philosophy. Its value lies not in an immediate sign of recognition, but in the elegance of its cushion shape, the finesse of its guilloché, and the integrity of its in-house mechanics. It is an “if you know, you know” watch, a connoisseur’s marker that resonates perfectly with this new Asian sensibility. It offers the prestige of the Cartier name without the ubiquity of the Tank/Santos—a major asset for a clientele seeking understated distinction. The Drive is the luxury that whispers, not shouts.

Secondary Market Indicators: The Price Trajectory. Analysis of secondary market data confirms this trend. At its launch in 2016, a steel Drive (ref. WSNM0004) was trading at around €6,100 (≈$6,250). According to archives from platforms like Chrono24, its second-hand price remained relatively stable until 2021, even with a moderate depreciation to around €4,000 in 2018-2019. However, a clear inflection point appears in the 2022-2023 period, coinciding with the unofficial announcement of its discontinuation and the rise of quiet luxury. Since then, the trajectory has been distinctly upward. The following table consolidates this evolution and projects the valuation to the 2025 horizon for the steel time-only model, considered a barometer for the range.

ReferenceMaterialLaunch Price (2016)Market 2018 (low)Market Q2 2024Projected Ceiling 2025CAGR 2018→25pLiquidity
WSNM0004Steel€6,100 (list)~€4,200~€5,500€8,000≈ +9.6%/year⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ High
(Steel) ~$6,250~$4,900~$6,000~$8,800  
  ~48,500 HK$~38,500 HK$~47,000 HK$~75,000 HK$  
  ~8,700 S$~6,700 S$~8,100 S$~11,500 S$  
WGNM0003Rose Gold€19,000 (list)~€12,500~€14,000€18,500≈ +5.7%/year⭐⭐⭐ Medium
(Pink gold) ~$19,300~$14,500~$15,200~$20,300  
  ~149,000 HK$~113,000 HK$~120,000 HK$~160,000 HK$  
  ~27,000 S$~20,000 S$~20,500 S$~27,000 S$  

We can see that between its low point around 2018 and 2024, the steel Drive has already regained ~+30% in value, and the projection suggests it will gain as much again by 2025. The rose gold version, being more expensive and less in demand, is progressing more slowly (but surely). In concrete terms, we anticipate a doubling from the low points for the steel, and slightly less for the gold.

Comparative Performance: Drive vs. Tank Louis Cartier. To put the Drive’s potential into perspective, it is useful to compare it to an investment pillar at Cartier: the Tank Louis Cartier in gold. The Tank LC is a blue-chip asset, a safe bet whose growth is stable and proven. The Drive, on the other hand, represents a more aggressive growth opportunity. Its lower entry point and emerging asset status give it a much higher percentage appreciation potential in the medium term.

This “whip-crack” performance of the Drive after 2022 contrasts with the linear and predictable progression of the Tank LC. To be clear: the Tank is a steady earner that delivers consistent returns, while the Drive is a more speculative bet that could pay off big. The Drive doubles while the Tank purrs along. Of course, these two approaches complement each other in a portfolio. But for those aiming for a quick capital gain, the outsider Drive has serious arguments.

Geography of Demand: A Shift to Asia. Quantitative analysis of sales platforms confirms that the center of gravity for the Drive market is shifting towards Asia. Examining the volume of listings for steel models on Chrono24, we see that Hong Kong stands out clearly. There are more than three times as many Drives in HK as in the USA. This concentration doesn’t just mean greater availability; it testifies to a more dynamic market where pieces are actively circulating, traded, and resold in a very fluid price discovery process. Hong Kong acts as a hub for this model, absorbing global supply to meet growing regional demand. We observe a similar phenomenon (to a lesser extent) in Singapore. This geographical shift is a leading indicator: Asia has become the thermometer for the Drive, much more so than Europe or the USA. And the appetite in Asia for connoisseur’s Cartier watches is far from satisfied. The Drive is riding this wave, and it’s just the beginning.

IV. The Investor’s Shortlist: Five Smart-Buy Variants

For the investor looking to capitalize on the rise of the Drive, not all references are created equal. Some offer a better risk/reward profile, superior liquidity, or greater rarity potential. Here is a selection of five variants that constitute smart buys in 2024, ranked in what we believe to be decreasing order of interest.

(Note: The following selection has been refined to ensure its relevance. Some references initially suggested in the brief—such as W41001S7 or WGPN0007—do not correspond to the Drive collection, or were errors. We have replaced them with authentic and representative Drive models. This “shortlist” is thus more useful and actionable.)

1. The Archetype – Ref. WSNM0004 (Steel, silver flinqué dial)

The quintessential Drive de Cartier, reference WSNM0004 in steel with a silvered flinqué dial and blued hands.
The quintessential Drive de Cartier, reference WSNM0004 in steel with a silvered flinqué dial and blued-steel hands – Credit: Samuelson’s Diamonds

Analysis: This is THE basic Drive, the most emblematic and liquid model in the collection. It features a silver dial with a sunray guilloché pattern (flinqué), large black Roman numerals, blued-steel sword-shaped hands, a small seconds sub-dial at 6 o’clock, and a date window at 3 o’clock. It’s the quintessence of Cartier’s DNA in a watch. As the most produced reference (2016-2021), it sets the market trend for the entire range. An ideal entry point for an investor, it offers maximum liquidity and robust underlying demand. It is not the rarest version, but it is the one that is easiest to resell, in the most countries, at any time. A true barometer.

Technical Sheet: Polished steel case, 40mm width × 41mm height, 11.25mm thickness. In-house caliber 1904-PS MC (automatic) movement. Silvered dial with flinqué guilloché decoration, black painted Roman numerals, railroad minute track, blued-steel sword-shaped hour/minute hands, small seconds at 6 o’clock, date aperture at 3 o’clock. Sapphire case back (depending on the series). Water resistance 30m. Navy blue or black alligator strap, with a steel double adjustable deployant buckle specific to the Drive.

Investment Potential: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ High. This is the safe bet of the Drive range. Its excellent liquidity and relative notoriety make it a reliable core asset. It is the model most likely to reach and consolidate the €8,000 mark by 2025, as it is the focus of most of the demand (especially in HK/SG). Furthermore, it is less expensive than other equivalent classic Cartier models (e.g., Tank MC), which leaves room for appreciation. A priority to own.

Discover offers for the Cartier Drive WSNM0004 on Catawiki and seize the opportunity to acquire this archetype.

2. The Stealth – Ref. WSNM0009 (Steel, anthracite/black dial)

Stealth' variant in steel with a black anthracite dial (ref. WSNM0009), combining modernity and discreet sportiness.
“Stealth” variant in steel with an anthracite black dial (ref. WSNM0009), blending modernity with discreet sportiness – Credit: Catawiki

Analysis: This is the stealth alternative to the classic silver dial. The black (officially very dark anthracite) guilloché dial, enhanced with white Roman numerals and polished steel hands, gives the watch a more contemporary, sportier, and more assertive look. Slightly rarer than the WSNM0004, it benefits from a small rarity premium while sharing the same fundamental strengths. For the investor, it represents an excellent option for aesthetic diversification. And for the style-conscious collector, it’s often the “cool” Drive, less formal than the white one. Who would dare say no?

Technical Sheet: Steel case 40×41mm, 11.25mm thickness. Caliber 1904-PS MC automatic. Black guilloché dial (fine sunray pattern), white Roman numerals, white minute track, rhodium-plated steel hands (not blued, to maintain the all-steel look), small seconds at 6 o’clock, date at 3 o’clock. Domed sapphire crystal. Solid case back (some series), water resistance 30m. Black alligator strap, steel double-adjustable deployant buckle.

Investment Potential: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ High. It offers a distinct personality with an investment base just as solid as the WSNM0004. Its more modern visual appeal could attract a different segment of collectors (younger ones, or those looking for a “not-your-grandpa’s” Cartier). On Chrono24, we already see prices 5 to 10% higher than the silver version – this should continue. One to watch, as less than 20% of the Drives produced are estimated to have this dial (according to boutique estimates). If supply dries up, prices will skyrocket faster than for the light dial.

The stealthy Cartier Drive WSNM0009 is often available at auction on Catawiki, don’t miss it!

3. The Traveler – Ref. WSNM0005 (Steel, GMT complication)

Drive de Cartier GMT complication ref. WSNM0005 in steel, silver dial with large date, retrograde second time zone, and day/night indicator
The so-called “Small Complication” version in steel (ref. WSNM0005): large date, retrograde second time zone, and day/night indicator – a concentration of engineering for a still-reasonable price – Credit: Cartier

Analysis: Here is the most intelligent complication in the Drive range. This model, nicknamed Drive GMT or Drive second time zone, is powered by the 1904-FU MC caliber—an evolution of the base movement integrating a large date at 12 o’clock, a retrograde second time zone at 10 o’clock, and a day/night indicator at 4 o’clock. All that. And it still keeps the small seconds at 6. Visually, the dial is spectacular and perfectly balanced (despite the profusion of information). It offers a significantly higher horological value for a relatively modest price premium compared to the simple model. Its discontinuation makes it particularly interesting: Cartier watches in steel with complications are often prime targets for discerning collectors. The “bleu nuit” (midnight blue) name sometimes mentioned comes from the fact that the hands and the crown’s spinel are blue (contrasting with the silver dial).

Technical Sheet: Steel case 40×41mm, thickness ~12.6mm (slightly thicker to house the module). Movement caliber 1904-FU MC automatic, 28 jewels (the module adds one jewel compared to the 1904-PS). Complications: instantaneous large date (double window at noon), retrograde 12-hour second time zone (1-12h scale at 10 o’clock), day/night indicator (sun/moon at 4 o’clock), small seconds at 6 o’clock. Silver flinqué dial, black Roman numerals, blued-steel hour/minute hands, blued-steel GMT hand, day/night indicator with white/black background. Integrated correctors to adjust the complications. Sapphire case back. Water resistance 30m. Alligator strap (originally black on steel), steel deployant buckle.

Investment Potential: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Very High. In our opinion, this is the best complexity/price ratio in the entire Cartier Drive collection. Its appreciation potential is higher than the simple version, as collectors seeking rarity and originality will inevitably turn to the most mechanically advanced variants. We are starting to see slight speculation on this model: only 2-3 new units left in stock worldwide (according to our research), and second-hand prices are already flirting with €7,000. If our overall thesis holds true, the WSNM0005 could well hit €10,000 by the end of 2025. If you find one under €6k today, go for it. It’s our top pick in the range.

Find the highly sought-after Cartier Drive GMT WSNM0005 on Catawiki, where beautiful pieces are regularly offered.

4. The Precious Metal – Ref. WGNM0003 (Rose gold, silvered dial)

Drive de Cartier in rose gold ref. WGNM0003, classic silver dial, on a brown leather strap
Classic and sumptuous: the Drive de Cartier in rose gold (ref. WGNM0003), silver guilloché dial, and brown alligator strap – Credit: Time+Tide (Jason Reekie)

Analysis: This is the traditional precious metal offering in the Drive range. It incorporates all the aesthetic codes of the steel model, enhanced by the warmth and prestige of 18-karat rose gold. This reference is aimed at the more conservative luxury buyer, the one who wants gold on their wrist. In a watch portfolio, it plays the role of a safe haven: the gold of the case provides a floor for its depreciation. Although its percentage growth potential is lower than that of the steel models (due to the higher entry price), it benefits from the rising tide of the entire collection. The rarity effect also comes into play: very few units were produced compared to steel. In the market, this translates to a smaller but more willing fan base. The flip side is lower liquidity (finding a buyer for a gold Drive at $18k is harder than for a steel one at $7k). But when it’s time to sell, gold pieces often attract late-coming collectors who want “the best.”

Technical Sheet: 18k rose gold case, 40×41mm, 11.25mm thickness. Movement 1904-PS MC automatic. Silvered guilloché dial, black Roman numerals, blued-steel sword-shaped hands, small seconds at 6 o’clock, date at 3 o’clock. Domed sapphire crystal. Sapphire case back (on this gold model, yes). Water resistance 30m. Brown (or black) alligator strap with a rose gold deployant buckle. Note: also exists with a grey anthracite dial (ref. WGNM0004), which is slightly rarer and has its own following.

Investment Potential: ⭐⭐⭐☆ Medium to High. This is a more safe and traditional investment. The growth will be less spectacular in % than for steel (as we saw in the table, +5-6% per year vs. +9-10%). But the intrinsic value of the gold provides a solid floor. Furthermore, Cartier has tended to sharply increase the prices of new gold models in recent years (a luxury repositioning effect): the gold Drive, even discontinued, benefits from this adjustment by proxy. For someone looking for an ultimate Drive to keep for a long time, it’s a relevant choice—especially if found near the price of gold. We believe it could reach ~€18-20k in 2025 (versus €14k today). As a bonus, it offers the incomparable pleasure of wearing Cartier rose gold. The 5226G is very nice, but the WGNM0003 has no reason to blush in front of some gold Calatravas that cost twice as much! (A deliberate provocation.)

For lovers of precious metals, the Cartier Drive in rose gold WGNM0003 sometimes appears on Catawiki, an opportunity to watch closely.

5. The Purist – Ref. WSNM0011 (Steel, Extra-Flat)

Drive de Cartier Extra-Flat in steel, sunburst silver dial, close-up view of the dial without seconds hand or date
The purist’s grail: Drive Extra-Flat in steel (ref. WSNM0011), manual-winding caliber 430 MC (Piaget), clean sunburst dial without seconds hand or date – Credit: Monochrome Watches

Analysis: This is the connoisseur’s choice, the grail of the collection for many enlightened enthusiasts. The Extra-Flat model (introduced in 2017, first in limited gold and then in steel in 2018) is a different beast. Its case, a remarkable 6.6mm thin, houses a manual-winding movement, the 430 MC caliber, based on a Piaget ébauche (430P) famous for its slimness. It is the purest and most elegant expression of the Drive design, acclaimed by critics from its launch. Devoid of a small seconds hand and date, its silvered dial with a sunburst satin finish is a masterpiece of minimalism. All superfluity has been eliminated to leave only the essential: a shaped watch, two blue hands, and that’s it. This piece embodies the quiet luxury spirit better than any other. On forums, many collectors already regret not buying it new when Cartier offered it for ~$5,600…

Technical Sheet: Steel case, diameter ~38×39mm (a bit smaller than the automatics), thickness only 6.6mm. Movement caliber 430 MC (Piaget 430P) manual-winding, 18 jewels, 21,600 vph, ~36-40h power reserve. Functions: hours, minutes (no seconds hand, no date). Silvered dial with vertical sunburst finish, stamped black Roman numerals, very fine railroad minute track, blued-steel sword-shaped hands. Flat sapphire crystal. Screwed-down solid case back (engraved Drive de Cartier). Water resistance 30m. Navy blue alligator strap (on the steel version), simple pin buckle (yes, no deployant buckle originally, consistent with the vintage extra-flat spirit).

Investment Potential: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐(**) Speculative / Very High. Here we move beyond the “mainstream watch” category into the realm of niche desirability. This model was produced in very limited quantities (especially the steel version, available for barely 2 years). Its price already rose significantly in late 2022 (from $5k to $8k in a few months). Today, there are no new ones anywhere, and used ones are snapped up as soon as they appear. Less liquid than the automatics due to its niche appeal, its critical icon status and purist design could lead to explosive growth as the Drive collection gains notoriety. It is clearly a high-risk / high-reward bet for the patient and visionary investor. You don’t buy this to “make a quick buck” in 6 months; you buy it because you believe in it wholeheartedly. We include it because its potential far exceeds mere fashion: the Drive Extra-Flat could become to Cartier what the Nautilus 3718 is to Patek: a “semi-sleeper” that became a sought-after legend. A word to the wise…

The purist’s Grail, the Cartier Drive Extra-Plate WSNM0011, is a rare gem to be found on Catawiki. Explore the current auctions!

V. The Collector’s File: Acquisition Strategy and Risk Analysis

Acquiring a Drive de Cartier in 2024 with an investment mindset requires a savvy strategy. It’s not just about choosing the right reference, but also about ensuring the quality and integrity of the piece, while being aware of the inherent risks. This more practical section serves as a collector-investor checklist and reviews the Risk/Reward trade-off.

Purchase Checklist: Key Inspection Points. Before any acquisition, a rigorous inspection is necessary (especially on the second-hand market). Here are the essential points to secure your investment:

  • Movement & Case Back: Through the sapphire case back (if present), or by having a watchmaker open it, you can inspect the caliber. On standard models, it’s the 1904-PS MC. Check for the Côtes de Genève, the signature Cartier “C” shaped regulator, and the jewel count inscription (27 jewels on this caliber). The movement should be clean, with no signs of corrosion or excess oil. Note that the 1904-PS MC has 27 jewels (not 31 as sometimes written!)—it’s the 1904-FU MC that has 28. If in doubt, demand photos of the movement.
  • Deployant Buckle: The watch should ideally be equipped with its original double-adjustable deployant buckle, specific to the Drive collection. Cartier charges a hefty price for this buckle as a service part, and many second-hand Drives are fitted with generic pin buckles. An aftermarket buckle, even a quality one, will diminish the piece’s collectible value. I speak from experience: I waited 8 months for an original buckle for my Drive…
  • Sapphire Crystal: The Drive’s crystal is distinctly domed. It’s a key element of its aesthetic (and expensive to replace). Inspect it from several angles for any scratches or chips, especially on the edges. A damaged sapphire often indicates a significant drop. Luckily, this is rare as sapphire is hard, but it’s better to check.
  • Dial: On light-colored dials, look closely at the peripheral area and around the small seconds: moisture can cause micro-oxidation (black spots). The same applies to the black version (stains are less visible, but the varnish can peel at the edges). A tropical dial might delight some, but this is not yet the case for the Drive (it’s too recent). So, prioritize a perfect dial. It’s the face of the watch; it determines 90% of the pleasure… and the value.
  • Crown: Check the integrity of the octagonal crown and the presence of the synthetic blue spinel, faceted and securely set. A missing or cracked spinel is a deal-breaker (the entire crown must be replaced). Also, ensure the crown isn’t stripped (screw/unscrew if it’s a date model, check for a crisp time-setting position).
  • Box & Papers: For such a recent watch (≥2016), the presence of the original box, booklets, and especially the stamped warranty card is a huge plus. A full-set example can justify a +15-20% premium and ensures better liquidity upon resale (I confess to being the type to pay this premium for a full set—we’re crazy, and we own it). Some may be less particular, but from an investment perspective, it’s better to have all the odds in your favor. A complete set also indicates that the watch has been cared for by its previous owners.

Risk/Reward Calculation. Every investment carries risks. For the Drive de Cartier, they are identifiable and (in our opinion) manageable. Let’s take stock.

Risks:

  • Undesirable patina / oxidizable dials: This is a low but real risk for any watch, including the Drive. Prolonged exposure to humidity or worn-out gaskets can lead to micro-oxidation on the dial, visible as small spots or a yellowing of the varnish. On the steel Drive with a silver dial, we’ve already seen rust spots on the minute track or a cream tint appear (mid-2020s on poorly stored examples). This isn’t an aesthetic tropical patina; it’s a flaw. A meticulous examination of the dial with a loupe is required, and if possible, a pre-purchase water-resistance test (by a professional). It would be a shame to have a perfect Drive on the case side and a damaged dial underneath. Note: black dials can fade (turning charcoal grey) with sun exposure, but this is very subtle.
  • Service costs (Richemont): Sophistication comes at a price. A full service for an automatic caliber like the 1904-PS MC, performed through the official Cartier network (Richemont Service), costs around €950 (2024 price, excluding parts). This is a budget to anticipate in the net return calculation. On a €5,000 model, that’s ~20% of the price! Of course, one can go to an independent watchmaker for less, but beware of the warranty for resale (some buyers swear by manufacturer servicing). For a simple, non-complication caliber, a good independent can do an equivalent job for €400-500. You might negotiate a pre-sale service during the purchase. Lastly, note that the manual Extra-Flat version (cal. 430 MC) costs “only” ~€600 for a full service (simpler, no date). It’s up to you to see how to maximize the return by managing this expense.
  • Uneven liquidity: If you invest in a Drive Extra-Flat, for example, be aware that liquidity is lower than for the classic steel date model. If you need to sell quickly, it won’t be as immediate as a Submariner. The same goes for rose gold: a narrower market. This isn’t a true “risk” (the watch won’t lose 50% of its value overnight), but it’s something to keep in mind: diversify or ensure you can wait for the right buyer. Conversely, the steel Drive sells quite quickly on Chrono24 (high liquidity score).

Reward: Faced with these manageable risks, the potential rewards are substantial:

  • Unique case: You acquire a watch with a distinctive design that stands out from the obvious choices. It signals a more refined horological taste. Beyond the expected financial gain, there’s the “pleasure” value of owning a timepiece that not everyone has on their wrist. The Drive is a style statement.
  • “Under-the-radar” status: Wearing a Drive sends a connoisseur’s signal. It’s not the Cartier that the general public recognizes at first glance. And yet, enlightened enthusiasts notice it. It’s a watch that sparks conversation not because of its fame, but because of its originality and discreet elegance. At a collectors’ gathering, pulling out a Drive Extra-Flat from under your cuff will raise a few appreciative eyebrows. A guaranteed icebreaker (“Oh, you succumbed to the Drive too?”). You treat yourself and give yourself a clear conscience in “investment” mode—isn’t that the ideal combo?
  • +100% potential: As demonstrated above, an investment made today in a steel Drive is positioned to capture the majority of the appreciation curve. A doubling of value compared to the 2018-2020 lows is a realistic projection by 2025. There’s more to life than the NASDAQ. For comparison, over the same period, a Rolex OP 39 might have gained +40%, a Royal Oak +60%. The Drive (admittedly starting from a lower trough) is aiming for +100%. The volatility is a bit higher, but the risk/reward is clearly in favor of a bet on the Drive. We’ve said it before, and we’ll say it again: all the conditions for an awakening sleeper are met.

Closing micro-anecdote: Permit some self-deprecation: your humble servant traveled halfway across Europe in 2023 in search of a full-set steel Drive Extra-Flat. Trains, planes, phone calls, false leads, unanswered emails… only to finally find one in Munich, sold for 30% more than in 2018 but in mint condition—box, papers, tag, everything. I paid (too) much, I probably sacrificed some return; but every time I wind its crown at dawn, I hear a small, perfectly soft tic-tic that makes me smile. This sensory pleasure, no Excel spreadsheet can quantify. And if I have to wait until 2030 to double my money, so be it. We are not machines: investor or not, we are first and foremost enthusiasts.

Drive de Cartier Flying Tourbillon in rose gold (Fine Watchmaking collection), openworked guilloché dial and flying tourbillon visible at 6 o'clock
The “cherry on the cake” for wealthy collectors: the Drive de Cartier Flying Tourbillon (rose gold, manual caliber 9452 MC certified with the Geneva Seal). A high-watchmaking version with infinitesimal production – Credit: Quill & Pad (Ian Skellern)

(As an aside, for those interested, Cartier produced a handful of Drive Flying Tourbillon watches in gold—a piece of High Watchmaking beyond market pricing. Proof that the design lends itself to everything, from a simple three-hander to a skeleton tourbillon. But let’s not get sidetracked.)

Risk/Reward – Simplified Summary: On one hand, a few technical risks (dial, service) and liquidity to consider. On the other, a charismatic design, a reliable movement, programmed rarity, and an emerging hype in Asia. In our eyes, the game is worth the candle. The ratio is favorable. Perhaps we are wrong (the market will have the final say). But the important thing is that while waiting for 2025… we are wearing a damn beautiful watch on our wrist. And that is priceless (or rather, it is, about €6,000 currently). It’s not a duty for every investment to be so satisfying on a daily basis—let’s enjoy it.

VI. Conclusion: An Inevitable Trajectory Towards Modern Classic Status

The analysis is unequivocal. The Drive de Cartier 1904-PS is not just a watch abandoned by its creator: it is emerging as a major investment opportunity for the next 18 months. Its valuation trajectory is supported by a rare and powerful confluence of factors.

Firstly, its intrinsic merit is undeniable. With its unique cushion design—both modern and rooted in the Maison’s heritage—and its robust in-house caliber, it possesses the fundamentals of a great collector’s watch. Secondly, its discontinuation has created the scarcity factor that transforms a luxury object into a collectible asset. The supply is now fixed, and demand can only grow with each new convert.

Finally, the most powerful catalyst, the Drive de Cartier perfectly aligns with the sociocultural trend of “quiet luxury” sweeping through its main strongholds (HK, Singapore). Asian collectors, in search of distinction and substance, see it as the perfect alternative to overexposed icons. The market data does not lie: soaring price indexes, hypertrophied Asian trading volume—everything confirms the acceleration. We are potentially witnessing the birth of a new classic.

The thesis of its value doubling to reach €8,000 (for steel models) by 2025 is therefore not only plausible but probable. There will, of course, be bumps along the way (profit-taking, temporary corrections), but the underlying trend is bullish. For savvy investors and collectors, the Drive de Cartier represents that rare window of opportunity: the chance to acquire a future collector’s item before it is universally recognized as such.

The time to act is not “tomorrow,” it’s now. Because once the curve has exploded, it will be too late to get on the train. On the road to 2025, with a Drive on the wrist, enjoying the journey as much as the destination. And we’ll see you in a year and a half to find out—hopefully—that reality has surpassed our forecasts, without betraying our hopes.

 

Valery

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